I have a box on my desk of Winchester Universal shotshells. Here’s the information presented: 20 gauge, 2-3/4 inches, 2-1/2 dr. eq., 1200 velocity, 7/8 oz., 8 shot.

Once you understand what these numbers mean, it’s easy to tell that this is a good load for shooting clays, doves, and other small upland birds.

“8 shot” refers to the shot size. The larger the number here the smaller the pellet, so 8 means the pellets are pretty small. “7/8 oz” refers to how many ounces of shot are in the 2-3/4-long shotshell. Both “2-1/2 dr. eq.” and “1200 velocity” tell you how fast the shot will travel.

Of all that information, the shot size is the most important. Let’s learn why so you’ll know how to choose the shotgun shells you need.

Shotgun Shot Size Chart

Shotgun Shell Basics Explained

A shotgun shell, or shotshell, is constructed of multiple components that contain the load you’ll shoot at your target when you pull your shotgun’s trigger.

A tube called a hull holds everything inside. These are typically plastic with a brass base nowadays, though historically they were also made of plastic or brass.

Inside is the projectile, which is either a metal slug or a large number of metal spheres called shot.

The shot sits atop a wad, which has multiple purposes. A wad cushions the shot from the rapidly expanding gasses that expel the load from your shotgun’s barrel.

The wad also prevents all of the shotshell’s components from bouncing around and even helps control the pressure curve so firing your shotgun doesn’t blow it apart.

Under the wad is the gunpowder, ignited by the shell’s primer to give the force necessary for your shot to strike and knock down your target.

Those are the basics of how shotgun shells work.

If you’re not loading your shells, then the most critical parts of the shotshell are its gauge, shot size, shot weight, and–to a lesser extent–its velocity.

Gauge

You absolutely must match your ammo’s gauge to your shotgun’s gauge.

That’s because, much like a rifle’s caliber, the measurement dictates whether or not the ammo even fits in your gun.

If you have a 12 gauge shotgun (the most common gauge), you must use 12 gauge ammo.

A 10 gauge shell won’t fit in your gun’s chamber. A 20 gauge shell is too small and may slide forward far enough in your barrel to allow you to load another 12 gauge shell, which will explode your gun if you try to shoot!

Past that, though, gauge does not have as much of an effect as some people think it does.

However, larger gauge shotshells have a larger capacity than smaller gauge shotshells. This can be taken up with more shot, a larger wad, and/or more gunpowder.

This means a 12 gauge shotgun can accept a larger variety of load weights than a 20 gauge shotgun.

Bonus: How Gauge Affects Shotgun Shell Effectiveness

A load of an ounce of 8 shot fired at 1,200 fps will hit basically the same whether it’s fired from a 12 gauge shotgun, 16 gauge shotgun, or 20 gauge shotgun.

Some people will argue that using a larger barrel diameter (such as 12 gauge) will result in a wider shot cloud, increasing your chances to hit.

Others will argue that the narrower shot cloud from a smaller bore (such as 20 gauge) means you’ll put more pellets on target, increasing the damage you do.

In practice, though, the differences are small enough that almost nobody will be able to tell.

Shot Size

Shot size is the second most important factor to consider because it strongly affects what type of targets you can shoot.

The smaller shot has more pellets per ounce. However, each pellet carries less kinetic energy, so the smaller shot won’t hit as hard as the larger shot.

Shot size is given by a number or letter. The smaller the number, the larger the pellet, the larger the animal you can shoot.

Shot is divided into two categories: Birdshot and buckshot.

This gives you an idea of what you can hunt with that specific shot size.

Birdshot

Birdshot ranges from 12 shot to 1 shot. Then, to represent pellets larger than 1 shot, you use the letters B, T, and–very rarely–F.

The more letters, the larger the shot size, so the BBB shot is larger than the BB shot.

You can calculate the pellet’s nominal diameter for the numbered birdshot sizes by subtracting the number from 0.170″.

So, each 8 shot pellet is about 0.090″ wide, though manufacturing tolerances mean that the actual size will deviate slightly.

Extremely small birdshot sizes are often called snake shot, rat shot, or even dust shot. You’ll find this type of shot loaded in handgun cartridges or .410 instead of shotshells because they are meant for short-range pest control.

Buckshot

Buckshot only uses numbers, starting at #4 and getting larger from there. Annoyingly, #4 buckshot is larger than 4 birdshot, having a diameter of 0.240″ versus 0.130″.

Note: This is why I’m not using “#” before any numbered birdshot. Remember that when talking about shot sizes, people typically say “number four birdshot.”

Buckshot sizes larger than #1 start at #0, go on to #00 buck, and so on. Rather than “number zero,” call this “ought,” “double ought,” etc.

Double-ought buckshot is the most common load with a nominal diameter of 0.330″.

Shell Length

As you can guess, shell length is the longest measurement of the hull, typically given in inches.

Longer shells have a larger internal capacity and can fit more shot and propellent for longer-ranged, harder-hitting loads.

2-3/4″ is the most common shell size and is more than adequate for clay shooting and small game hunting.

3″ shells are popular for hunting to get a bit more power for just enough of an edge to turn the occasional miss into a good hit.

3-1/2″ shells have also become common for hunting waterfowl and turkeys as they can deliver devastating impacts on large birds at long ranges.

Modern shotguns will have their maximum chamber length stamped on the barrel. You can load a 2-3/4″ shell into a shotgun with a 3-1/2″ chamber just fine, but the reverse won’t fit.

The development of 3-1/2″ shotshells effectively obsoleted 10 gauge shotguns, by the way. They both fulfill the same purpose, but a 3-1/2″ 12 gauge shotgun is more versatile than a 3″ 10 gauge shotgun.

Ounces or Shot Weight

Rather than telling you the number of pellets in a load, shotshell manufacturers give you the weight of the load.

This is partially conventional and partially because the size of each pellet can mean that small shot sizes have hundreds of pellets per ounce.

A heavier shot weight means you’ll fire more lead per shot.

This results in hitting your target with more pellets, making heavy loads popular for hunting. You don’t want to hit that bird and merely wound it!

However, thanks to Newton’s Third Law of Motion, heavier loads will also produce more recoil, so light loads are commonly used for recreational shotgunning.

Velocity

Rather than telling you how many grains of gunpowder are in each shell, ammo manufacturers tell you how fast the load travels in feet per second.

The higher the velocity of your load, the farther the shot cloud will travel before expanding. However, it’ll also produce more recoil.

Also, some high-velocity loads will “blow out” in some shotguns, meaning the pattern will open up much faster than you want.

Plus, some trap fields won’t allow you to fire loads past a certain maximum velocity.

There’s not a huge difference between a velocity of 1,150 fps and 1,250 fps in practice, so you should practice patterning your shotgun to figure out which velocity puts the most pellets on target rather than just going for the fastest load you can find.

Dram Equivalent

“Dr. eq.” means “dram equivalent,” which is an old way of approximating velocity still used by some shotgunners.

It comes from the days when shotguns were loaded with black powder. Back then, shot and powder weights were measured in drams. 16 drams equal one ounce.

Nowadays, most people don’t use drams to measure how much propellant is in a shotshell, especially since smokeless powder isn’t equivalent to black powder.

All you really need to know is that the higher the dram equivalency, the higher the velocity of the load if all other weights are equal.

When to Use What Shot Size

The takeaway from the above information is that shot size is the most important consideration when trying to figure out which shotshell to buy for what animal you’re hunting.

However, ask three hunters about the best shot size for any specific animal, and you’ll get six different answers.

Truthfully, neighboring shot sizes are generally close enough that it doesn’t matter which specific size you’re using so long as you use one in the right size range.

So, we’ll suggest a range of shot sizes for each animal.

However, there is some information to keep in mind.

Since larger pellets carry more kinetic energy, they have more momentum than smaller pellets. This means you can get a longer effective range by increasing the size of your shot.

Conversely, you’ll get more pellets by using a smaller shot size, so you’ll hit the animal with more projectiles by going with a smaller shot size. This can be advantageous if you get closer to your prey.

So, let’s talk about specific animals.

Birdshot

As the name indicates, birdshot is for the birds.

You get many small pellets, which is excellent for ensuring a hit on a small, quick animal.

Waterfowl

Waterfowl refers to birds that spend a lot of time in and around water.

They are typically hunted at medium-to-long range and can be surprisingly tough birds.

This includes coots, geese, swans, mergansers, and many duck species.

Most waterfowl hunters will reach for a medium or large birdshot load. This lets them hit those animals hard despite the range.

The most common waterfowl hunting loads use loads from 3 to 1 shot. Even a 4 shot load will cover almost any duck species, including those pesky geese.

Dedicated geese hunters prefer large shot, from 2 to T.

Small ducks at closer ranges can be hunted with shot sizes down to 6.

Upland Birds

Sometimes called landfowl, this category covers birds hunted on land rather than water.

They are generally smaller and less tough than waterfowl, so you don’t have to use as heavy a pellet.

This is good because these birds tend to be more unpredictable in their flight paths so you may want to get the improved hit chance provided by the larger pellet numbers from using smaller shot.

This covers birds from doves to pheasants and includes chukar, quail, grouse, woodcock, and partridges.

Shot sizes from 7 to 4 are great for hunting most upland birds.

Chukar and pheasants, since they are larger in size, should be hunted with 6 to 4 shot.

Doves and quail, since they are so small, can be hunted with even smaller shot, down to 9 shot, though 8 to 6 is more common.

Turkey

Though technically a landfowl, the size and toughness of a turkey mean they are their own category.

Some hunters will go as heavy as possible when hunting turkey, using BBB or T shots.

However, many hunters have taken turkey with shot as small as 6 shot, so long as you get close and make a good hit.

Shorebirds

Snipe and rails are shorebirds, flirting with the boundary between waterfowl and upland birds.

However, they are quite small birds, so 8 shot is commonly used on them.

Small Mammals

Rabbits and squirrels are sometimes hunted with a shotgun. 6 shot is the sweet spot when hunting these skittish mammals, though some hunters go smaller.

Clays

Your shot choice when shooting clays depends on your discipline, skill level, and handicap.

Generally speaking, the most common clay load uses 8 shot. 7 is also popular.

The argument for 7 shot is that it’s more likely to break the clay if you hit it with even a single pellet.

Most sporting shotgunners won’t see any difference in scores between 7 and 8, though.

Pests and Snakes

Shot used for pest control is fired at close range, typically around 10 yards or closer, so you don’t need heavy pellets to kill the animal.

This category also includes snakes, as the same shot size is often used for defense against rattlesnakes.

Honestly? Whether 10 or 12, shot size doesn’t matter. Use whichever is available.

Buckshot

Buckshot is used against medium and large mammals, which are less maneuverable than birds and rodents.

Deer

“Buckshot” gets its name from hunting male deer bucks.

Which buckshot size you should use depends on the size of the deer in your region and how close you can get to the animal.

00 buck is an excellent all-around choice. However, you can use down to #4 buck against small deer at close ranges, such as in forested mountains.

Other Large Game

Depending on local laws, buckshot can also be used against other large mammals, such as boar, bear, and coyote.

With coyote, you can use small buckshot and even large birdshot and still put the animal down. The hard part is getting close enough to the yote to hit it with a shotgun in the first place.

For bear and boar, though, you want large, heavy-hitting pellets. These can be dangerous animals, so you must ensure a single-shot kill that deals devastating tissue damage and shatters bones.

I wouldn’t use anything smaller than 00 buck against these mammals.

For Self Defense

The proper size of buckshot to defend your home is a much-debated topic.

If you don’t want to delve deep into this conversation, then 00 buckshot is an extremely common choice for self-defense.

However, with only 9 pellets in the typical 12 gauge shell, it’s possible for none of your balls to hit the target.

With smaller shotgun gauges or when over penetration is a factor, you can go down to #4 buck.

Personally, I keep the #2 buck for my 20 gauge in case I ever need to grab it to defend my home. This provides me with eighteen 0.27″ pellets per shot.

How Steel Affects Shot Effectiveness

The recommendations given above default to using a lead shot.

Because of its harm to the environment, though, many hunters use alternatives. Some, such as bismuth, are just about as heavy, so you don’t have to adjust for the different metal.

