You can always buy a hatchet or an ax at a big box store like Walmart, Dick’s, or Lowe’s. But always go local or specialized when looking for quality craftsmanship. Companies focusing on survival gear tend to have the best of the best, whereas big stores want more bang for their buck, not yours.

The best axes and hatchets can be bought across the web, but ideally, you want to find someone who knows they’re selling high-quality merchandise and backs it with a solid guarantee.

DISCLOSURE: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Some links in this article are affiliate links. If you click on a link we may earn a commission if you make a purchase, at no additional cost to you.

List of Where to Buy a Hatchet or Ax

To get the ideas flowing, here’s a list of retailers selling axes and hatchets.

Check out our top picks for the best survival axes and hatchets!

Best Places to Buy an Ax or Hatchet

Here is more insight into some of the best stores or types of stores where you can buy a hatchet or an ax.

1. Self Reliance Outfitters

Sometimes you get lucky and find some great online retailers that not only provide you with a direct route to buy a hatchet or an ax but they tell you the best way to pick one as well.

Self Reliance Outfitters is one of the best out there for providing helpful information along with a way of actually buying the product you decide is best.

2. Survivalgear.us

This site provides an incredible array of different axes and hatchets that are all of a high caliber. Even the lower-priced items they offer are some of the best brands out there that you won’t find in many big box stores.

3. Buy Directly from the Source

Often it’s best to get rid of the middleman and find your way directly to the manufacturer’s website. You can do the research to find the best axes and hatchets for survival or bushcraft, then find them directly on the brand’s site.

However, this can have its drawbacks, as larger online retailers work with brands to lower prices and can often get you a hefty discount.

4. Amazon

While looking for a hatchet or an ax, you may find yourself on Amazon. That’s because they have solid systems that will get you lower costs than many other retailers.

What you should do, though, is go to Amazon knowing what you want to buy. Many reviews and ratings can be skewed by fraudulent items that have paid reviews and cannot be relied upon.

On Amazon, you’ll always find the cheaper brands and some of the higher-caliber models, which can always be helpful when trying to decide and put them side by side.

5. Army Surplus Stores

Army surplus stores can be found all around, in almost any city in the US. These shops are great for getting an ax or hatchet. Other tactical shops will likely carry axes and hatchets that will work incredibly well in survival situations, making them a great option too.

6. Local Outdoor Shops

Some local outdoor shops may sell survival gear, but you’ll want to research first. Try looking for outdoor shops that specifically talk about selling camping or survival gear rather than outdoor sports stores that are more focused on selling new running shoes and tennis rackets.

7. Big Box Sporting Goods Stores

Some sporting goods stores will often have a decent selection of hatchets and axes for camping purposes, but many of them will have quite a limited selection.

Shops like Cabela’s, Sportsman’s Warehouse, Dick’s, REI, and even the sporting goods section of Walmart will have commonly-found brands like Fiskars, Gerber, and sometimes Hults Bruk or Adler (if you’re lucky).

These are the shops to go to when the purchase doesn’t matter much to you. You might find something worthwhile, but you’ll likely be settling for something that might be a bit overpriced and less likely to perform as well as something of the same price but of higher quality elsewhere.

8. Hardware Stores

Hardware stores fall into a similar category as sporting goods stores. Since most of the axes and hatchets you’ll find in hardware stores are meant for tasks around the house, they may lack other features you would want in a survival scenario.

Sometimes, you’ll find camping axes that will work quite well, but they aren’t always available in-store, so you may go online anyway. If you’re online, it may be worth heading to another retailer to see what they offer and picking up something more specialized for use in survival or bushcraft scenarios.

The post Where to Buy a Hatchet or Ax (20+ Online & Local Sellers) appeared first on Outdoor Empire.

The thing is, you don’t always need to pack both of them for a trip. There’s a lot of overlap between the tools, and the redundancy makes the extra weight not worth it, especially when you’re not car camping.

So, you need to choose between them, but how?

If you had to pick one, a good bushcraft knife tends to be the best pick when choosing between a knife and a hatchet. You can split smaller cuts of wood, perform precise carving, and they’re perfect for skinning and dressing anything you catch while out.

That being said, both a hatchet and a knife can support you and save your life if the moment arises. We’ll look at the two side by side to get an idea of which one will give you precisely what you’re looking for on your next trip out.

The Best Uses for a Hatchet

Even though I’ll suggest a knife vs. hatchet 75 percent of the time, there’s still that other 25 percent. Hatchets can be incredibly useful in certain survival scenarios, and there have been plenty of moments while out that I wished I had one.

The best hatchets are designed to be beaten up and used aggressively, which definitely gives them the advantage for many different tasks that a knife will struggle to keep up with.

Here are a few ways a hatchet will excel in a bushcraft scenario.

1. Tree Felling and Bigger Jobs

This is one of the primary designs of the hatchet. The longer handle and heavyset head are made to swing powerfully into the trunk of a tree and slowly chip away until it comes down.

If you try to do the same with a knife, even a big Bowie, you’ll find yourself with a tree still standing and frustration that only comes from failure and wasted work energy.

A hatchet is also much more efficient when it comes to splitting wood. If you have consistent fires that demand a lot of wood, you may want a hatchet.

The difference between a knife and a hatchet here is the power for big tasks. Some bushcraft is about building larger structures and shelters. To do this, you’ll find yourself having a much better time with a hatchet than with only a knife.

However, if you’re building a large structure, you’ll likely stay put and bring both, so you won’t need to choose between the two.

2. Hammering

The hammer end of a camping hatchet can come in handy throughout loads of different survival situations. Often, shelters will need stakes hammered in, the meat you catch might need to be tenderized, and you can hammer pieces of traps in the ground to make them more secure and reliable.

The catch here is that I’ve always found a good rock will work just as well for most of the hammering tasks that a hatchet will do for me.

3. Self-defense

One of the biggest arguments people make for the hatchet or an axe is its utility in a self-defense scenario. The longer handle provides reach, which is vital in a close encounter. The head’s weight can be damaging alone, even if the sharp end fails to make contact.

That being said, any tool in the hands of someone who doesn’t know how to use it will be useless. If you’re a knife fighter but you have a survival hatchet, it won’t go as well as it would if you had a knife.

4. Durability

One of the biggest advantages of a hatchet is its durability. This strength has a few facets, including its long-term use and ease of repair.

First, you can swing a hatchet for months without its quality deteriorating. The heavier head and the sturdy handle are designed for heavy use when a knife blade may actually snap.

If the wooden handle breaks, it’s pretty easy to make a new one. Since the head is so bulky, it’s far less likely to break than a knife blade, so it’s more reliable over the long term.

The Top Advantages of a Knife

The arguments for a hatchet are compelling, but I often find I can get by with a solid knife. To be clear, the knife we’re talking about isn’t a $30 folding knife you get at Walmart. We’re talking about one of the best survival knives, typically a full tang, beefy blade built for rougher use.

The differences between a survival knife and a camping knife are huge, so it’s essential to be clear about the style of knife you want for survival and bushcraft rather than a short weekend out.

1. Lightweight and Compact

Compared to a camping hatchet, a knife is much lighter and more compact, making it easier to haul around on long trips. If you know you’ll be walking great distances, a knife will always be a better pick than a hatchet since you’ll thank yourself when putting your pack on.

This also means that a knife is easier to keep on your person and to have accessible at all times. A hatchet on the hip has always gotten in my way and ends up being more of a nuisance than a help.

2. Wood Carving

Many survival tasks, especially trap building, require more fine woodworking skills that are difficult to do with a bigger blade. A knife provides a smaller blade, making it ready to take on more intricate tasks.

3. Skinning and Cleaning Game

Hopefully, when you’re out in a bushcraft scenario, you’ll need to skin and clean your recent catch. The smaller edge of a knife allows you to clean your harvest more precisely. If you do it well, you can use more of the animal and get even more meat off its bones.

A knife will only fall short when you’re quartering or removing a larger piece of the animal, like the head. Some of the best knives for hunting are helpful for these tasks and will get the job done, just not as quickly as a hatchet.

The truth is, you’re less likely to be field-dressing big game when in a bushcraft scenario. You want a knife by your side for the smaller rodents you’re likely to snare.

4. Batoning and Feathering Wood

While a hatchet comes out on top with splitting wood, a good survival knife can baton some impressive chunks of wood. Batoning, simply the process of splitting wood with a knife by whacking on it with another piece of wood, is a helpful way to get smaller chunks of wood for fires.

A knife is also much easier to use to feather wood. Feathering wood is like shredding the wood into smaller strips that will light and catch much easier than a larger stick. I use this to get dry tinder from larger branches, as many small sticks will soak water up quicker.

Is a Hatchet Better Than a Knife?

So, what’s better, a hatchet or a knife?

This is going to be something that’s fully up to personal opinion. I will likely pack a solid bushcraft knife over a hatchet, but that can change. I’ll choose the hatchet if I’m packing for a week of staying still and shelter-building.

Many people find it okay to use the hatchet as a knife or vice versa. That’s the piece of personal preference that can actually answer this question.

Hatchet vs. Knife FAQs

Is a hatchet a knife?

A hatchet is a smaller version of an axe with a tapered head, making it completely different than a knife. A knife is a smaller, more compact blade that is longer, thinner, and designed for more intricate tasks.

Does the military use hatchets?

While the hatchet used to have more of a presence in the military, it is still used today in specific applications. The Navy Seals are known to carry hatchets into missions for hand-to-hand combat and breaching missions.

The post Hatchet vs Knife: Expert Camp Tool Comparison appeared first on Outdoor Empire.

The difference between an axe and a hatchet can be hard to distinguish. So if you’re in the market for a blade that can chop, you’re probably wondering whether you should get a hatchet or an axe. And it would be nice to know why.

Axes are much larger with handles that are 20-36 inches long. Hatchets are small with handles around 12-18 inches long. An axe is better for splitting wood and larger jobs like felling trees, while a hatchet is better for small, more tactile jobs like preparing kindling for a fire.

But there’s even more to it than that one simple answer.