Steel, however, is the most common alternative to lead and the most different when it comes to mass.

This means you must use a larger shot size to get the same knockdown power.

A good rule of thumb for adapting to steel is to use shot two sizes larger than you would with lead.

Keep in mind that this adjustment has already been made for you when it comes to waterfowl species, as it is illegal to hunt ducks and geese with lead shot.

How to Choose the Right Shotgun Shell

Choosing the right shot size is essential when you want to hunt and knock down your prey in one shot without injuring the animal.

There seems to be an overwhelming variety of choices to make when choosing the right sporting, hunting, or self-defense load.

Thankfully, you don’t have to choose the perfect shot size. There’s a range to choose from. So if you’re hunting, say, pheasants, both number 4 shot and number 6 shot will help you achieve success.

I recommend starting with a shot size about in the middle of the suggested range and then experimenting with larger or smaller shots depending on your results.

Good luck shooting!

FAQs

How Many Pellets Are in a Shotgun Shell?

The number of pellets in a shotgun shell depends on the shot size and the amount of shot in the shell, which is given by telling you the load’s weight in ounces.

You can calculate this by finding the shot size in the above chart and multiplying it by the load’s weight.

For example, a load with 7/8 ounces of number 8 shot will contain approximately 359 pellets.

How Big Is #4 Shot?

“#4 shot” can refer to either #4 buck or number 4 birdshot.

#4 buckshot pellets are 0.24″ wide, and number 4 birdshot is 0.13″ in diameter.

What Is 12 Gauge 7.5 Shot Used For?

7.5 shot is commonly used for shooting clays, rodents, and small birds.

The post Shotgun Shot Size and Shells Explained (What to Use When) appeared first on Outdoor Empire.

Plus, most places let you pick up shed antlers outside of deer hunting season, allowing you to extend your adventures.

But where are the best places to find these sheds?

The best place to find shed antlers is where there is a high deer population, low human population, and lots of food for the deer to eat.

In the USA, you’ll have the best success shed hunting from Nevada & Utah to Illinois & Iowa. Virginia and West Virginia are suitable for people in the eastern half of the US. In Canada, people tend to have the most success in northern Alberta.

However, you can find shed antlers anywhere bucks spend their late winter and early spring.

What State Has the Best Shed Hunting?

Shed hunting is a thrilling outdoor activity that requires skill, patience, and knowledge. However, choosing the best state to go shed hunting can be a daunting task due to various factors.

One such factor is the fluctuation in deer populations, which can result in a great shed hunting spot one year being barren the next. Additionally, some states have imposed regulations that limit shed hunting during certain periods, restricting access to prime shed hunting areas.

For instance, Colorado could be one of the top states for shed hunting, but unfortunately, the activity is prohibited on public lands from January 1st to April 30th. However, if you have connections, you can still explore the state’s potential for shed hunting.

Wyoming also has similar regulations but boasts some of the best shed hunting in the US, especially if you can find private land. Here, you can discover a diverse range of antlers, including elk, moose, mule, and whitetail deer sheds.

On the other hand, if you’re looking for a state with an abundance of sheds, Nebraska is the place to be. With its vast fields of corn, soy, hay, wheat, oat, and peas, deer thrive and leave behind many antlers for you to find. Coupled with Nebraska’s low human population, you’ll have a higher chance of discovering more antlers.

Choosing the best state for shed hunting can be tricky, but with the right information, you can increase your chances of finding impressive antlers.

Where to Go Shed Hunting in Canada?

The same criteria used to pick out the best shed hunting states in the USA also apply to Canada: You want to visit areas with lots of food and little human activity.

This means that you’ll want to head farther north of the border. Most shed hunters find success in Alberta, especially the northern portion.

The province has a suitable environment for deer and other animals to thrive. Plus, the fish and game departments are relatively permissive when it comes to picking up shed antlers. You can keep and sell them without a permit so long as you didn’t gather the sheds in a protected area.

Northern Saskatchewan and northwest Ontario also have great shed hunting opportunities.

Despite having similar specs, Manitoba is the best place to live, but not visit, if you’re hoping to pick up antlers. That’s because non-residents are prohibited from possessing shed antlers. Manitoba residents don’t have any such restriction, though!

Remember that bringing wildlife parts across the border may not be worth it (or legal) for American tourists.

You’ll have to follow the regulations of your home residence and the location where you’re picking the sheds. Also, you may need to file an expensive wildlife import/export permit if you’re transporting more than a few antlers across the border.

Where Should I Look When Shed Hunting?

An excellent way to understand where you’ll find sheds is to learn where the bucks spend their time.

After all, sheds are antlers that have fallen off of male deer. If a deer doesn’t visit an area, you won’t find any sheds!

This means you’ll want to prioritize areas that provide food, water, safe bedding, and also warmth.

7 Places to Look for Shed Antlers

1. The southern-facing sides of hills and clearings are commonly-suggested areas to find sheds for a good reason. It’s often cold out when deer lose their antlers, and these locations attract deer that want to gather as much of the sun’s warmth as possible.
2. Also, check out creeks, streams, and even rivers. Deer will visit running water to stay hydrated in winter because other drinking zones are likely to freeze over.
3. Deer need food, too, and will travel to find plants that are still green even in winter. These are sometimes called late-season food sources.
   If you find such an area, then check around the edge for sheds. Deers prefer to stay at the boundary between food and safety whenever possible.
4. As for where deer bed down, you will want to find areas where deer feel safe that are also close to food and water.
5. Look in thickets, around evergreens, and in areas where trees and foliage provide protection against sight and wind.
6. It’s also a good idea to search along the trails deer travel between these areas. Antlers can get knocked off as the deer travels through areas thick with branches.
7. Similarly, fence lines can be a surprisingly effective location to find sheds. That’s because antlers can dislodge when the buck jumps over a fence or lands on the other side.

States to Avoid When Shed Hunting

Now that we’ve discussed the tips on where and how to find shed antlers successfully, let’s take a closer look at some states that may not be the best option for shed hunting.

While deer hunting is prevalent in the Sunshine State, Florida may not be the ideal location for shed hunting due to several factors. In fact, many of these reasons are common throughout most southern states, but particularly apply to Florida.

I’ve already covered the advantage of certain crop types. In a state like Florida, you won’t find nearly as many large corn and soy fields so the deer won’t be as well-fed.

And Florida is full of people.

But it gets worse!

Florida has a climate that is very friendly to deer. The mild winters mean bucks won’t spend as much time on warm southern ridges, so some of the best shed hunting tips won’t help you find shed antlers in the South.

And those warm winters mean that smaller mammals, from squirrels to coyotes, will be more active. This is bad for you because antlers are a great source of calcium and other nutrients. It’s hard to find good sheds when they get all chewed up by other little critters.

The South is also known for its denser foliage, which can make shed hunting much more annoying. Plus, all the extra underbrush will keep the antlers hidden from your view.

It can be quite challenging to find an uncrowded spot for shed hunting in southern states, as there is a limited amount of public land available.

And did I mention that shed hunting in the South can be dangerous? While venomous snakes may be hibernating during shed hunting season up north, they’ll be out and about when you’re tromping through their woods. They’re out even as early as March!

Add in the swamps and alligators, and it’s no wonder shed hunters don’t head to Florida to collect sheds.

The US’s Eastern and New England regions are also poor shed hunting areas because of their dense human populations.

The wild areas of Virginia and West Virginia are the best places to look for sheds if you’re on the East Coast.

The Best Places to Shed Hunt

The best places to find shed antlers are, annoyingly enough, far from most people.

If you’re in the United States, you’ve got a dozen states or so that are great for shed hunting.

And for our neighbors up north, you’ve got some prime locations if you’re willing to venture a bit farther north from the US-Canadian border.

You don’t have to limit yourself to these states to find sheds, though. Bucks will leave their antlers behind anywhere they spend the late winter and early spring.

So, if you have a monster buck in your backyard, that’s a good place to start looking!

The post Best Places to Shed Hunt (Where to Look and Best States) appeared first on Outdoor Empire.

Did you know that you can also make money off of your finds?

Shed antlers are used as decorations, knife handles, dog chew toys, and furniture.

Naturally, the people selling those products must get the antlers from someone. Why not be that someone?

On average, shed antlers can be sold for roughly $10 per pound. Since antlers weigh three pounds or more, that’s good pocket change with just one rack!

Where Can You Sell Shed Antlers

To sell antlers, you have to connect with people who want to buy them.

This can be easy or hard, depending on your existing hobbies.

Selling Deer Antlers Online

Perhaps the easiest way to get started with selling antlers is to put them up for sale online. There are several websites you can use that already have a large and willing audience of people seeking antlers.

If you’re willing to ship the antlers, then the two best websites are eBay and Etsy. Both are easy to use.

Etsy

I’ve sold products on Etsy before! Before you’re ready to sell, you’ll have to sign up with the website and connect some financial information to pay fees and get paid.

Etsy has a listing fee for every item you sell, though it’ll cost you less than a quarter for a four-month listing. They also have transaction fees, roughly half the amount eBay charges.

eBay

eBay is free to use until you sell your antlers. Then they’ll charge a moderate fee based on the sale price.

Both websites will track your sales so you can accurately handle your taxes.

Once you’re notified of the sale with a *cha-ching!* noise, you’ll have to package and ship the antlers. Don’t worry. That’s easy, too.

Local Pick-up Websites

If you don’t want to go through the hassle of packing and shipping your antlers, then Craigslist and Facebook Marketplace are good resources for selling to people within driving distance.

You’ll probably have less competition this way, too.

Your own website or social media accounts

Another option is to use a platform like WordPress to host your website.

This lets you avoid paying fees to eBay or Etsy. However, you’ll have to drive traffic to that website yourself, and that’s not easy!

You can also use social media, such as Facebook groups and hunting forums, to connect with potential buyers.

For example, I’ve seen antlers for sale on Hunt Talk’s classifieds forum.

Selling Deer Antlers in Person

Of course, you can make money selling antlers the old-fashioned way: By making social connections with people interested in buying antlers.

This can take many different forms.

As a hunter, you’ll probably meet people with knife-making as a hobby. They might be interested in buying antlers.

Historical reenactors often need antlers to make their period-accurate products, especially people engaged in “living history” because they demonstrate old crafting skills to the public.

I’ve also seen tables of antlers for sale at gun and knife shows.

You can also connect with companies that use antlers for making rustic furniture and offer to supply them with antlers. They tend to be more interested in bulk sheds than fancy antlers.

How Shed Antlers Are Valued

How much shed antlers are worth depends on the species, condition, color, and how much you’re selling.

Generally speaking, the larger the animal, the more valuable the shed.

Moose antlers are worth the most, followed by elk, caribou, then mule deer. Whitetail antlers tend to be worth the least.

However, this also depends on whether that species is common in your area. What’s common for you may be rare for a buyer in another part of the country!

Darker coloration tends to bring in more money. That’s because lighter antlers have faded from the elements. A darker antler is both fresher and tougher.

Somewhat faded sheds tend to be labeled Hard White. Fully faded antlers are called Chalk antlers.

And, naturally, perfect antlers will be worth more than ones with evident damage, such as chips, missing tines, and bite marks.

This is why some people use a 5-step grading system: Grade A Brown, Grade B Brown, Grade A Hard White, Grade B Hard White, and Grade C Chalk.

Symmetrical sheds are worth more, but only when sold as a rack.

Larger antlers are also worth more, of course. A large, symmetrical rack of brown moose antlers can sell for a grand or more!

Finally, whether you’re selling in bulk as a supplier or selling retail to a consumer will affect the price.

These factors make it difficult to convey how much any particular shed will sell for accurately. However, here are some guidelines:

• Whitetail Deer: $6 to $18 per pound
• Mule Deer: $7 to $20 per pound
• Elk: $7 to $16 per pound
• Caribou: $7 to $20 per pound
• Moose: $6 to $15 per pound

(Though the above numbers make deer antlers look like they’re worth more than moose antlers, deer sheds are much lighter than moose sheds, so the larger species are worth more in the end.)

A Caution Regarding Antler Selling Legality

As with any animal product or any business endeavor, there are legal restrictions you may have to follow.

Some states have laws regulating how you can harvest sheds and whether or not you can sell them. Some states don’t.

Look up your local fish & game department’s regulations to learn if you can even go shed hunting, let alone sell the antlers for a profit.

For example, Missouri requires you to record detailed information about every antler sold and identify who purchased them.

Speaking of profits, the government will want its due. Make sure to record each transaction so you can pay the tax man his money.

Staying on the side of the law will help both you and the deer enjoy their antlers for generations to come.

Conclusion

Can you make money selling deer antlers?

Yes, though it’s not a get-rich-quick scheme.

Anybody who can hike can make a few dollars finding and selling antlers.

Making an income with shed antlers requires just as much work as any other occupation, though.

The post How Much Shed Antlers Are Worth & How to Make Money on Them appeared first on Outdoor Empire.

However, regular hunting requires certain skills and equipment. And you’re limited to specific hunting seasons. Plus, you have to pay for licenses and fees, and…

What if I told you there’s another type of hunting that just requires you to go into the woods armed with nothing but your wits and some sturdy footwear?

Shed hunting, also called antler gathering, is a “hunting” method that’s been taking off in recent years. It’s fun, challenging, and free. All you need is some dedication and knowledge about where to find sheds. They are typically spotted in and around places where the deer bed down or where they eat and drink. You don’t need any special gear to gather them, just some hiking boots and a good set of binoculars.

Let’s look at what goes into this sport so you can go from beginner shed hunter to expert in just a few hunts.

What is Shed Hunting?

The word “shed” can be used as a noun to refer to an animal part that’s fallen off the animal, whether it’s a snake’s skin, your dog’s winter coat, or a deer’s antlers.

So, when most people say they are going shed hunting, they’re telling you about their plans to search for discarded deer antlers.

That’s why some people refer to this activity as antler gathering. The word “hunt” implies more adventure, though. And some people call it bone-picking!

Any animal that sheds its antlers can be the subject of this activity, not just deer. Some people are lucky enough to find elk or even moose antlers!

Why Go Shed Hunting?

People can go shed hunting for a variety of reasons.

For some people, it’s a way to hunt deer without dealing with the expense or legal hurdles of actually hunting deer.

Plus, you can pay attention to where you’re finding antlers to learn the animal’s behavior so you can be more successful with a traditional hunt in the fall.

Other people find it to be an enjoyable hobby. It encourages you to head outside. And finding a high-quality set of shed deer antlers is satisfying.

There can be an economic purpose, too.

An antler makes excellent material for everything from knife handles to jewelry to chandeliers. This is great for craftsmen and DIY enthusiasts.

But deer antlers are also worth money.

A good set of whitetail antlers can sell for over $10 a pound. Some people make hundreds of dollars, or more, selling shed antlers to crafters and rustic furniture manufacturers.

Don’t expect shed hunting to be a get-rich-quick scheme, though. Finding enough antlers to make the big bucks takes a lot of time and effort!

Does Shed Hunting Hurt Deer?

A good question is whether hunting for shed antlers can harm the animals.

Well, antler shedding is a natural part of a deer’s life. They grow and then fall off every year. You won’t physically harm an animal by picking up its shed antlers.

However, shed hunters can disturb deer who are just trying to survive the harsh winter. Deer feel stressed when they’re disturbed by large numbers of shed hunters. They’ll expend precious calories trying to get away.

If repeated, this can reduce the animal’s chances of surviving the winter.

That’s why some states have limited antler gathering seasons. It’s also possible your state can shut down shed hunting across the state to help reduce the stress experienced by wintering animals.

Pay attention to your local laws when you go shed hunting and, whenever possible, avoid disturbing wildlife.

How to Start Shed Hunting: Beginner Skills

Antler gathering is the easiest possible way to go hunting.

At its easiest, you go for a hike and keep your eyes open for lost antlers. But you won’t find many if you stay close to the trail.

Put on some good hunting boots and grab a hunting backpack and prepare to go off the beaten path. You’ll find antlers where the deer, caribou, or elk spend their time, and these animals do not like to hang out around people.

This means you should look for feeding areas, bedding areas, drinking zones, and frequently used travel corridors.

But first, let’s look at when antlers are even available.

When Should You Look for Antlers?

While it’s theoretically possible to find shed antlers any time of the year, they degrade over time and are chewed up for their protein content. This means you should look for them when they’re freshly fallen.

Antlers are grown so the male animal can engage in mating behaviors. Once the rut is over, those antlers are excess weight so they fall off and a new pair grows.

The specific time when the animal starts to shed its antlers depends on the species and your part of the world.

Generally, though, antlers start to fall off in December and can continue into April. February and March are generally considered to be the two best shed hunting months.

Earlier is better for finding higher-quality antlers. They’ll have less time to be damaged by weather and other animals.

Later in the season is better for sheer volume. More deer will have lost their antlers so it’s easier to find some. If you’re new to shed hunting, I’d recommend starting later for this reason. It’s frustrating to tromp all over the forest and not find a single antler. You’ll still find good antlers from deer who delay dropping their rack, even late in the season.

However, if you’re in an area where the woods will be crowded with other bone pickers, you’ll want to start your search earlier in the season to avoid competition.

Where Do You Find Shed Antlers?

Deer love places where tree cover meets wide open areas. This lets them keep an eye out for predators as they eat or drink. This environment also lets them swiftly escape into the safety of the woods.

But they won’t hang out in an open field just because. They have needs to be fulfilled: food, water, and shelter.

Food sources are scarce in winter, and deer will search for as many food remnants as they can get.

Related: Best Places to Shed Hunt (Where to Look and Best States)

Crops such as soy and beans are frequent feeding grounds for deer. Corn is even better. Deer love corn and any stalks left over can help knock off old antlers.

Later in the season, though, look for areas of new greenery. Deer will snack on the freshest greens they can find when winter starts to give way to spring.

Hydration is necessary at all times of the year so make sure to check out all watering holes for freshly-dropped sheds.

Deer also spend a lot of time sheltered down in their bedding areas. Be careful when investigating known beds, though, since you don’t want to stress out the animal and force it to relocate.

What connects food, water, and shelter?

Travel corridors!

It’s worth finding need zones even if you don’t see any shed antlers because this lets you find the trails deer will make from point A to point B and back.

Follow these trails and you may find where a low-hanging branch has knocked the perfect rack off a buck.

How to Spot Fallen Antlers

Just like the deer that bears them for part of the year, antlers can be surprisingly tricky to spot.

They’re brownish or whitish objects found in nature, which is full of brownish and whitish objects.

Training your eye for spotting antlers in the woods takes a while. A big help is not actually to look for antlers.

Instead, look for specific antler parts.

Keep an eye out for tines. It can be easier to recognize a point instead of a whole antler, especially when there’s just a little nub sticking out of the snow.

Also, watch for the types of curves antlers take. An antler may be buried tine-down in the ground, tricking your brain if you’re trying to spot a whole antler. But that distinctively textured arch can draw the eye if you’re looking for a part of the antler, not the whole.

Binoculars can be helpful in your search so you can identify whether that bone-white object across the creek is an antler or something not worth your time. You can also use optics to glass a field for antlers.

And some people recommend going shed hunting during prime deer hunting time. The low morning sun can help cause an antler’s tines to pop out amongst its drab surroundings.

Once you’ve found one antler, chances are the other half of its set is nearby. Antlers come in pairs, after all. Stop where you’ve found the shed and look in a slow 360 degrees around you.

If you can, identify the deer’s direction and search in both directions. You may have found the first shed antler or the second one.

And if you can’t find that antler’s mate?

Well, sometimes a deer loses one antler and keeps the other one around for a day or two.

Tips to Help You Become a Better Shed Hunter

You must get out into the wild to become the best shed hunter. There’s nothing like real-world experience for learning the intricacies of antler gathering, especially since animal behavior varies by location.

However, you can boost your knowledge by learning from other shed hunters’ experiences.

Tip #1 – Look Where Deer Jump

For example, a good bone picker will look over the land and take note of any features that will make a deer jump.

Rough terrain, fences, creeks, and anything that causes deer to leap or stumble can be the perfect spot to check for antlers. The impact can jostle antlers and cause them to fall off.

Tip #2 – Look Where It’s Warm in the Morning

Deer often prioritize warm areas in the morning to help fight off the chill of the night. This means the savvy shed hunter will look to the south and east of large geographical features.

Southern slopes tend to be excellent sources of sheds.

Tip #3 – Look From Up High

Speaking of high areas, don’t be afraid to climb boulders to take advantage of the height.

Being farther up lets you glass your surroundings better. You may spot a shed that you’d miss right next to you!

And, unlike when hunting animals, you don’t have to worry about spooking your quarry by being too visible.

Tip #4 – Map What You Find

If you’re serious about shed hunting, you will want to track everything you find, from bedding areas to individual sheds. This will allow you to build up a body of knowledge that you can reference in regard to the movements of deer in your area.

You can do this manually with a map or GPS unit and notebook. Or take advantage of a hiking or hunting app on your smartphone.

This will help make your antler gathering trips more and more successful in succeeding years.

Plus, with enough tracking, you can identify individual bucks and catalog their development.

Deer are animals of habit. Use this to your advantage.

Tip #5 – Train Your Dog to Shed Hunt

Speaking of animals, dogs can be trained to sniff out and recover antlers.

You’ll want to start training them when they’re young. Partly to teach them that antlers aren’t chew toys!

Many professional hunting dog trainers can teach your canine this skill. It’s one they can learn alongside other hunting skills, too.

Tip #6 – Wear Soft Soles

Finally, I recommend wearing footwear with a thinner than usual sole when shed hunting.

You won’t need a thick sole to handle the heavy weight of carrying out a deer carcass. Instead, you want to be able to feel what’s under your feet.

This is because sheds can be surprisingly hard to see. However, they do not feel like a stick or rock when you step on them. More than one shed hunter has found great antlers with their feet instead of their eyes.

Conclusion

All the gear you need to go shed hunting is the same type of clothing you’d use for a hike.

Add a good backpack, a pair of binoculars, and a phone or GPS, and you’re as well kitted out as a bone picker can be, especially if you have your trusty dog by your side.

Shed hunting is a fun and rewarding hobby. Get out there and you’ll find the perfect rack lying there, just waiting for you!

FAQs

Can You Make Money by Shed Hunting?

It is possible to make money shed hunting but it requires a lot of time, effort, and luck.

Antlers can be sold on eBay and Etsy. Also, some companies advertise online when they are buying antlers.

Is Shed Hunting Hard?

Shed hunting is easier than usual hunting but is harder than hiking, though not by much.

Are Shed Traps a Good Idea?

Shed traps are a bad idea. They are designed to catch a deer’s loose rack and pull it off. However, bucks can get stuck in a shed trap before their antlers are ready to fall off and they can injure themselves as they try to escape.

The post How To Shed Hunt: A Complete Guide With Tips appeared first on Outdoor Empire.

You might expect me to delve deep into how one animal is a predator and one is a prey and how that affects their behavior to make them different.

Actually, the main difference is their anatomy.

Deer are lean, with thin fur, and easily-hit hearts. You can pass a bullet or arrow through them at an angle to hit several vital organs. They also bleed a lot.

Bears, on the other hand, are filled with fat and are covered in thick fur. It’s harder to get good penetration. They’re also notorious for leaving a poor blood trail.

So, some good shot angles at a deer are a horrible idea when you aim at a bear.

The best shot angle for a black bear is a broadside double-lung shot. This applies to both rifle hunters and bow hunters. That’s not the only shot you can take, but it is the safest.

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Good Black Bear Kill Zones

Bears have thick, loose hides, varying amounts of fat, and thick, shaggy fur. This makes it hard to conclusively identify a bear’s anatomy when you’re out in the woods.

They also have thick bones and dense muscles, which reduces your projectile penetration, whether a bullet or a broadhead.

No matter the type of large game you’re hunting, your goal is always to deliver a singular strike to the largest number of vital organs you can devastate at once.

So, you want to hit the bear with a shot against the narrowest portion of its body, aiming to devastate one or more vital organs.