The Difference Between a Hatchet and an Axe

The hand axe is among the first stone tools that archaeologists discovered. Modern axe or hatchet designs likely evolved from these early tools resulting in a spectrum of handle lengths, blade types, and applications.

From afar, an axe and a hatchet seem incredibly similar tools to get the same job done. However, when it comes down to it, these two tools have significant design details that make each one a better choice for different jobs.

Yes, the hatchet is a smaller version of an axe with its shorter handle designed for single-handed use and lighter weight, but it’s more than just a small axe. The design of a hatchet and an axe blade is entirely different.

A hatchet’s head has a much more significant taper than an axe’s. An axe head is much heavier, with a wedge shape. This shape helps wood split apart when the head is driven into it. The hatchet isn’t designed to split wood, so it uses a more aggressive taper to save on weight and perform different tasks.

That’s why you will have a hard time if you try to split a log with a hatchet. It’s not made to do that. But if you’ve ever tried carving with an axe, you either understand the difficulty or have one less finger to remind you of it daily.

Always review proper protocol and safety before grabbing an axe or a hatchet and setting off to work.

You may also hear the term single-hand axe or something similar. Some may also call this tool a hatchet, and no one really cares. But this may be the case when an axe-like head with a broader wedge on the blunt end of the blade is put onto a shorter handle.

FUN FACT: The word hatchet comes from an old French term, hachette, which means little axe. Whereas hache simply means axe, even in Germanic.

Hatchet vs. Axe for Camping

Axes and hatchets have their place in a weekend camping trip, but each one will help you out differently. In general, if you have to choose one, bring a hatchet. I bring an axe along if I’m car camping and have the space, but I rarely ever use it.

Using axes while camping can be helpful, and pointing out the positives of having an axe on standby is necessary. They’ll help you:

• Split wood at campsites
• Get rid of hazardous trees in the area

That being said, axes aren’t often everyone’s first pick for camping because axes:

• Are cumbersome
• Aren’t very multi-purposed
• Take up a lot of space
• Aren’t always necessary

Hatchets, on the other hand, tend to be the seasoned outdoorsman’s first pick for a camping trip. They’re perfect for camping because they:

• Are portable
• Serve many purposes
• Help get fires started
• Can be used for carving in hobbies and tool-making
• Can help clean an animal if you’re hunting

Drawbacks of a hatchet when camping are:

• You will struggle splitting larger pieces of wood
• You can’t chop down a tree

While they fall short in these areas, you aren’t often splitting large logs while camping. You’re burning downed wood, not cut wood. Also, cutting down a tree, even when it’s a hazard, is a highly controversial thing to do.

For camping, it’s pretty easy to say that a hatchet is your best choice. You can bring an axe, but you’re not likely to use it very often.

Axe or Hatchet to Split Wood

If you heat your house with a wood stove, you’re likely familiar with axes and hatchets. The thing is, both of them will be incredibly useful but in entirely different cases.

Between an axe and a hatchet, you’ll be able to get all of your wood splitting done and get a fire started easily.

An axe will be the first tool to grab as it will help with the bigger jobs.

When splitting larger logs that have just been cut from the tree or that are nicely seasoned after drying out all summer, an axe will do what no hatchet can. This is what they were designed for! The wedge shape of the head actually pushes the wood apart and helps split it as it travels downward.

A splitting maul is an even more heavy-duty, wood-splitting hand tool. It’s basically an axe with a hybrid head with a maul hammer on the blunt end of the axe blade.

The head of a splitting maul is generally double or triple the weight of a typical axe. This makes it heavier and harder to swing around but much more efficient at splitting since the head’s weight tends to dive deeper into the wood and split faster than a classic axe. It’s more weight but takes fewer swings to get the job done.

A hatchet, on the other hand, will likely live inside next to your wood stove. When you bring in seasoned wood, you must split it up even more to have good kindling for starting a fire. This is where the hatchet outperforms an axe. You can handle them better, and it’s much safer to split small wood with a hatchet than an axe.

Hatchet vs. Axe for Survival and Bushcraft

Another area in which you’re likely to bring an axe or a hatchet is into your survival and bushcraft hobbies. There are loads of axes and hatchets that are deemed the best for bushcraft, so it’s obvious that they’re both contenders when talking about which one to bring.

You’ll notice that the best axes for survival are usually on the smaller end, like the single-hand axes mentioned earlier. Bushcraft often requires a lot of moving around, so you want something more portable.

But, again, axes have their place in survival and bushcraft, so let’s look at the pros and cons of each to know what exactly to bring.

Axes for Bushcraft and Survival

Pros

• Ability to split larger wood which helps heat a shelter in long-term survival

Cons

• Super heavy
• Can’t use it for smaller tasks

Hatchets for Bushcraft and Survival

Pros

• Can be used to split smaller, softer cuts of wood
• Can carve other tools for trapping/hunting/fishing
• Easily portable
• Can be used to clean animals

Cons

• Unable to split larger logs effectively

Stepping back, it’s easy to see that hatchets are often the best choice for survival and bushcraft if you’re choosing between the two. They’re likely to serve a better purpose and you’ll end up using them for countless things around camp, knowing that you can rely on them.

What About a Tomahawk?

A third option that enters the competition is the tomahawk. While these are traditionally known for their use by Native Americans in old war settings, they also have other functional uses.

Tomahawks are more closely related to the hatchet than the axe, but the design differs.

Tomahawks have a straight handle that’s typically longer in relation to the size of the head. This comes from being designed for throwing and providing more leverage.

The head of a tomahawk also has a particular shape with a blade extending out one or both sides. Sometimes a blunt hammer is found opposite the blade. The two ends of the head typically taper down significantly and are more narrow at the center than the diameter of the handle.

So the metal around where the head attaches to the handle bulges out and around.

This keeps the weight down since it requires less metal than an axe or hatchet head. But it also helps in tasks like splitting wood where that thicker centerpiece can force the wood apart.

Hatchets are often much heavier than tomahawks. That’s because they’re made to chop wood more efficiently, while a tomahawk is meant to also serve as a weapon.

Today, you’ll find people using tomahawks to chop small wood and do various camp tasks. Tomahawk throwing is also a common hobby.

Which is better, an axe or a hatchet?

Both axes and hatchets are better in certain situations.

If you want to chop larger cuts of wood, you want to bring an axe. It’s made for the job and the long handle provides the space for two hands and the leverage to bring more power to splitting wood. Axes are better suited for at-home tasks and chores.

For smaller, more fine-tuned tasks like preparing kindling for a fire, a hatchet should be your pick. This can be anything from splitting kindling to carving a trap in a survival scenario. Hatchets are much more travel-friendly than an axe, making them an excellent pick for camping and bushcraft.

The post A Full Hatchet vs Axe Comparison: Splitting Wood and Hairs appeared first on Outdoor Empire.

However, much like a good pair of shoes, there is no one-size-fits-all solution to this problem.

Depending on the context, either of these blades could be a viable option for you. For camping or hunting, fixed blades give you unparalleled stability while folding knives give you a compact option for fishing or EDC.

This article covers the differences between a folding and fixed blade knife, when to use them, and a few pros and cons for each model.

DISCLOSURE: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Some links in this article are affiliate links. If you click on a link we may earn a commission if you make a purchase, at no additional cost to you.

Fixed Blade vs. Folding Knives

Fixed blade knives are made of one solid piece of metal that forms the blade and runs through the handle. This model is less compact than a folder but sturdier and incapable of mechanical failure.

Common types of fixed blade knives include:

• Boot Knife
• Camp Knife
• Dagger
• Gutting Knife
• Skinning Knife
• Drop Point
• Bowie
• Buck Knife

A folding knife hinges so that the blade folds into the handle. Often assisted with a spring, this knife can be more compact but lacks the stability of a fixed blade.

Common types of folding knives include:

• Clip Point
• Swiss Army Knife
• Butterfly Knife
• Assisted Opening Knife

Fixed Blade or Folding Knife for Hunting

A common question among first-time hunters and outdoorsmen is which knife is better for hunting, a folding knife or a fixed blade?

The short answer to this is, why not have both?

I find that the more options you have, the more likely you will come up with the right solution.

Folding knives are easy to conceal and store and take up less space than fixed-blade knives, making them a great option to keep in your pocket or jacket in the woods. They can do all sorts of tasks in the woods, from marking trees, cutting rope, tightening screws, or opening plastic-wrapped hand warmers quietly (I learned this the hard way).

Fixed-blade knives are sturdier, faster to deploy, and usually heavier. These knives are an excellent option for skinning and cleaning animals, self-defense, and use as a camp tool if necessary.

There is a time and place for both knives, but overall I prefer the fixed blade for hunting for several reasons.

Concealing a weapon or tool, such as a knife, when hunting is not as crucial as having quick access to it.

In the woods, if something can go wrong, it probably will, so removing the chance of mechanical failure with a folding knife is a good idea.

Skinning and cleaning an animal with a folding knife is a great way to get blood, guts, and hair in the inner workings of the knife. This can cause a malfunction. Stick with the sturdier fixed blade that you can rinse off after.

In a survival or self-defense situation, I prefer the most rugged and robust tool, usually the fixed blade.

That said, folding knives are great to carry in your hunting pack or pockets, and it’s usually the lighter of the two blades. If you’re looking to shave off ounces in a backcountry hunt with lots of hiking, consider going with the folding blade.

EDC

EDC or everyday carry is a phrase we frequently toss around in today’s outdoor and tactical communities. Simply put, it stands for the items you carry on your person throughout everyday life.

A part of people’s EDC is a blade, used as a multi-utility tool or as a line of defense if someone’s life or their loved ones are threatened.

While folding knives tend to be the most popular for EDC, fixed blades have their advantages too.

Size

When it comes to size, folding knives tend to have a smaller footprint, making them ideal for EDC. A fixed-blade knife with the same blade length as a folding knife will be nearly twice the size of a folding knife since it cannot collapse on itself.

Time

Fixed blade knives are already in their position of power when deployed from their sheath. Folding knives require you to remove them from concealment and then deploy the blade. Although there are folding knives with mechanical advantages, such as spring-loaded blades, as a whole, it is much faster to draw a fixed-blade knife.

Concealment

Many individuals don’t want to sacrifice blade length for concealment. This gives folding knives an edge as you can have a folding and a fixed blade with the same overall length, but the folding knife is half the size when closed.

However, plenty of fixed-blade knives come with sheaths that fit inside the pant or belt line and maintain a remarkable level of concealment for small daggers and drop-point knives.

Stability

Probably the most overlooked component of everyday carry when it comes to a blade is the stability of your tool. Folding knives will always be at a disadvantage because the lock could break, the blade could fail to stick in place, or a number of the inner workings could fail.

Fixed-blade knives cannot have a mechanical malfunction as they are one solid piece of metal, usually with a wooden or polymer handle, giving them the advantage.

Camping

When it comes to camping, there are several factors to consider when choosing between a fixed blade or a folding knife.

• Are you hiking to your campsite?
• What other tools are you bringing with you?
• Are you planning on overtly carrying your blade or stowing it away?

When backpacking into your campsite, it’s important to remember that ounces equal pounds on the trail or in the backcountry. Because of this, you may want to consider a folding knife, which frequently takes less space and weighs less than its fixed blade cousin.

If you are bringing other tools to the campsite, a folding knife is an excellent option for backpackers or car campers. The multi-utility blade can be stowed away for easy access and used in situations such as cutting rope, trimming bark, or even as a kitchen utensil.

However, if you don’t plan on bringing multiple camp tools, getting a fixed blade or knife may be a good idea. It can double as a small ax, shovel, or can opener for example.

Finally, if you plan on tucking the knife away in your pocket, backpack, or other carry-along, a folding knife is an excellent choice due to its compact size. However, if you plan on carrying overtly throughout the campsite, a folding knife will provide easy access, faster deployment, and a better option for self-defense.

Fishing

Unlike many other situations where a fixed blade is preferable, a folding knife is the best option for fishing. While this doesn’t completely discount any merits that fixed blades have for fishing, folding knives have several advantages for anglers.

Folding knives often have a clip that helps them retain their position in cargo pockets, pants, or on a belt and are usually lighter than fixed blades. They are often cheaper than fixed-blade knives, and many folding knives have polymer, rubberized, or some textured grip for when things get wet.

For those reasons, folding knives are the better option for angling, in my opinion.

Final Thoughts

The age-old debate on fixed blades or folding knives hasn’t been solved in decades and won’t be solved anytime soon. While folding knives are often smaller, more compact, easy to store, and lighter, they lack the stability and rapid deployment of fixed-blade knives.

Depending on the situation, a fixed-blade knife may serve you better around the campsite or in a deer stand. In contrast, a folding knife may be the most concealable option for everyday carry and an excellent choice for any angler looking to cut line.

No matter what blade you choose, keep it sharp and oiled. If you take care of your life, it will take care of you. As always, good luck, and stay safe out there.

The post Folding vs Fixed Blade Knife (Which to Get When) appeared first on Outdoor Empire.

With so many styles, brands, lengths, and metals to choose from, it can be difficult for novice hunters looking to purchase their first hunting knife to know which blade is best for them.

If you’re looking for a hunting knife that is durable, safe, and multipurpose, you’ll want a 4″ steel fixed blade. The style of knife is a personal preference but you can’t go wrong with a fixed drop-point blade knife. This will provide you with a great multitool that will last for years to come.

With that in mind, let’s look at the types of hunting knives out there and which one is right for you.

Watch our full guide on how to choose a hunting knife on YouTube!

Hunting Knife Blade Types

Fixed-Blade

A fixed-blade knife means that the metal from the blade runs through the handle and is not replaceable or foldable. This leads to increased sturdiness but a longer overall length.

Folding Blade

A folding blade knife has a blade that folds into the handle. Folding knives have a mechanism that locks the blade in the upright position when open but can be closed, making them easier to store. These knives often lack the sturdiness of a fixed blade but have a smaller overall profile when closed.

Interchangeable Blade

This type of knife features a universal handle with a mechanism that locks various blades in place, which can easily be swapped out. From personal experience, this knife lacks the sturdiness of a fixed blade and requires you to carry several blades, which outweighs its interchangeable blade system.

Hunting Knife Blade Metals

When looking at the metal makeup of your blade, it’s important to consider two things:

• Ability to maintain an edge
• Corrosion resistance

If you plan to utilize your hunting knife often, the blade will begin to dull with use. Every time it comes into contact with blood and water (sweat, humidity, rain, snow) increases the chance of rust. Your knife’s ability to withstand these factors will depend on the metal it’s made from.

Carbon Steel

The lower levels of chromium in carbon steel make it less resistant to rust. However, carbon steel is far harder than stainless steel, providing a sharper blade and retaining its edge for longer.

Stainless Steel

Stainless steel does a better job of corrosion resistance. Its higher levels of chromium prevent oxidation of the blade and make it more resistant to flaking and rust. However, it tends to dull faster than carbon steel.

There are a variety of alloys for both kinds of steel, each with its pros and cons. Before purchasing your knife, Google its alloy to check if it’s the right one for you.

Related: 10 Different Uses for Your Hunting Knife

Hunting Knife Styles

Here are a few of the more popular styles of hunting knives on the market.

Buck Knife

Buck Knives is a popular brand who pioneered the folding lock-blade style hunting knife. Their original design has become so popular that people refer to this general design of knife as a buck knife, even when made by other manufacturers. One of the most well-rounded hunting knives, a buck knife usually comes with a wooden or G10 (resin based composite material) handle. Between 3″ to 7″ in length, this blade can skin and gut a deer as easily as it can cut rope or shave wood.

Bowie

Created by Jim Bowie, who died defending the Alamo, this is a classic, fixed-blade hunting knife frequently kept in a sheath. Set in a bone handle, the blade commonly measures between 4″ to 12″ and can easily be used for gutting a deer.

Gutting Knife

Usually a fixed-blade knife, this style has a blade on one side and a gut hook on the backside. Most often set into a polymer or hard plastic handle, the blades generally sit between 2″ to 5″ in length.

Drop Point

An excellent knife for beginners, drop point knives have long, thin blades that make incisions on big game clean and precise. With either a polymer or wooden handle, these come in both folding and fixed configurations at an average length between 3″ and 8.”

Skinning Knife

A knife designed to skin big game, it comes in both folding and fixed configurations, with a razor-sharp, thin blade. The average length of these blades is usually between 2″ to 6″.

What Kind of Hunting Knife to Get

While different hunters will have different opinions, here is my recommendation based on my experience.

Blade Type: Fixed blade is the way to go. Folding knives may have a smaller overall profile, but under hard use, I’ve seen locking mechanisms fail or blades become loose, leading to injury or mangled cuts. Interchangeable blades aren’t recommended as they lack the stability of fixed blades and the profile of folding knives.

Metal: I recommend carbon steel for all hunting knives for the sharpness you can get from the steel and the edge retention. While stainless steel may be more corrosion resistant, if you take care of your knife (wash, scrub, and oil), it will take care of you.

Style: Many of these blades can be a good choice, but with a hunting knife being a multi-utility tool, hunters need a knife that can do it all. I recommend a 4″ – 5″ fixed blade, carbon steel knife. If you can find one with a G10 handle over wood, that is the complete package of hunting knives.

Hunting Knife FAQs

Where can I find a good hunting knife?

Many outdoor stores carry quality hunting knives. Online, Montana Knife Company, Half Face Blades, Winkler Knives, Buck Knives, Gerber, and Benchmade all make quality blades.

What is the best length for a hunting knife?

4″ – 5″ is the optimal length for a quality hunting knife. Any longer, and it becomes heavier and you lose dexterity.

Does the stability of a fixed blade outweigh the size of a folding knife?

I will recommend the quality of a fixed blade over the smaller size of a folding knife every time. A 4″ – 5″ fixed blade is still easily packable in a sheath and will not experience mechanical malfunctions under adverse conditions in the field.

How much does a good hunting knife cost?

This depends on your definition of “good.”

Top-of-the-line hunting knife: $250-$350
Midline hunting knife: $80-120
Budget hunting knife: $35-$60

Before purchasing your first hunting knife, research the brand, model, and steel alloy to ensure you get the best cut for your buck.

The post What Type of Knife is Best for Hunting? (Handles & Styles) appeared first on Outdoor Empire.

For many first-time hunters, selecting the right hunting knife can be difficult. With so many “essential features” advertised, it can be challenging to know what you actually need from your blade.

One of the more common questions asked is, “does my hunting knife need to have a gut hook?”

Because most of the tasks required from a hunting knife can be done without a gut hook, it’s not necessary to have one on your hunting knife. In fact, the gut hook can actually get in the way of many tasks, leading to extra cuts and snags. A better option is to have your primary hunting knife without a gut hook. You could then have an additional backup knife with a gut hook for when you successfully harvest an animal.

However, before we dismiss the gut hook entirely, it is an incredibly effective tool and has its place. Just not on your hunting knife.

Let’s dive deeper into what a gut hook is and how you will use it most often.

Check out our YouTube video on the topic!

What is the gut hook on a hunting knife for?

A gut hook is a specialized feature usually on the back of the knife used for opening skin on the belly or abdomen of deer or other big game.

How it works

Earning its name from its hook-like design, you can use the gut hook in the following ways:

• When the deer is hung upside down, an incision running from midway up one of the legs down to the sternum is made with a corresponding incision running from the other leg making a Y-shaped cut down the length of the abdomen.
• An incision is made at the base of the neck and runs down to the back of two legs forming an upside-down Y.

The purpose of a gut hook is to:

• Create a shallow incision on the deer, usually on the abdomen, to peel back the skin without rupturing any internal organs.
• Open the deer’s abdomen up and remove the organs.