1. Double Lung Shot: Behind the Shoulder

With black bears, this means going for their lungs with a broadside shot.

If you can get a bullet or arrow to penetrate both lungs and then exit through the bear’s far side, you’ll be in a great position to kill the bear and be able to track it down.

Having both an entrance and an exit wound will increase the size of the blood trail you have to track. Additionally, hitting both lungs will ensure the bear can’t run far.

The lungs are comparatively large on a bear. This is part of why such a shot is recommended.

Another reason is the proximity of other vital organs to the lungs.

A bear’s heart is just below its lungs. Though that organ is hard to aim for normally, it being close means you have a larger margin of error when aiming for the lungs.

The liver and front of the gut are also right next to the lungs. Though a gut shot is not ideal, putting an arrow through a bear’s liver is better than barely penetrating the animal’s thick shoulder.

When taking a broadside shot to a bear’s lungs, the main consideration is to wait for just the right part of their stride.

You want to take the shot when the bear’s front leg is far forward. That’s because the upper leg and shoulder have a lot of dense muscle and can otherwise block a shot from penetrating the lungs.

You can find this area by observing the bear as it walks. Find the rearmost area of its shoulder (with the leg straight down) and aim about six inches rearward.

With perfect aim, this will put your projectile in the middle of the bear’s lungs, ensuring a quick kill.

2. Broadside Shot: Middle of the Middle

A phrase most commonly used by Canadian hunting guides is to aim for the “middle of the middle” of the bear.

This puts your sights farther behind the shoulder, reducing your chances of striking the muscles without getting through to the lungs.

However, aiming for this point is not recommended by some hunters for two reasons:

1. This puts your aim at the rear of the lungs, lowering your chances of a double-lung hit and increasing your chances of a gut shot.

2. It’s confusing! Where exactly is the middle of the middle of a bear? The answer changes as the bear moves and angles toward or away from you.

However, if the bear is perfectly perpendicular or broadside to you, then you can identify the middle area of the bear as being between its legs. Then aim for about six inches forward of the point halfway from one leg to the other.

This isn’t exactly the middle of the middle but it’ll get you more into the lungs for a better shot.

3. High Shoulder: Break Their Bones

Another tactic by some rifle hunters is to purposefully aim for the shoulder.

There is a lot of blood flow through this area. If your rifle is powerful enough, you can penetrate through these blood vessels and pass your bullet through both lungs.

This works best in a quartering-toward shot, so you have the angle for the bullet to hit the shoulder and lungs.

This does require a bullet with greater than average mass, though.

For example, I would feel comfortable hunting a black bear with my 6.5 Grendel rifle, but only with a broadside shot.

However, with my .45-70 Government Marlin 1895 and a hard cast 500-grain bullet? I’d feel comfortable taking the high-shoulder shot.

Not with the lighter 350-gr bullets, though.

Another reason to take the high shoulder shot is to shatter the shoulder bone.

The thought here is that doing so immobilizes the bear. This prevents it from running away and causes a large amount of blood loss, making recovery easy.

Shattering the shoulder bone also means the bear cannot attack you in reprisal.

However, this is more of a brown bear hunting technique, not a black bear technique. Black bears are not nearly as likely to attack humans.

Note: If you’re an archer, never aim for the shoulder!

4. Facing Presentation: Square Shot to the Sternum

Another rifle-only place to shoot a black bear is to put a bullet into its heart through its sternum as it faces you.

Bear hearts are lower than you think. To complicate matters, a bear has a lot of loose skin and fur under its chest so if you aim too low you won’t cause any real damage.

However, sometimes a bear will notice something odd and stand up to try to see or smell you better.

This gives you a nearly perfect shot at its heart.

Its lungs will be between its shoulder and elbows and its heart just a bit above its elbows.

Aim at the bear’s midline above its elbows, but below the middle of its bicep, and you’ll break through its sternum and into its heart.

I wouldn’t take a sternum shot with the bear on all fours, though.

Black Bear Angles and Shot Placements to Avoid (Most of the Time)

Now that we’ve covered the best angles and places to shoot a bear, let’s go over some places that seem tempting but are a bad idea to aim at when hunting a black bear.

5. Quartering Shots

If you’re an archer, then it’s a bad idea to aim at a black bear that’s quartering away from you. If you have a particularly heavy arrow, then you may be able to hit both lungs. However, you’ll likely fail to pass through and cause an exit wound, reducing the blood trail.

A rifle hunter can take a quartering-away shot but it’s not as sure a shot as the good ol’ broadside double-lung hit.

A bow hunter should never take a quartering-toward shot. The muscles are too thick and the bones too big to guarantee you’ll be able to penetrate through to both lungs.

6. Headshots

Bears have large heads. This means that it’s easy to shatter their skull and lethally damage their brain, right?

Not so fast.

Whether black or brown, any bear has an excessively thick skull.

I know a hunter who took a shot at a bear that was facing directly toward him at close range. It was an easy headshot.

He pulled the trigger and the bear charged. His second shot broke the bear’s shoulder, causing it to stumble. He put his third bullet through the bear’s lungs.

Once he started cleaning the bear, he investigated his entry wounds to see why the headshot didn’t knock the bear down.

He found that the bullet had struck the bear in the forehead, directly in line with the brain. Then it curved over the skull through the fat layer, passed along the neck, and exited over the bear’s left shoulder bone.

Don’t try to headshot a bear. Take out its lungs or shoulder.

Arrow and Bullet Construction Considerations

Because bears are tougher than deer, you don’t want to use the same projectile against both animals.

You want to prioritize penetration over expansion when choosing your weapon for bear hunting. Black bears are smaller and lighter than brown bears, but because of their tough anatomy, it’s still a good idea to err on the side of penetration.

For Rifle Hunters

Generally, you want to use a heavy bullet for the caliber. More mass means more penetration, even if you’re using hollow point bullets.

And you can use hollow points against black bears. However, remember that HP hunting bullets will reduce the angles you can use to put down a bear confidently.

Controlled expansion hunting bullets are great for black bear hunting as they let you take both broadside shots and quartering-away shots.

Maximum penetration bullets, however, let you shoot through the shoulder and into the lungs. Examples include hard-cast lead and all-copper bullets that don’t have petal cuts.

These are sometimes called “dangerous game” loads.

For Bow Hunters

If you’re hunting a black bear with a bow and arrow, you want to maximize penetration.

Use the heaviest arrows you can for your bow’s draw weight and length to get as much mass behind the arrowhead as possible.

Also, use a fixed broadhead instead of an expanding mechanical broadhead.

A black bear’s thick fur can gunk up a mechanical broadhead’s works and prevent it from swinging out the blades properly. This will cause you to lose much killing power, potentially letting the bear live.

Or allow it to escape and then die slowly, far from where you’ll give up even after you search for a tiny blood trail into the wee hours of the morning.

Where to Shoot a Bear in Self Defense

Circumstances are different when a bear is charging you.

Even if you’re not bear hunting, you may find yourself facing down a hungry or irate bear.

These animals can learn that gunshots mean dead deer. So what if you’re between them and having that deer carcass as dinner? Everyone enjoys an appetizer.

What are usually good targets when hunting bears, the lungs and heart, are a poor choice when you have to stop a bear in a matter of seconds. That’s because even a heart shot won’t drop a big bear.

And your priority during an attack is to stop the bear from moving toward you.

Generally, a bear charges straight at its prey, whether it’s hunting or trying to defend itself.

There are two places you can shoot a bear to get it to stop moving: the nervous system and the shoulders.

The best way to neutralize a bear is to kill it instantly and the only way to do so is to deliver a bullet into its skull.

I’ve already covered why it’s a bad idea to go for a headshot, but there is a difference when the bear is looking straight at you:

Its nose hides an opening to its brain covered by cartilage, not bone.

A bear’s nose is a tiny target that bounces up and down as it comes at you, but this is generally regarded as the best place to aim to put down a bear.

Another option is to break its shoulder so it can no longer run toward you. This is also a hard target against a charging bear.

Your best chance to defend against a bear attack with a firearm is to use highly-penetrating ammo and lots of it. Take aimed shots but get them out as quickly as possible.

10mm Glocks are common in Alaska because they can be worn in a chest harness. When drawn, you have 15 or more rounds of 220-gr hard cast lead to throw at the aggravated beast.

Even if you don’t hit the bear’s nose, enough lead will injure it to dissuade it from continuing the attack or break a bone and prevent it from moving toward you.

Semi-automatic hunting rifles and shotguns loaded with slugs also make great bear-defense firearms.

And if you’re ever deer hunting in bear country, never set your rifle outside of arm’s reach when cleaning a deer.

Conclusion

A black bear is a mighty predator but it’s no match for you.

With a good projectile and smart shot placement, you can put down your dream bear with a single shot.

Your best chances are waiting for it to go broadside and to take a step forward so you have a direct line through both lungs.

Have patience and you, too, can snack on bear sausage and show off your new bear rug!

Related: Where To Shoot A Deer: Kill Zone Shot Placements with Graphics

Bear Shot Placement FAQs

Where Do You Aim at a Charging Bear?

The best place to aim at a charging bear is its nose, and the second place is its shoulder. Putting a bullet through its nose, into its brain, will kill it. Whereas shattering the shoulder blade will immobilize the bear.

How Far Will a Bear Run after Being Shot?

A black bear can easily run at over thirty miles per hour. It’ll likely drop within fifty to one hundred fifty yards with a double lung shot. But with a less lethal shot, a black bear can travel for miles before dying.

Where Do You Shoot a Bear with a Bow from a Tree Stand?

The best area to place an arrow is through one or both lungs. Aim behind its leg, to the side of its spine, and you can angle that arrow through a lung and into its lower chest, potentially striking the heart.

Can You Shoot a Bear in the Head?

Thick bones protect a black bear’s brain and spine. It’s recommended to aim at the lungs instead.

The post Where to Shoot a Black Bear: 6 Shot Placements with Graphics appeared first on Outdoor Empire.

6.5 Creedmoor is an effective cartridge for a rifle that can touch targets hundreds of yards away, whether a deer or paper target. However, it’s not the cheapest round to shoot which may lead one to consider reloading. But understanding the true cost of reloading 6.5 Creedmoor ammo might surprise you.

If you’re lucky, you may find soft budget points for $20 per box of 20 cartridges. But you’re going to spend $30, $40, or even more for a box of good ammo!

And we don’t even want to talk about precision match-grade ammo.

Loading your own seems like an easy way to save money. But is this really the case?

Yes.

Reloading 6.5 Creedmoor will save you money whether you’re hunting or making 1,000-yard shots at the range. The cost is about even when you’re plinking.

Let’s look at what goes into reloading this exceptional cartridge so you can see if the savings are worthwhile for you.

How Much Does Reloading 6.5 Creedmoor Cost?

6.5 Creedmoor is like any other necked rifle cartridge, which means there are only a few components you need to load a case:

• Bullet
• Powder
• Primer
• Case

Bullet selection is essential when reloading because it affects case capacity, how much powder is required to attain the desired velocity, your shot’s terminal ballistics, etc.

But for our purposes, we only need to know how much a single 6.5 Creedmoor bullet costs. This is so we can calculate your total cost per round, which is an excellent way of comparing reloaded and factory ammo.

Most .264/6.5 bullets now cost around $40 for a box of 100. And they often cost more for higher-quality bullets.

We’ll use $0.40 as a generic price for now, though we’ll go over several more specific loadings later.

To push that bullet, we need some powder. 6.5 Creedmoor likes medium burn rate powders, so we’ll use a pound of Hornady Varget in this calculation.

At the time of writing, that powder is $54.99.

The powder charge depends on many factors but ranges from 32 to 42 grains, so we’ll use 37 grains in our generic load.

To ignite that powder, we’ll need a primer.

Whether you use a large rifle primer or a small rifle primer depends on the case. But both types are the same price, starting at $5 per 100 primers.

So, we have a $0.05 primer, $0.29 worth of powder, and a $0.40 bullet to cap it off. Our generic load costs $0.74 per round.

Not bad!

That’s just under $15 for a box of 20 rounds, which is an excellent deal for a hunting or target load.

However, this presumes you’re reloading used cases. New 6.5 Creedmoor brass will set you back anywhere from $0.33 to $1.20 each.

How Much Money Do You Save Reloading 6.5 Creedmoor?

If you’re using new brass, then you don’t save anything the first time you load that case when you’re making plinking or hunting loads.

If you’re making precision target loads, however, you’re still coming out ahead on your first load.

Medium-quality precision cartridges will set you back $2 or more per shot when you buy factory ammo and you can make them for $1.93!

Once you’ve started reloading used cases, the price drops astronomically.

You can typically reload 6.5 Creedmoor about 6 to 9 times before the neck starts to split or the primer pocket loosens, depending on how much powder you use and whether or not you anneal the case.

This means that $1.16 new brass will cost you about $0.19 per reload. That generic load now costs you $0.93 or less.

The cheapest hunting load I found costs you $1.50. And factory match ammo starts at $2.

So, you can easily save $0.50 – $1 per shot when you reload 6.5 Creedmoor. I call that worthwhile.

The savings only gets better when you compare your hand-tailored reloads with high-quality match ammo.

What About the Reloading Equipment?

Of course, the costs above only take into account an individual round’s cost.

You need a reloading press, die set, and more equipment to start loading that first round.

This can easily cost you $600.

However, if you’re using this equipment to load match ammo, you will save $1 per shot or more.

Since a 6.5 Creedmoor barrel lasts 2,000 rounds or more before needing to be rebarreled, you’ll save that $600 and then save enough money for a new rifle by the time your old one is shot out if you reload instead of buying factory 6.5 ammo.

Comparing Reloaded 6.5 Creedmoor with Factory Ammo

Now let’s compare reloading and buying factory ammo using three types of loads:

1. Plinking
2. Hunting
3. Precision target shooting

To do this, I’m using components sourced from Sportsman’s Warehouse. Compared with their competitors, I’ve found them to more consistently have reloading components in stock whenever I visit.

For factory ammo, we’ll use Sellier & Bellot as the cheap plinking ammo, Hornady American Whitetail for hunting, and Hornady Match ELD as the target shooting option.

These are all quality yet inexpensive choices.

For reloading, let’s use Speer Hot-Cor, Hornady InterLock, and Hornady ELD bullets.

The powder will remain Varget, and we’ll use CCI #200 Large Rifle Primers in Lapua cases.

The reloaded cost per round with a reused case is only for the bullet, powder, and primer. The case’s price isn’t included.

*Prices current as of spring 2023

Conclusion: Is It Worth Reloading 6.5 Creedmoor vs. Factory Ammo?

There are two more factors that can go into whether it’s worthwhile to reload 6.5 Creedmoor and both still favor reloading:

• The ability to tailor loads to your rifle
• The time spent on reloading

Due to manufacturing tolerances, every rifle is unique ballistically.

Unless you get super lucky, no factory load will be able to match the tight groups you can get when you’ve dialed in a great hand load.

As for the time you spend at the reloading bench, even if you’re a slow reloader who only gets 100 rounds done in an hour, you’re still saving $50, $100, or more per hour.

I wish I made $100 per hour!

So, go ahead and reload 6.5 Creedmoor.

You’ll get tighter groups and save money at the same time.

The post The True Cost of Reloading 6.5 Creedmoor Ammo (Worth It?) appeared first on Outdoor Empire.

There are many ways to hunt coyotes, from calling them to stalking them at night. But what’s the best gun to use so you will humanely and effectively put down a yote with one shot?

The most popular and best caliber for hunting coyotes is .22, especially .223 Remington and .22-250 Remington. .243 Winchester is the perfect long-range coyote hunting round. The .357 SIG is a coyote-capable handgun round and the .17 HMR is the best rimfire cartridge for short-range coyote hunting.

Let’s go over why these cartridges are so popular, then delve into more options.

Top 5 Best Coyote Hunting Cartridges

1. Overall Best Cartridge for Hunting Coyotes: .223 Remington
2. Best High-Velocity Cartridge for Hunting Coyotes: .22-250 Remington
3. Best Long Range Coyote Hunting Cartridge: .243 Winchester
4. Best Rimfire Coyote Hunting Cartridge: .17 HMR
5. Best Pistol Cartridge for Coyote Hunting: .357 SIG

Why these cartridges? I’ll explain.

1. Best Overall: .223 Remington/5.56 NATO

.223 Remington and its military version, 5.56 NATO, is probably the most common coyote hunting round in use today. It’s not the most effective cartridge for taking yotes but it’s more than good enough.

The main advantage of .223 Rem is that it’s already a common round. Whether you have an AR-15 or a Winchester XPR, you have an excellent gun for harvesting coyotes.

Effective ammo is common and inexpensive, making this cartridge the best choice for most coyote hunters.

2. Best High Velocity: .22-250 Remington

While the .223 Remington wins the overall best slot because it’s a common and versatile cartridge that’s effective against coyotes, the .22-250 Remington can be considered an upgrade pick.

.22-250 Remington is the second-fastest commercial .22 cartridge, losing out only to .220 Swift, with over 4,000 fps performance!

This means the .22-250 is flat shooting and carries lots of kinetic energy past the yardage at which .223 loses oomph, about 300 yards.

Despite the added power, .22-250 rifles don’t have much recoil and aren’t known for damaging pelts, so I recommend this cartridge if you want a dedicated rifle for hunting coyotes.

3. Best Long Range: .243 Winchester

If you want to tag yotes at extreme ranges, 500 yards or more, then the .243 Winchester is a great choice. It uses a 6mm bullet for better ballistic performance than .22 caliber bullets at long ranges. Plus, it’s a common cartridge, so you can find a variety of hunting loads at your local store.

There may be other 6mm cartridges with slightly better velocity but that’s not necessary when taking a 30-lb animal, even at 400 yards.

Plus, you can use a .243 to take deer, giving your rifle more versatility!

4. Best Rimfire: .17 HMR

.17 Hornady Magnum Rimfire is the smallest I’d go when hunting coyotes.

Rimfire cartridges are not known for their knockdown power. However, keep your shots within 50 yards and wait for the perfect shot, and a .17 HMR will put down a yote with minimal damage to the pelt.

The only other rimfire I’d consider using to take a coyote is a .22 Winchester Magnum, though you will lose out on some needed velocity.

5. Best Pistol: .357 SIG

According to Massad Ayoob, the .357 SIG is well known for stopping violent dogs with one shot, something 9mm Parabellum cannot claim.

Load a pistol with Underwood ammo and the .357 SIG is a high-velocity, flat-shooting pistol round, well suited for taking coyotes at ranges farther than any other pistol cartridge.

What Caliber is Best for Coyotes?

Coyotes are varmints and medium-sized pest animals. They’re smaller than deer, so the best deer calibers may be too large for hunting coyotes.

Your local coyote can range from 20 to 50 pounds, depending on where you are in the United States. The average yote stands 24 inches tall at the shoulder and weighs 30 pounds.

So, you don’t need something powerful to take one down. And if you use something too big, well, you can damage the pelt past the point of usability.

.30 cal is the largest caliber I’d use against a coyote.

These predators are small enough that it’s actually hard to have a caliber too small to take them. Many coyotes have been harvested with .17 cal rifles, though at short range.

Light bullets just don’t hold enough kinetic energy for effective terminal performance at mid to long ranges.

A heavy .17 Hornet bullet is 30 grains and travels at about 3,000 feet per second, delivering about 800 foot-pounds of force right after the muzzle.

.223 Remington can send a 69-grain bullet at about the same speed, resulting in 1,340 foot-pounds. More than twice as heavy as the .17 caliber bullet and over twice the kinetic energy (KE).

Momentum equals mass times velocity so that heavier bullet will also have more momentum.

Go up to .308 Winchester and you can get the same speed with a 125-grain bullet. It’ll put out 2,600 foot-pounds at the muzzle, an excessive amount of energy to dump into a 30-pound animal!

So, if you want the best combination of effectiveness and lack of damage to the pelt, you want a .22 caliber firearm. (Not a .22 long rifle!)

Best Long-Range Caliber for Coyotes

However, if you want to shoot past 300 yards, stepping up in caliber will give you a boost to your ballistic performance. Longer, heavier bullets maintain velocity longer and buck the wind better.

You don’t want to go too big because big bullets mean big holes, excessively damaging the coyote’s pelt.

.243/6mm caliber is the sweet spot for long-range coyote hunting.

You can go larger, but then you risk devastating the animal if you have to take a short-range shot. .30 cal goes a bit far as the bullets get wider but not longer, so many coyote hunters will actually lose hunting range by using .30 caliber rifles.

Remember, you want to harvest animals with a clean kill, not blow them apart.

Next Best Rifle Cartridges for Coyotes by Caliber

Now that you have an idea of how caliber will affect your coyote hunt, let’s look at specific cartridges.

I’ll go over my favorite cartridges in each caliber and explain why you may or may not want to use them.

Smaller than .22 Caliber

It’s perfectly valid to shoot a coyote with a gun chambered in a cartridge smaller than .22 cal.

However, keep in mind that you’ll have to get awfully close to the yote to deliver enough kinetic energy for a swift kill.

.17 Hornet

Perhaps the most famous .17 caliber cartridge, the .17 Hornet is great at taking down coyotes if you have great shot placement and the patience to let them get close.

A .17 Hornet rifle will be light and relatively quiet.

However, you’ll have to pass on shots that could only be accomplished with larger rounds.

.204 Ruger

If you aim to minimize damage to the coyote’s pelt, then you want to consider using a rifle chambered in a .204 Ruger.

This cartridge is actually based on the .222 Remington Magnum, which is larger than the .223 Remington, so you’ll get blazingly-high velocities (up to 4,200 fps!) and tiny entrance wounds.

.22 Caliber

As mentioned before, .22 is the sweet spot caliber for coyote hunting for most folks. Every .22 bullet below will give you good velocities and small entrance wounds while dumping enough energy into the coyote to drop it, provided you do your part.

.223 Remington and .22-250 Remington are among our top 5 picks for best coyote cartridges, but they aren’t the only good options in this caliber.

.22 Hornet

The larger cousin of the .17 Hornet cartridge, the main reason to use a .22 Hornet over other .22 options is the lack of recoil.

It carries only slightly more KE than .17 Hornet, so keep in mind it’s still a short-ranged hunting round.

.224 Valkyrie

.224 Valkyrie was developed to maximize the distance one can shoot a .22 caliber rifle.

The round succeeds at this task and has even greater velocities than .22 Nosler, even with heavier bullet weights, making it a fair long-range hunting round.

.224 Valkyrie gives you the best performance you can get with a .22 caliber round in an AR-15.

However, this cartridge suffers from being overhyped. Ammo can be expensive and hard to find in stock.

.220 Swift

One of the most powerful .22 caliber rounds out there, the .220 Swift lives up to its name by being able to push a 50-grain bullet almost 4,000 feet per second!

This makes it a flat-shooting .22, great for hunting coyotes at longer ranges than people who stick to .223 Remington.

Of all the .22 caliber coyote hunting options, the .220 Swift will be the most effective at the longest ranges, almost making it the best choice.

.220 Swift has a reputation for burning out barrels, though. It’s also somewhat expensive to buy and reload.

Dishonorable Mention: .22 Long Rifle

Some people have used .22 long rifles to harvest coyotes.

This underpowered round requires you to get very close to the animal and is likely to just wound it even with the perfect shot.

Never use a .22 LR gun to shoot coyotes unless you’re in a survival situation and there are no other options.

6mm Caliber

Jumping up in caliber increases bullet width, allowing you to load more massive bullets for greater momentum.

This gives you both better knockdown power and a farther range, making the various 6mm cartridges perfect for hunting those pesky yotes.

As previously mentioned, the .243 Winchester is my top pick for the best long-range coyote cartridge. But here are a couple more worthy options.

6mm Creedmoor

“Creedmoor” is a well-known name for maximum-range shooting. However, it’s only a good, but not great, coyote hunting round.

That’s because the 6mm Creedmoor is a necked-down 6.5 Creedmoor developed as a target shooting cartridge. Maximum velocities but lower barrel life and excessive power when used on yotes.