However, in the field, you may also use it for additional tasks, such as:

• Cutting strips in cloth
• Marking trees
• Moving meat on the grill (clean it before doing this.)
• Picking up hot cooking pot lids
• Cracking a cold one

Pros of Gut Hooks

Gut hooks are a great, purpose-driven tool to have in the field. Not only do they make skinning a deer vertically easier, but they can be used for many other tasks listed above.

If the deerskin is tensioned from being suspended by its hindquarters or head, a good gut hook cuts through the skin like a hot knife through butter.

Cons of Gut Hooks

Your hunting knife is meant to be a safe blend of blade, tool, and grip. It shouldn’t slip in your grasp when around water or blood or have other snags or points that make it more dangerous to use during camp or field tasks.

When using a gut hook, the face of the primary blade is facing toward you, and when using the main blade, the gut hook is facing you. This isn’t ideal.

The number one rule of knife safety we were taught in Boy Scouts was to never cut toward yourself or others. That rule is broken with the gut hook, which can lead to some pretty serious injuries.

Are gut hooks worth it?

A gut hook is an excellent tool for a singular task. That task is skinning and gutting a deer, not the usual camp or field functions that are often required of a hunting knife.

My recommendation is to have both a good hunting knife and a second knife with a gut hook.

When using a hunting knife, you should be able to apply leverage to the back of the blade without fear of cuts or snags. Think of it as the multi-tool of your setup, capable of doing everything you need, including skinning if required.

The gut hook then becomes something you stow in your pack, on your 4-wheeler, or in your truck for when you emerge victorious from the woods. You can unsheath it, skin and gut your kill and then return it to its sheath after cleaning; a job well done.

FAQs

Do I need a gut hook for deer?

You can gut and skin a deer with most knives that are sharp enough to pierce its hide. That said, a gut hook does make the process easier and the cuts cleaner. I keep mine stored on the 4-wheeler or in my pack until it’s time to use.

Can you use a gut hook for more than cleaning deer?

A gut hook is great for much more than just cleaning a deer. It often is used for cutting twine, small ropes, and even seatbelts in emergencies. I also may have used it to crack a celebratory cold one during skinning.

Should I have a fixed blade or a folding gut hook?

A fixed blade is a better option with a gut hook than a folding gut hook. A folding gut hook means the blade face is in the handle, and the hook is facing outwards when stowed. I owned a folding gut hook for five minutes until it caught the inside of the pocket of my camouflage pants and filleted it open.

Never again.

Can I sharpen my gut hook?

You can sharpen your gut hook, though I have found this much harder than sharpening a regular blade. I recommend seeking out a bladesmith or sending it back to the manufacturer to have it done professionally.

The post Should a Hunting Knife Have a Gut Hook (Pros and Cons) appeared first on Outdoor Empire.

You never want to be caught out in the wilderness with the wrong equipment, especially when it comes to your knife. Your knife can be a tool of many uses and is essential in the outdoors.

If you’re in the market for an outdoor knife, you’ve probably seen some called a survival knife and others called a camping knife. So which one should you get? What are the differences between a survival knife and a camping knife?

The primary difference between a camping knife and a survival knife is its size. Both are variations of the bushcraft knife, a knife designed for various outdoor tasks. Camp knives are smaller and stouter, built for durability. Survival knives are longer and often have serrations on the spine.

Both kinds of knives will likely be able to fill the needs you have around your campsite, but the small difference in size between the two actually serves several purposes that make them a little more specialized than you might expect.

What is a Bushcraft Knife?

Modern bushcraft knives are based on a Scandinavian philosophy that prescribes a small, sharp knife for pretty much all of your needs around the campsite.

It’s important to note that neither survival knives nor camp knives are necessarily designed to be used as weapons. While any bladed object can cut through various materials and anything with a sharp point can be used to stab, these knives are first and foremost tools for survival.

Unless you’re some kind of a knife-fighting savant, you probably want something else to use for self-defense. Especially if you plan on being out in the wilderness and are afraid you might be attacked by a wild animal.

Camping Knives

Camping knives have a fixed blade that is only a few inches long and a thick, square spine built for durability and functionality. They are great for use as a baton when splitting wood, as their blades are sturdy and somewhat flat on the spine.

They are also great to use while wood-crafting because they are small and maneuverable enough that you can get into tight crevices in the wood and carve details well.

Their tips are often drop-point, which makes them great for scraping and digging, without the tip breaking off. This makes them extremely useful in a variety of situations.

These smaller knives are primarily designed for reliability. While they aren’t indestructible, a sturdy camp knife should last you for years if you take good care of it.

Survival Knives

Survival knives are bigger than camping knives and can be up to six inches long. They can be used as a machete when you need to bushwhack through a trail or cut down pesky branches.

To ensure that these longer knives are durable, they have to be thicker and thus slightly heavier than a kitchen knife of the same size. This makes them less maneuverable but tougher and more sturdy.

The extra blade length also allows many survival knives to have a serrated edge on the spine or edge of the blade. These can be very useful in many situations, especially when you’re cutting rope or cutting through small pieces of wood. Survival knives are also often much sharper than camping knives.

Things To Look Out For

There are many different substandard camping knives on the market. Here are some gimmicks to avoid.

Folding Knives

Knives that fold in on themselves have a built-in failure point that can seriously hurt their longevity. Likewise, cheaper knives may be made from cheaper parts that break easily.

Swiss Army Knives

It’s also important that you don’t mistake a swiss army knife for a camp knife. Swiss army knives are certainly useful tools that have a place in many survivalist kits. However, they lack the durability and thickness to be your only tool around the campsite.

Serrated Blades

Survival knives are also victims of all sorts of strange gimmick products. Survival knives where the entire blade is serrated may look cool, but they have almost no functionality in the real world. They are too short to work as a saw, but the serrated edge makes them entirely useless for carving.

Survival Kit Knives

You may also see knives on the market that look like survival kits and knives all rolled into one. They are advertised as having survival items, such as matches or fishing line, stowed in the handle.

While this may seem like a good idea, the knife itself is usually much more delicate than you would want in a survival situation. And the hollow handle makes it more prone to breaking. They’re just a bad idea all around.

Which Kind of Knife Do I Need?

What kind of knife you need will depend on what you want to do with it. It’s not a bad idea to have both a survival knife and a camping knife in your outdoor gear.

If you plan on going on a long hike and wish to conserve weight, a camping knife will be better because it is smaller. If size and weight restrictions aren’t a concern, a survival knife is a workhorse and would be a solid choice.

What To Buy

We have a great article addressing exactly this question. We wrote detailed reviews of the best survival knives on the market. Read through those reviews to find the knife that’s the best fit for you and your needs.

If you want to get your knife online without any further reading, we recommend the ESEE-4 and the ESEE-6. They are essentially the same knife, the first being 4.5 inches long and the latter 6.5 inches long. They have everything you’d want in a bushcraft knife.

The post Camping Knife vs Survival Knife: What You Need to Know appeared first on Outdoor Empire.

Hunting knives are extremely useful tools, but many people don’t use them to their full capacity. Hunting knives are surprisingly versatile.

A hunting knife can be used for many things on a hunting trip. Your knife can be used for anything from skinning and gutting an animal to cutting small branches out of your view. If you find a knife you love it can be used for many purposes such as for hunting, fishing, and camping.

What Qualifies as a Hunting Knife?

A hunting knife is any knife that is used during hunting to prepare your game to be eaten. Hunting knives are made to cut through animal skin, bone, and muscle, so any sharp and durable knife able to do so qualifies as a hunting knife.

Hunting knives come in various sizes, but they are typically 3.5-4.5 inches long. Your hunting knife can have a large fixed blade and come with a sheath. This makes it useful for attaching the knife to your belt for easy access when you need it. It can also be a knife that has a non-fixed blade that can be folded into itself. Most of the time, folding hunting knives are small enough to fit in your pocket. 

Nowadays, some companies are making hunting knives that have interchangeable blades, which makes them much more versatile. However, many hunters don’t like these hunting knives because they have to bring multiple blades with them. This makes it tricky when they are trying to keep their gear light.

Hunting knives are considered essential for all hunters to bring on a hunting trip. They are extremely versatile and are necessary when you need to skin, debone, and butcher a dead animal. 

Recommended: Best Hunting Knives for Big Game Hunters

Uses For a Hunting Knife

Below is a list of things you can do with a hunting knife, including what you can use it for outside of hunting.

1. Skin Animals

One of the primary uses for hunting knives is skinning animals. The blade of a hunting knife is solid and sharp enough to cut through thick animal fur and skin. Also, the often-thick handle of a hunting knife allows hunters to easily control where the hunting knife goes.

Many hunters use their favorite hunting knife to skin their game. This is especially true when hunting in a remote area and they want to skin the meat quickly so they can pack it and take it home easily.

Large hunting knives are used to skin large game like deer, bears, and moose. Small hunting knives are used to skin small game like squirrels and rabbits.

2. Dispatch a Game Animal

Sometimes, when someone shoots an animal, the animal doesn’t die right away. The humane thing to do is to keep the animal from suffering unnecessarily. However, many hunters don’t want to shoot the animal again.

Instead, they use their hunting knife to dispatch the animal. They will often slit the animal’s throat with their knife, as that is the quickest and most humane way to kill an animal with a hunting knife.

However, hunting knives are typically not the first tool that hunters use to kill animals because it is nearly impossible to get close enough to an animal to slit its throat unless it has been severely wounded. This should be a last resort. Proceed with extreme caution.

3. Field-Dress/Gut

Hunting knives are often used to remove the entrails of dead game animals. This is also called field dressing, and to enjoy the meat of an animal, you must first remove the internal organs via field dressing. This is generally done immediately in the field before skinning an animal in order to accelerate the cooling process of the meat.

Hunting knives are used for field dressing because the blades are durable and are sharp enough to easily cut away the tendons and sinew that connect an animal’s internal organs to the rest of its body.

Because of the size of many hunting knives, the process of field dressing game is completed quickly and easily. This means you can spend less time digging through the carcass of an animal and get back home.

4. Debone Game

Many hunters use their hunting knives to debone animals that they have killed. Hunting knives are sharp enough to cut away muscle and tendons, and they sometimes have a gut hook that hunters can use to scrape everything off of the bones.