If you already have a target or deer hunting rifle like the Ruger American Predator in 6mm Creedmoor then you can use it for coyote hunting.

However, if you’re picking up a rifle specifically for coyote hunting, I’d recommend one of the other 6mm choices.

6mm ARC

My favorite coyote hunting round is the 6mm ARC, also called the 6mm Advanced Rifle Cartridge.

Hornady developed this round to fit .243 potential in an AR-15 platform.

It’s a great long-range shooting round for both target shooting and hunting and has comparatively low recoil.

6mm ARC doesn’t reach .243 Win velocities because it fits the 6mm bullet into a shorter case.

This is an advantage for coyote hunting because the slightly weaker energy potential means you’re less likely to blow apart the animal’s hide.

The main problem with 6mm ARC is that it’s a new round so it can be hard to find commercial ammo.

For reloaders, though, I’d recommend 6mm ARC over any other coyote hunting cartridge!

6.5mm Caliber

Here we start to get into the realm of too effective.

You’ll put down the coyote at extreme ranges. Expect a damaged pelt, though.

6.5 Creedmoor

When people think of long-range shooting today, the 6.5 Creedmoor is what pops into their heads.

Like .243 or .308 Winchester, you can use 6.5 Creedmoor to hunt coyotes. And you can do so at ranges farther than either of those rounds.

If you want to brag to your friends about taking yotes farther than anybody else, 6.5 Creedmoor is a good choice.

But if you want to recover the fur, consider something weaker.

6.5 Grendel

My favorite hunting rifle is chambered in 6.5 Grendel, which I believe to be one of the most versatile chamberings possible for AR-15-style rifles.

6.5mm bullets are a bit big for coyotes, though.

However, since 6.5 Grendel is weaker than 6.5 Creedmoor, you can use it as a very effective coyote-hunting round at extreme ranges with less pelt damage.

.30 Caliber

Here we get into the largest bullets I’d recommend for coyote hunting.

Any bigger and you shouldn’t expect to recover much of the carcass!

7.62×39 and .30-30 Winchester

Some say that the venerable .30-30 Winchester cartridge has taken more deer than any other cartridge.

.30-30 and 7.62×39 are almost identical ballistically and both will knock down a coyote with one shot.

However, their medium-velocity, heavy bullets will limit your range and potentially spoil the animal’s hide.

If you’re going to use a lever-action rifle for hunting coyotes, then .30-30 is a great choice. If you already have an AK, it’s a capable coyote hunting rifle.

In other words, using these cartridges is fine if you already have them. If you’re looking for a coyote gun, pick something else.

.308 Winchester

.308 Winchester is a great all-around hunting cartridge because it can take a large variety of game and, due to its popularity, has a large variety of commercial loads available.

The main problem with the .308 Win is that it’s a full-size rifle cartridge and thus can be too powerful for 30-pound yotes.

However, Federal and Underwood both manufacture dedicated varmint loads that turn your .308 rifle into a great coyote gun.

.300 Blackout

My favorite .30 cal cartridge for hunting coyotes is .300 Blackout, and it’s not because it’s the most powerful or the farthest shooting.

Instead, it’s because this cartridge is optimized for suppressed shooting.

Whether you’re hunting at night or just want the advantages of a suppressor during the day, .300 Blackout will let you take advantage of this advanced hunting technique.

Unsuppressed, .300 Blackout is still a fair coyote hunting round, roughly equivalent to 7.62×39 or .30-30.

Next Best Pistol Cartridges for Hunting Coyotes

Because of their high mass and low velocity, Pistol rounds are only good hunting rounds at short ranges. You can still hunt with pistol cartridges, though, with some caveats.

While .357 SIG is my preferred cartridge for coyote hunting, here are a few more capable options to choose from.

9mm Parabellum

Please don’t hunt coyotes with a 9mm pistol.

However, a 9mm carbine can make for a good, if short-ranged, coyote hunting platform.

.40 Smith & Wesson

.40 S&W is slightly more powerful than 9mm, though it’s only a good coyote round when used in a carbine.

10mm Auto

In contrast to 9mm and .40 S&W, 10mm is an acceptable cartridge if you want to hunt coyotes with a pistol.

Use full-power loads and stabilize your arms against a solid object.

.38 Special and .357 Magnum

If you’ve got a revolver, both .38 Special and .357 Magnum are good at knocking down coyotes.

Keep your shots within 75 yards for .38 SPL and 100 yards for .357 mag, use hunting (not high-penetration lead round nose!) ammo, and your wheel gun will serve you well.

Larger revolver cartridges, such as .44 Magnum, run into that too-powerful problem where you’ll blow through the coyote instead of making a clean kill.

Quick Note: Shotguns for Hunting Coyotes

Basically, any shotgun can take down a coyote if you load it with a slug or buckshot. #4 buck is recommended for shorter ranges and 00 buck if you want to maximize your range

This applies to .410 as well, though I’d stick with slugs only.

However, larger-gauge shotguns will let you load more pellets, increasing your chances of striking the animal with a pellet.

Remember that “long-range” for 00 buckshot is 75 yards. With #4 buck, stick to 50 yards or less.

Conclusion

Coyotes are tricky yet satisfying to hunt.

They’re smaller than many expect, so .22 caliber rifles are perfect for taking down these smart predators.

.223/5.56 is one of the most common coyote hunting cartridges.

If you want a better yote-taking cartridge then try .22-250 Remington.

.243 Winchester is an excellent choice if you want to stretch your legs and take coyotes past 300 yards.

You can go down as small as .17 HMR to put down this wily varmint, though keep in mind that you need perfect shot placement at less than 50 yards.

What’s your favorite coyote hunting round?

FAQs

Is 6.5 Creedmoor Too Big for Coyotes?

6.5 Creedmoor is not too large to take coyotes, though it’s on the large side and can damage the pelt more than a smaller round.

Is 5.56 Good for Coyotes?

5.56 NATO is a great round for hunting coyotes. It has enough power, low recoil, and is inexpensive.

Is a .223 Big Enough for Coyotes?

.22 caliber bullets are a good size for harvesting coyotes. .223 Remington has more than enough power to put down a yote with a .22 bullet.

Can You Hunt Coyotes with a Rimfire?

Rimfire cartridges tend to be on the weak side, though you can still hunt coyotes with .17 HMR and .22 Magnum if you let the animal get close and have a perfect shot placement.

Is a .22LR Good for Coyote Hunting?

.22 long rifle is too weak to hunt coyotes ethically. It’s more likely to wound a yote than kill it.

The post Best Coyote Calibers and Cartridges (Including Long Range) appeared first on Outdoor Empire.

You’re wearing the right gear for the weather so you’re perfectly comfortable in your tree stand.

You’ve even memorized deer anatomy and know just where to aim to hit their heart, lungs, spine, or even brain stem.

And now a deer just barely stepped out from behind a tree and is looking straight at you, with your sights aimed between its eyes.

Should you take the shot?

Don’t fire at a deer that gives you a momentary sight picture. Also, don’t shoot at the deer that presents its nervous system but not the kill zone. Wait for a clean shot where you have a clear view of their heart and lungs. Be sure there are no obstructions like branches or rocks.

Too much can go wrong if you’re not taking a clean shot.

But what exactly do I mean by “clean shot”?

What is a Clean Shot in Hunting?

A clean shot is taken against a deer standing in the way that allows your projectile to pass through and damage the animal’s heart and lungs with little risk of missing.

This means a deer standing broadside to you or quartering away.

Your view of the deer should be clear, without wind-blown branches bouncing in the way. And the deer should be calm, stationary, and unconcerned about your presence.

This maximizes your chances of delivering a blow to those vital organs that kill the animal without causing too much pain and suffering.

A clean shot will devastate the heart and potentially both lungs, causing the animal to bleed out in moments.

Why aren’t Brain and Spine Shots Considered Clean Shots?

Some hunters consider a shot successful if the deer falls immediately, calling it “dead right there” or “DRT.” A prey animal that falls immediately saves you from having to track it down.

And it’s surely more humane, right? Only if you hit precisely where you need to hit. If you miss, even slightly, a brain stem shot won’t kill the deer.

Animal brains are small targets. You may find it easy to hit a small target when shooting off the bench at a level range. That bear, though, won’t be level with you, won’t be at exactly 100 yards, and is moving around.

Too many deer are walking around with their jaw half-blown off because an overconfident hunter wasn’t able to make such a difficult shot.

The nervous system is an effective target, but it’s just too hard to hit when real-world variables are in play. And even neck or spine shots may merely paralyze the animal instead of killing it. You want to put down the animal, not maim it and leave it suffering until the next hunting season!

How Often Do Hunters Miss?

Hunters love sharing stories about how they put down two deer in two shots last hunting season. But nobody brags about all the times they blew apart a branch just above the deer they were shooting at.

It’s hard to find hard data on how frequently hunters miss, though I have seen claims that only 20% of shots taken on the opening day of hunting season hit.

Now, being properly educated and practiced, I’m sure you’re within that 20%.

But keeping in mind that it’s a lot harder to hit an unpredictably moving target, it makes sense for so few deer to be taken in those first hours.

This is an exciting time.

A deer is in your sights! Finally!

Your blood pounds in your ears and adrenaline flows through your body.

It’s all too easy for an ordinarily good marksman to make a wild shot under these circumstances. And even a hit against a deer may be a technical miss.

If you aim for a heart shot and take out the liver, well, the deer will still die. Tomorrow. That’s not a clean kill. It’s more suffering for the animal and more work for you if you can even track down an animal that finally fell twelve hours after the shot.

This is why clean shots are essential. If you miss, even with a clean shot, you may hit close enough to the vitals to harvest the animal. Especially if you’re using the correct cartridge for the animal you’re hunting.

What is the Key to Making a Clean Kill in Hunting?

I’ve seen many reasons why hunters fail to make clean kills: the animal is standing at the wrong angle, or you’re using a too-highly-magnified optic—a bad zero.

But they all boil down to one factor: Impatience.

Too many hunters are impatient to get their animals and don’t pay enough attention to all the steps necessary to make their hunt successful.

The proper patience required for a clean shot starts at home, educating yourself about deer anatomy.

Then it requires patience at the gun range, practicing marksmanship, and learning your projectile’s ballistic path. You need to be familiar with them at all ranges you’re likely to see and for whatever animal you’re hunting.

Most of all, it requires patience in the field.

I know it’s hard to wait for a coyote to show up. But you need more than just an animal to make an effective, ethical shot. You need to wait for your prey to stand at the right angle and in the right place for a clear shot through its vitals.

There are over 30 million deer in the United States. The first deer you see will be followed by a second. Then a third. Then five more. Don’t take a shot against the first deer you see. Wait for a clean shot.

Which Shot Angles should be Avoided?

Though I will give a list of angles and whether they are good or not, you can figure out proper angles by understanding what makes a shot angle good or bad.

Earlier I mentioned the two best angles being broadside and quarter-away shots. This is because these give your projectile the best path through the animal’s vital organs with the minimum amount of bone and flesh in the way.

The more non-organ tissue your projectile has to penetrate before hitting vital organs, the less your chances of damaging those organs. This is why a quartering-to or head-on angle is often a poor choice for a shot.

When an animal is quartering toward you, one of its limbs is likely to block the path to its vitals. Smashing a bear’s shoulder may knock it to the ground, but now you have an angry, crippled animal. That’s not a clean kill!

Also, it’s easy to misjudge angles when taking a shot at an animal quartering toward you. The entrance wound may be in a good place, but the exit wound is likely farther back than you anticipated, meaning you hit flesh and missed vital organs.

Straight-on shots are tempting, but there’s a lot of rib cage between you and the animal’s heart. Those bones can deflect projectiles at worst and slow them down at best.

These angles can still be effective with a powerful-enough cartridge, but that doesn’t make them shots clean. And that’s not just because you’re lowering your chances of killing the animal. You’re also damaging a lot of delicious meat!

Worse still is when the animal is pointed directly away from you.

It’s tough to hit a deer’s heart when your gun is pointed at its tail. You’re more likely to shoot low and miss entirely or, worse still, to make what’s called a Texas heart shot by putting your bullet into the deer’s anus. Such a gut shot is painful and leads to a long, slow, excruciating death.

Common Deer Hunting Angles

• Broadside: Clean Shot
• Quartering Away: Clean Shot
• Quartering Toward: Marginal Shot
• Head On: Marginal Shot
• Tail On: Bad Shot

Note that these angles apply to most animals, not just deer. However, other animals may not present such a clean shot when they’re standing broadside.

For example, deer shoulder bones are shaped like a vertical boomerang, with the tip facing toward their front. This means that, though it may look like their shoulder covers up their heart, there’s actually little blocking the way to that vital organ.

Hog leg bones are more likely to cover their heart, though. You have to pay more attention to their stride to ensure you have a clean shot to the heart.

How Do You Ensure a Clean Kill?

Here are the four main factors that go into a clean kill:

1. Skill
2. Opportunity
3. Mindest
4. Gear

Let’s look at these four factors in what I believe to be their order of importance.

Skill

I put skill first because your ability to make a good shot is the most important part of making a quick, clean kill.

You have to know the anatomy of your prey and have the marksmanship to put your bullet or arrow precisely where you want it to go.

Opportunity

Opportunity is second because you can’t make a clean kill without a clean shot, and half of a clean shot is how the animal is positioned.

Is it standing still (or at least moving slowly)? At a good angle? With a clear view between you and the animal?

You can help improve these favorable circumstances by scouting out paths and properly positioning your hunting stand. But when it comes down to it, only the animal itself will give you the optimal shooting opportunity.

Mindset

Making a clean kill involves being prepared to take a clean shot. You need to keep your thoughts on the hunt. Pay attention so you’re not caught in an awkward position when the animal appears.

Then, once the animal is under your sights, your mindset will either leave you with a full freezer or a frustrating night of tracking blood from a gut shot.

It’s important to try to remain as calm as possible. This lets you focus on your marksmanship, which lets you take advantage of the clean shot opportunity to make a clean kill.

Slow your breathing. Double-check your surroundings to make sure there’s an appropriate backstop.

Gear

Gear is the last factor but it can make or break your hunt. Still, it’s the most supportive of the factors.

If you have the right skill, opportunity, and mindset, you can take down a deer with nothing more than a spear and a loincloth.

Everything else should just make your job easier.

I say “should” because some gear, such as a crappy scope or cheap cotton socks, can worsen your hunting experience.

Use a weapon with an appropriate cartridge or arrow type for your target. Be comfortable with that weapon at the ranges you expect to hunt.

Know how to use equipment such as rangefinders and test them on a hike before hunting season starts so you’re confident.

Your weapon is a vital article but it doesn’t discount the importance of your clothing!

If you’re not comfortable or well-camouflaged, you’ll have a harder time staying focused on hunting. This will make it all the more difficult to put down your game cleanly.

Conclusion

It’s easy to get caught up in the excitement of hunting. Finally, after so much preparation, you’re ready and able to shoot that deer!

Hold on a moment.

Have you maximized your chances of making a lethal shot on your deer? A clean shot is one against an animal’s largest vital organs, with little flesh and few bones in the way, while they’re not moving and aren’t behind cover.

An unclean shot is one taken at a bad angle, with foliage in the way, or one taken at the animal’s harder-to-hit areas, such as its brain.

Resist the temptation to shoot at your game merely because you can. Wait for the right time, and you’ll put the animal down cleanly.

It’ll be less stressful for both you and the animal.

The post How to Make a Clean Shot While Hunting appeared first on Outdoor Empire.

Back in the 1960s, we started to make an effort against the toxic effects of lead by removing it from gasoline. However, lead is also the most common projectile metal, especially in shotshells. And it turns out that lead from shot leeches into the groundwater and poisons the ducks, geese, and other animals we love to hunt.

So, in 1991, lead pellets were banned in waterfowl hunting and non-toxic shot became mandatory. Since then, duck populations have become healthier.

However, the most common non-toxic ammo uses steel pellets, which have the reputation of damaging old shotguns and aren’t as effective as lead.

So, what’s the best non-toxic ammo choice for your classic 1970s or older shotgun?

Steel shot isn’t recommended for vintage shotguns because they were manufactured with soft steel barrels that hard steel pellets can damage. Bismuth alloy is the safest non-toxic ammo for your old shotgun. Tungsten can be a good choice, but only when mixed with polymer.

Continue reading to learn more.

What is Non-Toxic Ammo?

Whether you’re hunting ducks, pheasants, or clay pigeons, the shotgun you’re using fires shot, tiny metal balls, also called pellets.

These pellets need to be dense to deliver enough kinetic energy to take down game animals. So for over a hundred years, the metal of choice has been lead.

However, lead is toxic. When lead particles are ingested, they are stored in the body and negatively affect every organ.

Blanketing marshlands and other waterways with lead shots is an excellent way to expose ducks to high levels of lead, which poisons them. This then poisons you when you eat the waterfowl you hunt.

Not every metal has this toxic property, though.

Non-toxic ammunition is made from metals (and sometimes polymers) that aren’t harmful to the body and won’t contaminate the environment.

Most non-toxic ammo is made from steel, an iron alloy. However, steel isn’t the only choice.

Steel Shot and Older Shotguns

In the 1970s, when the dangers of lead ammo became well known, ammunition manufacturers started producing steel ammo.

However, these steel pellets aren’t good for classic shotguns, so the manufacturers adapted and started producing steel-capable guns.

What’s the problem with steel shot? A shotgun’s barrel is made of steel, right?

The problem is that steel shot is harder than many historic shotgun barrels, especially the Damascus barrels found on some 19th-century guns.

Those barrels didn’t have to be made from hard steel. They were designed for use with soft lead. Hardening the barrel would have added to the gun’s cost.

The idea behind avoiding steel ammo is that hard steel shots can ding or gouge the interior of your softer steel barrel. This problem is mitigated because commercial steel ammo uses plastic wads that provide a cushion between the shot and barrel.

Because of this, some people fire light steel loads through their old non-Damascus barrel shotguns with no trouble. However, magnum loads can exacerbate this problem. And even if the steel pellets don’t harm your shotgun’s bore, they can damage the choke.

Steel pellets don’t compress nearly as well as lead, so they cause much higher pressures when the load is constricted as it passes through your shotgun’s choke.

This can lead to a ring bulge at the base of your choke.

I wouldn’t risk shooting steel hunting loads through a pre-’91 gun. Those were likely made with lead in mind and aren’t designed to stand up to high-velocity hard steel pellets.

Steel shot started to become popular in the 70s, so some (but not all) shotguns made between then and 1991 were manufactured with steel loads in mind. Plus, not every manufacturer noted on the barrel whether or not their guns were steel-shot rated!

So, the recommendation is to avoid using steel shot in pre-1991 guns.

Thankfully, there are other types of non-toxic ammo you can use.

Types of Non-Toxic Shotgun Ammo

At the time of writing, the United States Fish & Wildlife Service has approved 14 types of non-toxic shot for waterfowl, coot, and crane hunting.

Most of the 14 types are alloys of several major metals: iron, tungsten, and bismuth.

These three metals have sufficient density for the ammo to be lethal. They’re alloyed with various other metals to improve characteristics or reduce expense because pure tungsten and bismuth are rare and expensive.

Here’s the full list, along with their densities in grams per cubic centimeters:

Lead is included for comparison. The densities given are approximate due to varying alloy ratios. Plus, some densities are proprietary. (I’m looking at you, Hevi-Shot!)

Since non-toxic shot can be split into three major categories, let’s look at those in detail.

Steel Non-Toxic Shot

Iron-based shot, typically steel, is the most economical, non-toxic shot available.

Unfortunately, it comes with several downsides.

The first is that iron is only about 2/3rds as dense as lead. This means that all other factors being equal, a steel shot hunting load will carry less kinetic energy at the muzzle. Worse still, it’ll bleed velocity faster, further reducing knock-down power.

You can compensate for this by using heavier loads with larger pellets plus more powder. Your shoulder won’t thank you, however!

Also, steel is much harder than lead, so it has a harder time passing cleanly through tighter chokes. Firing steel shot through a full choke can blow out your pattern. But that’s not all.

As mentioned before, steel pellets are harder than many older shotgun barrels.

Avoid steel shot unless you’re using a modern shotgun or know your classic shotgun is rated to handle steel loads.

Tungsten Alloy Non-Toxic Shot

Tungsten is almost a wonder metal when it comes to shotgun hunting. It’s one of the few denser elements than lead, giving it great ballistic potential.

However, it’s an expensive and rare element, so you won’t find any shot that’s 100% tungsten. It’ll always be alloyed with something else.

You’ll find it alloyed with other metals, though some manufacturers mix it with polymers instead.

Still, a tungsten shot is non-toxic and will almost always be as dense as lead or even denser, so you can use the same loads as before.

However, tungsten sometimes has the same problem as steel shot of being harder than lead, rendering it incompatible with old shotguns.

Annoyingly, this isn’t always the case, so you can’t just look at the word “tungsten” and know if it’s safe for your heirloom shotgun.

The tungsten non-toxic shot mixed with polymer, such as Kent’s Tungsten Matrix and Hevi-Shot Classic Doubles, tend to be classic-shotgun-safe.

If you’re not sure, then there’s a safer option.

Bismuth Alloy Non-Toxic Shot

Bismuth isn’t as dense as lead, but it’s denser than iron.

More importantly, it’s softer than either iron or tungsten. In fact, it’s about as soft as lead.

This makes the various bismuth shot offerings perfect when you want to grab your classic shotgun for some waterfowl hunting. It’s what I use.

Bismuth does have the same “downside” as tungsten in that it’s much more expensive than steel.

It’s also not quite as long-ranged and hard-hitting as good ol’ lead, but it’s close enough for most hunters.

What About Copper and Nickel Plated Shot?

A common question is whether plating makes steel shot dangerous for old guns. Or if plating makes lead shot dangerous for the same guns.

Basically, any plating on shot pellets is there for corrosion resistance and friction reduction. It doesn’t affect the shot’s underlying properties.

I recommend avoiding steel shot with older hunting shotguns, even when plated.

How to Choose the Right Non-Toxic Shot for Your Old Shotgun

When looking for the best non-toxic ammo, you want an intersection of range, knock-down power, and economy.

Plus, it has to be safe for your gun!

While light steel loads may be safe for your older gun, they won’t be effective hunting loads.

That said, if you have an older trap shooting gun and your shotgun club allows (or requires!) steel shot, you should be fine so long as you avoid heavy target loads and don’t fire them through any choke more restrictive than a modified choke.

When it comes to hunting, bismuth shot is the safest non-toxic option.

You’ll get almost as much performance with a bismuth-alloy shotshell as you’d get with the same lead-pellet load without polluting waterways.

Specific tungsten loads are a good option, too, when you want to maximize your chances.

Be careful with the tungsten ammo you choose, though. Stick to tungsten pellets made with polymer binders. Otherwise, the tungsten alloy may be too hard for your shotgun’s choke.

I like to load my shells with a bismuth alloy such as RotoMetals Bismuth Shot.

Hevi-Shot’s Hevi Bismuth is a common non-toxic waterfowl hunting choice.

Conclusion

Though it has good physical characteristics as a projectile, lead is a toxic element that poisons animals and people when scattered about the environment.

This is why the federal government mandated non-toxic shots when hunting waterfowl in 1991. It’s also why I’ve swapped to a non-toxic shot for all my shotgun hunting.

However, the most common non-toxic ammo is made with steel, which can damage vintage shotguns.

Thankfully, you can find bismuth-alloy and tungsten-matrix shotshells that are not only safe for your classic shotgun but are also devastatingly effective hunting loads!

FAQs

What is Non-Toxic Shot Made From?

Non-toxic shot is made from metals that won’t poison animals and people if particles from the pellets are eaten.

Steel, bismuth, and tungsten are the most common non-toxic metals used.

Which Non-Toxic Shot is Safe for Older Shotguns?

Bismuth is the safest shot material for older shotguns.

Tungsten can be safe, but you need to avoid pellets made from tungsten that have been alloyed with iron. That ammo will have the same dangers as steel.