Hunting knives are durable and sharp, so they won’t get dull very quickly, even if you use them to scrape away muscle and tissue from animal bones. Normal kitchen knives would become dull extremely quickly if you used them to debone an animal. Even still, you may need a sharpener in your pack to if you’ll be deboning a large animal like an elk in the field so you can more easily pack it out.

5. Butcher Meat

Sharp hunting knives cut through meat, muscles, tendons, and skin like they are butter. At least when the knife is new or recently sharpened. This makes it easy for hunters to butcher animals that they killed.

Oftentimes hunters need to cut through bone to get to organs and meat. Large hunting knives are sharp enough to do so, especially when hunters cut through small bones. Other times a bone saw is required.

A good hunting knife enables hunters to prep and store animal meat quickly, so it is fresh when they are ready to season and eat it.

6. Cut Back Small Trees and Branches

Hunting knives are not only used on animals after they’ve been harvested. They can be used to cut down small trees and branches. Sometimes these branches are blocking your view or shot and it’s necessary to clear them out.

This will help you see animals that are within shooting range. You can also cut branches and put them together to help you blend in with the landscape so animals won’t be able to see you.

Hunting knives are also helpful when you need to build a fire. To make a successful fire, you need kindling. You can use your hunting knife to cut dry branches off a tree or large fallen log.

7. Cut Rope

Hunting knives can be used to cut rope, even if it is quite thick and made to resist cutting. It may take a few minutes, but your hunting knife will eventually cut through the rope.

Bring a hunting knife with you when you go camping if you are bringing rope with you. Although you can bring a rope cutter, hunting knives are more versatile.

8. Defend Yourself

In an emergency, you can use a hunting knife to defend yourself from an animal attack. This is extremely rare and certainly not the optimal line of defense. But if an animal wanders into your camp and you can’t scare it off, your hunting knife could be used for protection. 

9. Clean Fish

You can use a hunting knife to kill, butcher, and remove the skin and scales of the fish that you catch. Although you won’t be able to use your hunting knife to actually catch fish, a hunting knife will help you prepare the fish to be eaten.

This is especially helpful if you are camping while on a fishing trip and want to enjoy the fruits of your labor during your next meal.

10. Cutlery

Hunting knives can be used as cutlery in a pinch. This isn’t their primary purpose so many people avoid using them in this capacity. It may be better to avoid using them as a dinner knife since you’ve likely used them on raw meat. However, if you properly sanitize your hunting knife, it should be fine to use for cooked food.

If you choose to use your hunting knife to cut your food, make sure you clean it thoroughly with soap and hot water. Make sure you clean all of the small crevices and the handle. This will ensure that the knife is clean enough to cut your food.

Are Hunting Knives Worth It?

Hunting knives are worth both the cost and the hassle if you plan to go hunting with any regularity. For your first trip or two you could plan to use a buddy’s knife if you’re together, but having your own will be necessary if you continue to hunt.

The price of hunting knives can vary widely. You can find them anywhere from $20-$350 or more. Generally, the more expensive knives will be better quality with sharper blades. They may also come with two knives or another versatile tool that you can use while hunting.

Overall, hunting knives are versatile tools that most hunters consider essential. If you go hunting regularly you should be prepared to field dress and take care of the animals you harvest. A hunting knife is essential for being a self-sufficient hunter.

Before purchasing a hunting knife, determine your budget and ask your hunting friends what they use and would recommend. Nothing beats the recommendation of a seasoned hunter.

Related: Best Survival Knives Reviewed (Fixed Blade and Folding)

The post What Hunting Knives Are Used For (10 Different Uses) appeared first on Outdoor Empire.

Felling a tree, splitting firewood, pounding wedges, removing limbs – the uses for an axe are countless.

During my time as a logger and trail maintenance pro, my trusty single-bit was a constant companion.

My years of day-in, day-out experience have taught me a few simple guidelines to make the most of this classic staple of the woodsman’s life.

Axe Safety

How to Transport an Axe

It’s easy to ignore proper transport techniques, which is why you should be deliberate about them. Negligence and failures in situational awareness are frequent contributors to accidents and injury.

When transporting an axe in a vehicle, take a moment to secure it. In the unlikely event of an accident, anything in a vehicle has the potential to become a high-speed projectile. If your vehicle has a locking toolbox, it will make an excellent home for your axe. There are also custom mounts available for long-handled hand tools as well.

Note: The proper term for the cutting edge of an axe is the “bit.” However, for purposes of clarity in this article, I have used the alternate and commonly-accepted term “blade.”

When carrying an axe over a long distance on foot, keep its blade covered. There are a variety of inexpensive covers available for sale, and it’s a preventive safety measure too effective to ignore. 

If you’re transporting an axe over a long distance or uneven terrain, there are a couple of carrying methods by which you can decrease the risk of accident or injury.  

• Avoid the temptation to carry an axe over your shoulder, as it’s a good general rule to keep cutting surfaces at a reasonable distance from your face and head. 
• Carry your axe by the handle with your hand choked up just below the head, with the axe blade facing downward. 
• As with all tools, you should carry it on the downslope side of the trail when hiking. 
• If you’re traveling a longer distance and won’t need to use your axe regularly along the way, you can strap it to a backpack. With the axehead securely covered, strap the axe head-down using at least two exterior pack straps. The blade should be facing to the rear.

How to Use an Axe Safely

When preparing to use an axe, situational awareness is vital. You are about to swing a sharp, heavy piece of steel at a high rate of speed. Take a moment to think about what’s around you, above you, and beneath you. Follow these steps to use an axe safely:

1. Ensure the Area is Clear

A good rule of thumb is to hold the axe horizontally in one hand with your arm at full extension, then double the distance from your body to the far end of the tool. This radius is the distance you should maintain from others when using an axe.  

Clear your work area of tripping hazards and overhead hazards.

2. Consider How What You are Cutting will Respond

It’s also worth your while to consider the effects of your cut. Chopping logs, splitting wood, and felling trees are all actions which release kinetic energy. 

A mental checklist of the following questions is a key element of situational awareness when preparing to use an axe.

• Is the thing you’re cutting under tension?
• What will happen when that tension is released?
• What will happen when that tree falls?
• When is that limb severed?
• What will happen if your cut is inaccurate and you miss what you’re swinging for?

3. Wear PPE

In your final preparation, before using an axe, put on personal protective equipment (PPE). Foremost among this gear is eye protection, which will shield you against flying wood chips. I also recommend gloves to enhance your grip.

4. Assume a Proper Stance

Place your feet in a wide stance for stability, making sure that your feet are not in the path of your swing. The vast majority of axe-related injuries occur to the feet and lower legs. You can protect yourself from these common accidents by simply paying attention to your foot placement in relation to the path of your swing.  

5. Call Out Before You Cut

Finally, before you begin, loudly announce, “Swinging!” to alert those nearby of your intentions to use the tool.

Related: Best Axes for Splitting, Felling, and Camping

Axe Sharpening and Maintenance

How to Sharpen an Axe

As with all sharp-edged tools, such as knives and saws, an axe is safest when it’s sharp. A sharp tool is much more likely to do what the user intends for it to do, and this predictability of use is a good thing.

A dull axe may be prone to glancing blows, in which the edge of the axe bounces off the target. A sharp axe sinks into the wood as intended.

Sharpening an axe is a relatively straightforward procedure, although it takes some practice to perfect the technique. Follow these steps to ensure a safe experience and a sharp axe.

1. Wear Gloves and Safety Glasses

First and foremost, it’s essential to wear the proper protective gear while sharpening. This process involves moving one’s hand toward a sharp surface and grinding away fine metal shavings. Heavy leather gloves and eye protection are therefore essential.

2. Stabilize the Axe

The trickiest part of sharpening an axe is stabilizing the tool. To sharpen safely and maintain a consistent angle, you’ll want to make sure that the axe is immobilized. The best way to do this is to clamp the axe head into a vise. In the field, or in the absence of a vise, you can lean the axe head against a rock or large stick and hold it down with a boot. This is obviously a less-than-ideal configuration, but it’s worked for me in a pinch many times. 

3. Select the Right Sharpening Tool

My preferred tool for sharpening an axe is a mill bastard single-cut file. This type of file is coarse enough to get the job done quickly but fine enough that it likely won’t need finishing work.  

Most single bastard files have a narrow, pointed end called the tang, designed to fit inside a handle. At the opposite end from the tang is the blunt end of the file, called the tip.  

4. Sharpen the Axe Edge Thin to Thick

You’ll want to sharpen your tool edge thin to thick and tip to tang. This means you will begin each file stroke at the thinnest part of the axe edge and move toward the thicker part; you are sharpening into the blade. It should be clear now why you need heavy gloves for this process! 

Here are some general guidelines for the sharpening process:

• You will lead with the tip of the file to ensure proper contact between the cutting teeth of the file and the surface of the axe head: thin to thick, tip to tang.
• You’re looking to hold the file at an angle of approximately thirty degrees, and you will want to maintain this angle carefully throughout each stroke of the file. This is a skill that comes with lots of practice. 
• Each stroke of the file should begin at one tip of the blade and finish at the far tip so that the entirety of the blade is covered with each stroke. 
• Use an equal number of strokes for each side of the blade to ensure even wear on the tool.   

How to Maintain an Axe

As with any tool, an axe will benefit from light, routine maintenance. After each use, use a damp cloth to wipe away any dirt and debris from the head and handle.

How to Remove and Prevent Rust on an Axe

The greatest threat to any metal tool is rust, which causes pitting in the steel of the axe head and generally decreases its lifespan. It’s an excellent general rule to deal with rust early and often. 

Apply a small amount of WD-40 or similar lubricant to any rust spots on the axe head and buff them away with fine steel wool. With gloved hands, use a cloth or shop towel to apply a fine coating of WD-40 to the entire surface area of the axe head before storage. This will prevent rust by protecting the steel from ambient moisture during storage.  