The post Non-Toxic Ammo for Old Shotguns: What You Need To Know appeared first on Outdoor Empire.

But how far away is that animal? And how far is your bullet going to drop?

In my opinion, the best hunting zero technique is the Maximum Point Blank Range zero. MPBR lets you place your bullet into an animal’s vital zone at short to long ranges without requiring any field math, Kentucky windage, or fiddling with your sights.

It’s a dismal feeling when you think you’ve hit an animal with a well-placed shot only to discover, after many hours and much tracking, that you hit it in the gut and caused a slow, painful death.

Accidentally shooting above the buck is better but can still cause the animal to bolt, potentially ruining your hunt.

And, while rangefinders are amazing tools, you don’t always have the time or ability to figure out that animal’s exact range and compensate accordingly.

But what does “Maximum Point Blank Range” mean anyway? And how can you use that to zero your rifle?

Why Use Maximum Point Blank Range Zeroing for Hunting?

If there’s one word I’d use to describe hunting with the Maximum Point Blank Range (MPBR) zero, that word is confidence.

You’ll be able to confidently take the shot on your game at short, medium, and even long ranges. Without using a rangefinder!

How does giving your rifle an MPBR zero accomplish this?

Why, it’s in the name: it maximizes your rifle’s point-blank range.

Many people use the term “point-blank” to refer to a target close enough you have almost no chance of missing. This common usage is not entirely correct, though they’ve got the right idea!

Properly speaking, point-blank range is the distance at which you can aim without having to compensate for bullet drop.

MPBR is a sighting technique that applies this idea to the specific animal (or target) you want to hunt. Aim for the center of the kill zone, pull the trigger, and you’ll make a devastating shot at 50, 100, or even 200 yards!

You may have but a fleeting moment to line your sights up on that moose or bear and take the shot. Spend some time at the range sighting in your gun and you’ll be able to take advantage of that moment.

How the Maximum Point Blank Range Zero Works

As you’re aware, bullets drop. They have an arc to their flight. Always a downward arc, technically, due to gravity.

Your sights, whether they’re iron sights, a red dot, or a telegraphic sight, do not arc. They point in a solid line, off to eternity.

Keep this line in mind.

Many people sight in their rifles at 100 yards and expect to hit below that at farther ranges. In this case, that line from the scope points slightly downward relative to the gun’s bore. It intersects with the bullet’s arc at a single known point, 100 yards.

This is fine for range purposes but we can do better.

MPBR points the sight’s line at an angle to intersect the bullet’s arc twice. If we had a chart with the sight-held level, it would look like the bullet’s curve would be rising at the first intersection and falling at the second intersection.

That first intersection is the Near Zero and the far intersection is the Far Zero. But that’s not all MPBR gives you.

Because MPBR is calculated using your chosen target’s vital zone size, the bullet will never rise (relative to your sights) enough to leave that vital zone.

You’ll hit high when the animal is between the Near Zero and the Far Zero, but never too high! (So long as you aim at the dead center of the vital area, of course.)

But the Far Zero isn’t your shooting limit. The bullet will continue to drop, but it’ll take some time for the bullet to arc downward enough to leave the vital zone.

The distance the bullet will travel before dropping out of the target area is the “maximum” part of “Maximum Point Blank Range.” It can be 40 yards past the Far Zero or more.

Using this zero, your maximum point-blank range will be 200 yards or more, depending on your rifle, ammo, and target.

How to Sight Your Rifle with a Maximum Point Blank Range Zero

So, setting up your rifle to take advantage of the MPBR hunting zero does take some math and even some research, but it’s all pretty easy.

Here’s what you need to know:

1. Your target’s vital area size
2. Your rifle sight’s height over the bore
3. Your ammo’s initial velocity
4. Your projectile’s ballistic coefficient

Let’s tackle those in order and then put them all together.

Target Size

You need to know how large a target you want to hit, measured from top to bottom. For a small deer’s vital area, this is roughly eight inches in height.

You’ll have to look up the kill zone yourself if you’re hunting another animal. You can also measure a paper target’s height and use that number.

Measure the total size of the target, not the distance from the center to the edge.

Sight Height Over Bore

You know how bolt-action rifles tend to have sights close to the barrel while modern sporting rifles such as ARs tend to have iron sights that stand several inches above the bore?

This actually works to the MSR’s advantage when it comes to MPBR!

Find the distance from your sight’s centerline to the middle of the bore. This is the sight height measurement. It’s different from gun model to gun model. For example, most AR-15s have an iron sight height over bore of 2.6″.

A slightly less precise yet still useful method of determining your sight’s height over bore is to measure from the middle of the bolt or barrel to the middle of the scope.

If your rifle has a tapered barrel and iron sights, Brownells has a sight height calculator that can help you.

Projectile Velocity

Here’s where you need to grab a chronograph if you want to be truly accurate. You need to know your ammo’s initial velocity—the more accurate, the better. If you need to, you can use your ammo manufacturer’s data for this, though it won’t be accurate to your gun.

Variances in barrel manufacturing can affect velocity. So can atmospheric factors and barrel length. If these don’t match up with the manufacturer’s tests, then your velocity won’t be accurate.

A difference of 50 fps can result in an MPBR reading difference of 6 yards, which doesn’t render the calculation ineffectual but does add up.

Ballistic Coefficient (and Drag Function)

You must also know your specific projectile’s ballistic coefficient (BC). This measurement of the bullet’s shape helps shooters estimate the bullet’s ability to buck the wind. It’s complicated to calculate and changes based on the bullet’s velocity.

Thankfully, you can just get this off your bullet manufacturer’s website with little fuss.

Another factor, the drag function, also affects the calculations. It has to do with the bullet’s shape, such as the ogive’s shape (curved point) and the boat tail’s angle.

If the bullet maker shares this information, it’ll be a G followed by a number. G1 is the most common, though you’ll likely notice G7 on some very low-drag bullets.

Some manufacturers, such as Hornady, give you several BCs and specify which drag function to use. Make sure to match the BC to the drag function.

Don’t see a drag function?

Just use G1. It’s the most popular.

Putting it All Together and Calculating Maximum Point Blank Range

Now here’s the part you’ve been dreading: Doing the math.

Just kidding!

You can use an online calculator to figure out your MPBR.

Choose your drag function and enter the measurements you picked out above.

If you’re feeling spicy, you can click the box to enable atmospheric correction, though this will have a minor effect on your final results.

Click “Calculate Point Blank Range” and you’ll have five numbers:

1. Near Zero
2. Far Zero
3. Minimum PBR
4. Maximum PBR
5. Sight-in at 100 yds

Maximum PBR will give you the farthest you can engage your target and still make a kill shot, provided you do your part well.

Near Zero, Far Zero, and Sight-in at 100 yds give you what you need to sight in your rifle for the Maximum Point Blank Range zero.

Sighting In Your Rifle with the Maximum Point Blank Range Zero Technique Step-by-Step

1. Write down the results from the calculator and keep the info with you as you go to the range.
2. Bring a target that’s good for sighting in rifles. I like to use those with 1″ squares so I don’t have to measure how far away my bullets hit.
3. If this is your first time sighting in your rifle, then you will need to bore sight your rifle to get on paper before you throw lead down range.Otherwise, head to the shooting range!
4. Look at those three numbers, the Near Zero, Far Zero, and 100 yards Sight-in.Which one is the closest to an easy-to-use round number?Choose the most convenient of the three and set up a target at that distance. This is likely the Near Zero or the 100-yard Sight-in.For either the Near Zero or the Far Zero, you want the bullet hole to be at the exact point of aim.For the 100-yard Sight-in, you want the point of impact to be the calculated distance above (or maybe below) the point of aim.
5. Aim at the bullseye and shoot slow, controlled groups. I start with three-shot groups at first, then five-shot groups when I’m confirming that the rifle is sighted in.
6. Shoot a group, observe the results, adjust your sights, and repeat until you’re on target.
7. Now, test your rifle at various ranges.

You’ll hit below the bullseye up to your Near Zero, above it until the Far Zero, and below it past there, all the while staying in your target area.

Congratulations! You’re ready to hunt with full confidence in your ability to deliver a one-shot kill.

Example Maximum Point Blank Range Zero Calculations

While it’s best to enter information specific to your rifle and ammunition into the calculator, here are a few example calculations based on common hunting calibers.

Remington 700 Chambered in .270 Winchester

.270 Winchester is a venerable cartridge that’s effective against almost every game animal in North America. Many Remington 700s are chambered in .270, making this a rather common combo.

Out of a 24″ barrel, Hornady’s American Whitetail 140 gr InterLock bullet has an initial velocity of 2,940 fps with a ballistic coefficient of .486 and a G1 draft factor.

The average Remington 700 scope’s height over bore is 1.68″.

We’ll use a deer’s vitals for our target size.

This gives you a Near Zero of 26 yards, Far Zero of 281 yards, and MPBR of 330 yards. The bullet will hit 3.2″ high at 100 yards.

AR-15 Chambered in 5.56 NATO

AR-15s have become standard rifles for varmint hunting and even deer hunting in some areas. You’ll want to use a heavy-for-caliber bullet when hunting with 5.56 NATO or .223 Remington but that type of ammo is commonly available now.

So, with a sight height of 2.6″ and using Hornady BLACK ammo with 75 gr InterLock bullets, you can get a .230 BC bullet (G1 draft factor) moving at 2,321 fps.

This is good enough for coyote hunting, so we’ll use a vital zone of 5″.

With this data, you’ll have a Near Zero of 35 yards, Far Zero of 183 yards, and MPBR of 211 yards. Your bullet will hit 2.42″ high at 100 yards.

Your Average .308 Winchester Hunting Rifle

Open up most ballistic programs and you’ll find a 1.5″ scope height as standard. Grab a bolt-action rifle with a not-huge scope, or even some semi-auto rifles, and that will match up close enough.

Load up that .308 rifle with some Hornady American Whitetail 165 gr InterLocks and you have a fine hunting rifle. How does its MPBR hold up, though?

Use a velocity of 2,700 fps, .435 BC (G1 draft factor), and point the rifle at a large deer or small sheep for a target size of 12″.

You’ll get a Near Zero of 17 yards, Far Zero of 299 yards, and MPBR of 352 yards!

That .30-cal bullet will hit 4.8″ high at 100 yards.

This sounds high, but the Maximum Point Blank Range is working as intended. You’ll hit high out to almost 300 yards, but never more than 6″ high!

When to Use Other Hunting Zero Techniques

As much as I like using the Maximum Point Blank Range zero for hunting small and large game, it’s not perfect for every situation.

You may always hunt at the same known distance, such as from a hunting stand to the edge of a field. This will let you sight in your rifle so your point of aim and point of impact intersect at exactly that distance.

On the other hand, people who are hunting at very long ranges won’t see any benefit from using MPBR. It’s only useful for that indicated maximum distance. Then afterward, you’ll have to calculate bullet drop.

You might as well sight in that firearm with a more convenient zero.

And if you’re only going to shoot at paper or steel targets at specific ranges, then you’ll want the precision of a more specific zero. Especially when in a shooting competition where accuracy matters.

Also, the MPBR zero is designed for fixed elevation sights or sights where it’s a pain to adjust the elevation. If you have sights that are designed to be adjusted to compensate for range, then using an MPBR zero will muddy the calculations.

Examples are some high-end scopes and AR-15 iron sights with the elevation drum. Sight those in as recommended by the manufacturer and you won’t need to use the MPBR zero!

Conclusion

Calculating your Maximum Point Blank Range will give you several zeros you can use to dial in your rifle for hunting at various ranges.

Best of all, you won’t need any range measuring or elevation adjustment. Aim at the center of your prey’s vital zone and fire. You’ll hit right where you need to hit!

This is perfect for hunting in situations where that pesky deer can show up 50 yards away or 200. It’s also good for smaller targets.

Even some 3-gun shooters can take advantage of the technique.

Most of my hunting rifles are zeroed according to their Maximum Point Blank Range.

How do you zero your hunting rifles?

The post The Best Hunting Zero Technique? Maximum Point Blank Range appeared first on Outdoor Empire.