How and When to Oil an Axe Handle

Axe handles may be manufactured from a variety of materials. Synthetic handles are pretty stable and require very little maintenance beyond a regular light cleaning.

In the case of wood handles, however, more thorough maintenance is required. You’ll want to protect and preserve the wood in the axe handle.

Linseed oil is an inexpensive, widely-available natural oil that has been used as a simple wood preservative for centuries. Using gloved hands and a shop cloth, give your axe handle a very light coating. Make sure to cover the entire handle, including the bottom tip and the exposed grain around the fitting wedge where the handle fits into the head at the top of the tool. Although it’s not imperative, you won’t do any harm applying a second coat once the first one absorbs.

It’s only necessary to oil the axe once a year.

When and How to Change the Handle

Fitting an axe head to its handle is referred to as “hanging” the head, and it is a periodic necessity throughout the tool’s life. Wood shrinks and expands with moisture and temperature and wears away with use.

If the head of your axe is loose enough to wiggle with your hand, or you notice the position of it changing, even slightly, as you use it, it’s time to consider re-hanging it.

Never use an axe with a loose head!  Also, avoid the temptation to drive nails into the end grain of the handle where it fits into the head in an attempt to jury-rig a wedge.

1. Select a Good Handle

The first step in hanging an axe head is selecting a good handle. When choosing one, take a look at the end grain of the wood, where it will fit into the head. You’re looking for straight grain that runs parallel to the axe head. This will decrease the likelihood of breaking the handle by applying pressure across the grain.

2. Fit Axe Handle into Axe Head

Next, insert the split end of the axe handle into the axe head. Use a wooden mallet to lightly tap the head into a snug fit. There should be a bit of the handle protruding through the top of the axe head. Before you apply wedges to finalize the fit, take a moment to ensure that the head is positioned correctly.

Rest the axe horizontally, blade facing down, on the ground, a workbench, or other flat surfaces. It is here you will need to learn a bit of specialized axe terminology. The topmost point of the axe blade is the toe, and the bottom of the axe blade is the heel. For a full-size axe, the blade of a properly-fitted head in this position should rest on the flat surface at two-thirds of the blade’s distance from the toe.

For a picture worth a thousand of my words, check out the official guidance of the U.S. Government on the subject right here.

3. Secure Head in Place with Wedges

Once the head is in its proper position, use wedges to secure the head in place. This is a two-phase process.

The first of these phases is to insert a wooden wedge, which comes packaged with most axe handles. Insert the narrow side of the wedge into the space between the two halves of the axe handle, as depicted here. Apply a thin coat of wood glue to each side of the wooden wedge, then pound it tightly with a mallet or hammer. Allow time for the glue to dry. This first wedging step applies outward pressure along a perpendicular axis to the axe head.  

At this point, there should be an excess length of handle and wedge protruding beyond the axe head. Using a hand saw or reciprocating saw, cut this off so that the end of the handle is flush with the axe head. 

After doing this, you can proceed to the second phase of the wedging process, which is the insertion of metal wedges. This step intends to apply wedging force outward on an axis parallel to the axe head.

There are a variety of steel wedges available in different shapes and sizes. Round wedges can be pounded directly into the center of the axe head, like so. You can pound straight wedges perpendicular to the wooden wedge. Be sure to pound the wedge in until it’s flush with the surface of the wood; a nailset may be useful here.

Conclusion

With proper care and maintenance, a good axe will serve you well for many years. Know your tools and make it a priority to use them safely and responsibly. With practice, your familiarity and skill with your axe will increase, and your confidence will grow along with it.

Related: Best Survival Axes and Hatchets

The post A Guide to Axe Safety and Maintenance appeared first on Outdoor Empire.

With a knife, you can:

• Make clothes
• Make shelter
• Harvest plants
• Create fishing equipment
• Craft hunting weapons
• Create traps
• Skin game
• Prepare food
• Build a fire
• Defend against attackers
• …and more

However, the emphasis is on a good knife. A bad knife is not only ineffective but also potentially dangerous.

You don’t want a knife that will break when you need to prepare kindling. You also don’t want a knife that’s too dull to cut through a rope or one that will slip out of sweaty hands.

Many folks already carry EDC knives that can, in a pinch, be used in survival situations. But outdoor survival knives are larger, tougher, and often have a fixed blade.

There are some good survival knives with a folding blade, though!

Many manufacturers make great survival knives. It’s a highly-competitive field, but the following knives stand ahead of the pack.

The 10 Best Survival Knives of 2021: Outdoor Empire Reviews

1. Best Budget: Morakniv Companion
2. Best Fighting Knife: Ontario 499 Air Force Survival Knife
3. Best for Batoning: Fallkniven A1
4. Best for Chopping: Tops Tom Brown Tracker
5. Best Emergency: Survivor HK-106320-A
6. Best for the Money: Ka-Bar Becker BK-22 Campanion
7. Best Overall: ESEE 6P
8. Best Budget Folding: Gerber Bear Grylls Survival AO Knife
9. Best Folding for the Money: Buck Knives 110 LT Drop Point Folding Hunter
10. Best Overall Folding: Opinel No. 8 Outdoor

Category	Best for Bushcrafting	Best for the Money	Best Overall Folding
Product	Fallkniven A1	Ka-Bar Becker BK-22 Campanion	Opinel No. 8 Outdoor
Blade Shape	Drop point	Drop point	Yatagan with serrations
Blade Material	Laminated VG10	1095 Cro-Van stainles steel	Sandvik 12C27 stainless steel
Blade Length	6.2 in	5.25 in	3.35 in
Overall Length	11 in	10.5 in	0.1 in
Handle Material	Kraton	Ultramid	Polymer
Cost	Check Price	Check Price	Check Price

1. Best Budget Survival Knife: Morakniv Companion

• Blade Shape: Clip point
• Blade Material: Sandvik 12C27 stainless steel or 1095 carbon steel
• Blade Length: 4.1″
• Blade Thickness: 0.1″ or 0.08″
• Overall Length: 8.6″
• Handle Material: Rubber and polymer
• Handle Colors: Black, cyan, desert tan, gray, green, magenta, military green, navy blue, orange
• Fixed or Folding? Fixed
• Misc: Polymer sheath
• Tang: 3/4

Overview

Let’s start with what is quite possibly the most recommended bushcrafting knife: the Morakniv Companion.

Mora makes no-nonsense, inexpensive blades designed for people who need to survive in the woods. There’s a lot of overlap between bushcrafting and survival because bushcrafting is two-thirds surviving, one-third hobby.

The Morakniv Companion is available with two types of steel: 12C27 stainless steel or 1095 carbon steel, giving you options whether you prefer corrosion resistance or a better edge.

The handle is polymer and rubber, making it comfortable and grippy whether hot or cold, wet or dry.

The blade is well sized for both light and heavy tasks. You can chop through a branch and then whittle it into a feather stick.

However, don’t baton with a Companion unless you have a backup knife. The tang only goes three-quarters of the way through the handle.

The Companion has other versions as well, including the Heavy Duty and Rescue.

Pros

• Good Swedish steel
• Inexpensive
• Versatile

Cons

• Doesn’t come sharp
• Lacks a full tang

Recommendation

Every bushcrafter or prepper should own a Morakniv companion. It’s the standard by which other survival knives are measured and is far cheaper than most other quality blades.

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2. Best Fighting Knife: Ontario 499 Air Force Survival Knife

• Blade Shape: Clip point
• Blade Material: 1095 carbon steel
• Blade Length: 5″
• Blade Thickness: 0.1875″
• Overall Length: 9″
• Handle Material: Leather
• Fixed or Folding? Fixed
• Tang: Rat-tail
• Misc: Leather sheath with sharpening stone

Overview

The Ontario 499 Air Force survival knife was designed as a piece of emergency kit for pilots who might be shot down over enemy territory.

It’s similar to other Ontario knives, such as the USMC fighting knife, but is made more for survival than for fighting. You can still stick a pig with it, though!

The 5-inch blade is thick enough to survive cutting a hole through an aircraft’s skin. It’s more than up to the task of processing firewood. Though, the tang is rat-tail instead of full, so while it can baton through small logs, you won’t want to do this constantly.

The handle is made from leather and provides ample grip through a wide range of conditions. The blade is very thick at 0.1875 inches. The clip point is great for stabbing. The back is serrated but not deeply enough to use it as a wood saw.

The pommel is heavy steel, so you can use it as a hammer if you need to.

The leather sheath even includes a sharpening stone, which you’ll need to maintain the 1095 carbon steel edge.

Pros

• Heavy-duty pommel
• Sharpening stone in sheath
• Very tough blade

Cons

• Heavy

Recommendation

The Ontario 499 Air Force survival knife is an old-school knife that’s been used by everybody from cub scouts to military pilots to thrive in the woods.

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3. Best Survival Knife for Batoning: Fallkniven A1

• Blade Shape: Drop point
• Blade Material: Laminated VG10
• Blade Length: 6.2″
• Blade Thickness: 0.23″
• Overall Length: 11″
• Handle Material: Kraton
• Fixed or Folding? Fixed
• Tang: Full
• Misc: Zytel sheath

Overview

The Fallkniven A1 blends Japanese steel with Swedish design for an amazing survival knife that can handle any task you demand of it.

You can tell as soon as you hold this knife that a lot of thought went into its design. It balances well and feels natural in the hand. The shape is simple but very effective.

The blade is 6.2 inches long. This may be longer than ideal for some tasks, but the A1 will still work for them. The modified drop point gives you control to the very end.

What’s notable about the blade is its width. At almost a quarter inch thick, it’s extremely tough. A Kraton handle covers the full tang. Combine the tang and blade thickness and you have a survival knife you can use as a bludgeon.

This and the straight back almost all the way from tip to pommel lets you baton this blade through any wood in the world!

There’s even an exposed section of the tang, so you can use the pommel as a hammer.

The A1 has a VG10 high-carbon steel core covered in 420J2 stainless steel to blend the best qualities of both stainless and carbon steels.

Pros

• Laminated steel blade
• Good for all survival knife tasks

Cons

• Expensive
• Some users have reported chips in the edge

Recommendation

The Fallkniven A1 is one of the best survival knives and is the toughest one you can find, if you like whacking your knife to cut through logs.

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4. Best Survival Knife for Chopping: Tops Tom Brown Tracker

• Blade Shape: Tracker
• Blade Material: 1095 carbon steel
• Blade Length: 6.25″
• Blade Thickness: 0.25″
• Overall Length: 11.875″
• Handle Material: Micarta
• Fixed or Folding? Fixed
• Tang: Full
• Misc: Kydex sheath

Overview

Renowned tracker Tom Brown Jr. designed the Tracker knife as an all-purpose survival knife after being questioned if the perfect survival knife existed. It eventually made its way into a 2001 movie called The Hunted.

The 6.25-inch blade has a unique design with a semi-circular front, hooked midsection, and sawback. The idea is for this knife to be able to handle any task you might need in the woods.

It excels at chopping and is basically half survival hatchet. The other tasks, though?

Well, the hooked portion is a passable draw knife. You can carve feather sticks because the micarta handle and jimping give you good control. However, the knife is overall balanced too far forward for delicate tasks.

The saw portion is good for notching but not as good for actually sawing. It does, however, chew through any piece of wood you’ll use to baton with this knife, which seems counterproductive.

Overall, the Tracker knife is a passable multipurpose blade that shines best when chopping.

Unlike many knives, it comes with a manual that explains all the ways you can use this knife.

Pros

• Comes with a manual
• Great at chopping
• Multipurpose

Cons

• Poor batoning because of the sawback location
• Somewhat unwieldy for finer tasks
• Very expensive

Recommendation

The Tracker knife is controversial in the bushcrafting and survival world. Some people love it and others hate it. It’s still a great chopping knife, though!

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5. Best Emergency Survival Knife: Survivor HK-106320-A

• Blade Shape: Tanto
• Blade Material: Stainless steel
• Blade Length: 3″
• Blade Thickness: 0.16″
• Overall Length: 7″
• Handle Material: Nylon cord
• Fixed or Folding? Fixed
• Tang: Full
• Misc: Nylon sheath,  firestarter rod

Overview

The Survivor HK-106320-A is a bit small for a survival knife. The blade is made from an unstated form of stainless steel, so that’s not the best either, though it is in an effective Tanto style and has good jimping.

The Survivor HK-106320-A is not a good primary survival knife.

However, it’s both easily concealed and very cheap.

Under ten dollars.

In fact, you can buy an eight-pack of these knives and still not spend as much money as some of the knives on this list!

This makes the Survivor HK-106320-A an excellent backup or emergency knife. Especially with the included magnesium fire starter rod and nylon cord handle, which unravels for when you need cordage.

You can toss one in your backpack, glovebox, boot, each pair of pants you own, and anywhere else you can think of, so you will always have this knife no matter what happens to you.

It doesn’t matter if you own the best survival knife if you’ve left it at home. The best survival knife is the one you have with you, and it’s easy to have a Survivor HK-106320-A with you.

Pros

• Comes with a magnesium fire starter
• Concealable
• Extremely inexpensive
• Removable cord handle

Cons

• Not a good primary knife
• Small

Recommendation

The Survivor HK-106320-A may not be the biggest or strongest survival knife out there, but it’s small enough to hide anywhere and is cheap enough for you to have one, or eight, on hand.

6. Best Survival Knife for the Money: Ka-Bar Becker BK-22 Campanion

• Blade Shape: Drop point
• Blade Material: 1095 Cro-Van stainles steel
• Blade Length: 5.25″
• Blade Thickness: 0.25″
• Overall Length: 10.5″
• Handle Material: Ultramid
• Fixed or Folding? Fixed
• Tang: Full
• Misc: MOLLE compatible polyester sheath

Overview

No, you read that correctly: This knife by Ka-Bar is the Becker BK-22 Campanion. Not “companion.” Even if some of the official materials says differently. There was an intern who thought they were oh-so-clever by using a spellchecker, I imagine.

The Campanion is a heavy-duty survival knife designed to “work for a living,” according to Ka-Bar.

The blade is 5.25 inches long and a quarter inch thick. It has a fat drop point and is 1.625 inches wide, making this a hefty boy. It’s good for chopping, prying, and batoning.

The flat grind is also good for finer tasks, such as skinning game and preparing food, even though the knife is large.

The Campanion is well balanced but might be too large for people with small hands.

The holster is MOLLE compatible, making this knife a good match for a tactical backpack. There are actually two Campanion models:

• BK-2 with a hard-plastic sheath
• BK-22 with a soft polyester sheath

I prefer the softer sheath because it has a pocket for a sharpening stone. That stone isn’t included, unfortunately.

Pros

• Comes with your choice of hard or soft sheath
• Full tang with exposed section for hammering
• Thick and heavy blade that can baton, chop, and pry

Cons

• Delicate tasks might be difficult
• Might be too large for small hands

Recommendation

The Ka-Bar Becker BK-22 Campanion is a great survival knife that can survive whatever you throw at it, but it might not be a good fit for every hand.

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7. Best Overall Survival Knife: ESEE 6P

• Blade Shape: Drop point
• Blade Material: 1095 carbon steel
• Blade Length: 6.5″
• Blade Thickness: 0.1875″
• Overall Length: 11.75″
• Handle Material: Micarta
• Fixed or Folding? Fixed
• Tang: Full
• Misc: Molded polymer sheath

Overview

The ESEE-6P is not a very impressive looking knife. However, it hits every point you need for a survival knife.

It has a long, wide blade made from 1095 carbon steel that can hold a good edge and still be used for prying and batoning. There’s subtle yet effective jimping on the spine for greater control. A black-powder coating protects against corrosion.

The Micarta handles are removable if you need to clean blood from underneath them. They cover almost all of the tang except for the lanyard hole and a portion you can use for hammering.

The blade may be wide, but the 6P is not a heavy knife. It’s heavy enough for chopping, sure, but it won’t be too heavy to wear you out. In fact, it’s surprisingly effective at finer tasks like whittling!

The 6P comes with a molded polymer sheath that retains the knife well. It has a belt clip instead of a belt loop, if that matters to you.

The only downside to this blade is minor. Both the blade and handles are very hard, so you feel the full impact of every swing.

Finally, ESEE has a wonderful warranty. If you break your 6P for any reason, they will repair or replace it, even if you’re not the original owner!

Pros

• Excellent warranty
• Hammer section on pommel
• Jimping
• Surprisingly lightweight

Cons

• Expensive
• Little shock absorption

Recommendation

The ESEE 6P is my favorite of all survival knives. It’s strong, lightweight, comfortable in the hand, and very versatile.

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8. Best Budget Folding Survival Knife:  Gerber Bear Grylls Survival AO Knife

• Blade Shape: Drop point with serrations
• Blade Material: 7Cr17MoV stainless steel
• Blade Length: 3″
• Blade Thickness: 0.125″
• Overall Length: 7.4″
• Handle Material: Fiberglass-reinforced nylon with rubber overmolding
• Fixed or Folding? Folding
• Misc: Spring assisted opening

Overview

I’m typically not a fan of Bear-Grylls-branded survival items, but the Gerber Bear Grylls Survival AO Knife surprised me with its features and quality.

One of my problems with folding knives is how most of them have a liner lock. Liner locks require you to put your finger in the blade’s path as you start to fold the blade closed.

Yikes!

The Bear Grylls Survival AO knife, though, has a plunger lock. That’s a button on the side, greatly reducing your chances of slicing your finger open during a survival situation.

Opening the knife is easy too, with the FAST 2.0 spring-assisted opening mechanism. Undo the safety and flick the knife open using either of the two thumb studs.

This covers the second major problem with folding knives in that they’re rarely as ambidextrous as fixed blades.

The blade is Chinese 7Cr17MoV stainless steel that’s good enough. Not the best, but not the worst.

The handle is bright orange fiberglass-reinforced nylon and rubber. You’ll have a hard time losing this knife.

Keep in mind that, as a folding knife, you won’t be able to abuse this knife as much as a fixed blade.

Pros

• Comfortable handle
• FAST 2.0 assisted opening
• Plunger lock

Cons

• Break-in required

Recommendation

The Gerber Bear Grylls Survival AO Knife is a good folding knife for survival operations and is pretty inexpensive as well.

9. Best Folding Survival Knife for the Money: Buck Knives 110 LT Drop Point Folding Hunter

• Blade Shape: Drop
• Blade Material: 420HC stainless steel
• Blade Length: 3.75″
• Blade Thickness: 0.12″
• Overall Length: 8.5″
• Handle Material: Polyester
• Fixed or Folding? Folding
• Misc: Nylon sheath

Overview

Buck Knives’ 110 Folding Hunter is a 50-year-old design that’s still used by hunters and outdoorsmen today. The drop point LT version is even better for survival situations.

The normal 110 has ebony scales with brass bolsters and also has a clip point. The LT has a textured polyester handle that reduces weight and increases weather resistance.

It also has a drop point, which is not quite as effective for fine detail work, such as carving, but it’s more durable for survival tasks. You won’t baton a folder, but this version of the Folding Hunter can survive tougher tasks than many other folding knives.

The blade is 3.75 inches long and is made from 420HC stainless steel. Buck uses a proprietary heat-treating method to make their 420HC superior to the same steel by other manufacturers. It’s more corrosion and wear resistant.

Also, the lock is on the back, not in the blade’s path, keeping you safe.

Pros

• Lightweight and durable
• Tough blade design

Cons

• Slightly annoying hump where the blade meets the handle on the back side

Recommendation

Buck Knives 110 LT Drop Point Folding Hunter is a modern version of a classic knife that’s a good emergency knife and is surprisingly tough for a folding knife.

10. Best Overall Folding Survival Knife: Opinel No. 8 Outdoor

• Blade Shape: Yatagan with serrations
• Blade Material: Sandvik 12C27 stainless steel
• Blade Length: 3.35″
• Blade Thickness: 0.1″
• Overall Length: 7.625″
• Handle Material: Polymer
• Fixed or Folding? Folding
• Misc: Virobloc collar safety, lanyard, built-in whistle and shackle key

Overview

Opinel knives became a classic 100 years ago. They are folding knives distilled into their most essential elements and made from only five parts. The Opinel No. 8 Outdoor is a modern version—more advanced, but not annoyingly so.

Opinel No. 8 is the most popular size, with a 3.25-inch blade. The Outdoor Range version has Sandvik 12C27 stainless steel, which can get very sharp while resisting corrosion, unlike the classic wood-handled “Carbone” with high-carbon steel.

The blade’s shape is similar to that of a Turkish saber, with a mild concave section then convex tip shaped halfway between a clip and drop point. The Outdoor Opinel is partially serrated, which increases its versatility. There is also a 4 mm to 10 mm shackle key.

This all contributes to a blade that cuts well above its weight class. And it’s in the featherweight class; the Opinel No. 8 Outdoor weighs 2.2 ounces!

The handle is made from black and orange polymer. It has subtle curves which make the knife comfortable in your hand, and unlike the classic Opinels, is not prone to swelling in humid weather. It has a whistle near the end.

You have to manually unlock, unfold, then lock the blade in order to use it. The Virobloc safety collar contributes to this knife’s strength but also makes it slow to use.

Pros

• Above-average cutting ability
• Built-in whistle and shackle key
• Inexpensive
• Strong Virobloc twisting safety collar
• Weighs just over than 2 ounces

Cons

• Slow to open and close.

Recommendation

The Opinel No. 8 Outdoor is a survival-oriented version of a classic knife that’s best for everyday carry. It has served many bushcrafters in the field. Like any folding knife, it shouldn’t be your primary survival knife, but it will work if you’re caught in the wild with nothing else.

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Why Do You Need a Quality Survival Knife?

Buying a knife specifically for survival situations may not seem like the best idea.

Nobody plans to get into a survival situation. Except for bushcrafters. They do so purposefully to practice survival skills, so they are always prepared.

If an emergency happens and you’re thrust into a survival situation, you’ll be glad you spent the money on a good wilderness survival knife!

You don’t have to spend massive amounts of money preparing for an emergency. All you should do is buy one or two survival knives. Put one in your go-bag or bugout bag, and put the other in your vehicle.

That way, if the unthinkable happens, you’ll be able to grab your good knife at the same time you get your other survival supplies.

You should have an everyday carry blade on you as well, but you don’t want to rely on that knife in a survival situation.

What Are the Benefits of a Survival Knife Over a Normal Knife?

Normal knives are not designed to be abused for a week straight.

Survival knives are tougher than your standard EDC knife. One of the most common metrics people use to judge blades is whether or not you can baton with them.

Batoning is when you split firewood by cutting into the top with the knife and then hitting the tip and handle, alternating each hit, so the blade descends through the log and forces it apart.

This is one of the most demanding tasks you can ask of a knife, and it requires a thick blade and a strong tang.

Let’s not forget chopping, digging, hammering, breaking apart joints, and other similar tasks. Your EDC knife is not a safe choice for these, but a survival knife is up to the challenge!

How to Choose A Top Survival Knife?

Wilderness survival knives are a must for anyone who wants to not die in the woods. But not every knife is good for everyone, except maybe the Morakniv Companion or ESEE-6P.

Even then, which one should you choose?

Other than the flippant answer of “both,” you should think long and hard about any item you’re going to use to survive. SHTF knives are no different.

Fixed vs. Folding

I’m not going to beat around the bush (that’s what machetes are for). You want your main survival knife to have a fixed blade.

There are great folding knives out there, but folding knives have two disadvantages compared to fixed blades:

1. They are less safe.
2. They do not have tangs.

Those two reasons tie into each other.

If you’re subjecting your knife to stress, such as the digging or prying you might need to do in a survival situation, much of that force is transferred into the tang.

Folding blades do not have tangs; they have locks. Even the strongest lock is much weaker than a tang.

If you try to baton with a folding blade, you might break the lock.

Also, it’s easy to get your fingers caught between the edge and the handle when closing a folding blade. If you’re trying to survive, then you should minimize all chances of injury, especially to your hands.

However, folders do have their place. You’re more likely to carry a folding knife, they make excellent backup blades, and they are better for more delicate tasks such as food preparation and making feather sticks.

So, it’s a good idea to have a survival folding blade alongside your primary fixed blade knife.

Blade Shape

An outdoor knife’s shape does affect whether it’s good for general use or for survival.

Tip

Generally, for a survival knife, you want a thicker, stronger tip.

This generally means you should go with a drop point knife instead of one with a clip point. That’s why the normal Buck Knives 110 Folding Hunter LT didn’t make the list. The clip point would be less likely to survive the constant stress.

Edge: Plain vs. Serrated

Most survival knives have a plain edge.

Serrations may seem like a good idea, but they interfere with batoning. Serrations are also more difficult to sharpen in the field, so you’ll generally want to stick with the easy-to-sharpen plain edge.

However, serrations are good at cutting through rope.

Since you won’t be batoning with a backup folding blade, you might as well choose one with serrations.

Steel Type

There are two main types of steel in the knife world: stainless steel and high-carbon steel

There are many types of steel within those two categories, but for brevity’s sake, those are the two options.

Generally, stainless steel is more corrosion resistant. You don’t need to care for it as much, and while it will only have an okay edge, that edge will stay sharp for longer.

High-carbon steel is the opposite. It’s prone to rusting unless you keep it clean and oiled. However, high-carbon steels can have extremely sharp edges that are easy to sharpen.

Handle Material

Survival knife handles need to be designed for utility, not aesthetics. As such, none of the knives listed above have wooden handles.

Wood is beautiful but gets slick when you’re sweaty. This is no good if you are working in a humid area, in the rain, or when under pressure.

Synthetic handles such as Micarta provide a better grip when wet and are less likely to get damaged by cold, heat, or moisture.

Tang

The bigger the tang, the better the wilderness knife.

Rat-tail tangs are thin pieces that go through the center of the handle. This presents a weak point that’s prone to breaking, but this won’t be a problem with a well-made knife.

A three-quarter tang is better than a rat-tail, but batoning with one is iffy. Especially if you strike the handle past the tang.

A full tang is best. There are no weak points in the knife, so it can handle all the abuse. Some full-tang knives even have a pommel that’s not covered by the handle, so you can use the knife as a hammer!

Size

Most survival blades should be 4 to 7 inches long.

Shorter blades allow for more dexterous movement but suffer in versatility. Longer blades are better for chopping and skinning but start to get more cumbersome, again losing versatility.

Some people claim 5 to 6 inches to be the sweet spot. Other people say that if you want to go larger than 4 inches, you should switch to a different tool.

Part of figuring out the best knife size is personal preference and depends on your hand size. A giant knife may work for you if your hand is larger than most people’s faces. If you’re petite, then get a smaller knife.

It’s a good idea to head to a store and try out different-sized blades to see which ones feel right to your hands.

Extra Features

Wilderness survival knives can have features beyond a blade and handle.

Sheaths are almost always nice. You’ll need to safely carry that knife around.

Other features are personal preference. Having a built-in whistle is nice but rarely important (you should have one of those anyway).

If you can, though, I would recommend getting a knife with jimping. Jimping is a textured, scalloped, or dully-serrated area on the blade’s spine. It gives your thumb more grip and increases your control over the knife, making it both safer and more effective.

Top Survival Knife Brands

ESEE

ESEE’s 6P knife claims the top spot in this list. What has the company done to attain this achievement?

Well, ESEE has been actively engaged in survival and wilderness sports for over two decades. It all started in Peru with Randall’s Adventure and Training.

Randall’s Adventure and Training was established to provide high-quality wilderness survival instruction to citizens of Peru and visitors from abroad. Jungle survival is a step above forest survival, so Jeff Randall and his partner Mike Perrin had to know their stuff.

They knew enough to get a contract with the Peruvian Air Force’s School of Jungle Survival, or Escuela De Supervivencia En La Selva.

With all of their knowledge and their desire to improve the wilderness survival community’s ability to survive anywhere, Randall and Perrin set out designing knives. And they designed some good knives.

They designed several knives for the Ontario Knife Company, including the RAT line. They also designed a knife for TOPS Knives. Then they decided to produce their own knives, and ESEE was born.

ESEE’s staff still practices survival and outdoor adventure and continue to produce some of the best survival knives in the world, without any of the fancy trappings that cause prices to skyrocket.

When you buy an ESEE knife, you know you’re paying for quality.

ESEE also works with a search-and-rescue organization based out of Alabama called RAT-SAR. RAT-SAR teaches participants to survive in some of the most dangerous places on Earth while rescuing other people from perishing in the wild.

Morakniv

Morakniv, commonly called Mora, is based in Mora, Sweden. They were established in 1891 in a country with one of the strongest wilderness exploration traditions in the world.

Though Morakniv itself was “only” established in 1891, the city of Mora was already well known as a knifesmith’s capital, so today’s Morakniv has over 400 years of experience behind it.

Mora’s knives are no-nonsense blades that are 100% utility. They are made with high-quality Swedish steel and handles meant to last. Because of this, Mora has a great reputation among bushcrafters and other wilderness explorers.

Mora also produces knives for cooks, fishermen, woodworkers, and even ranchers. But they are best known for their survival blades, especially the Companion.

Every time someone asks what knife they should buy for an outdoor hobby, Morakniv is mentioned.

Opinel

Unlike ESEE and Morakniv, Opinel didn’t start by making survival knives.

Their knives were for French peasants.

Opinel was established in 1890 by Joseph Opinel when he started making and selling penny knives for working folks. They became wildly popular, and he expanded his range by making the knife longer or shorter.

Every one of Opinel’s knives have a number. No. 8 is the most popular size, and the 8 refers to how it’s 8 centimeters long.

No. 9 and No. 10 are also good for outdoor use, by the way. But only the No. 8 is available with the rugged polymer handle.

Until 1955, Opinel knives were made with just four parts. Marcel Opinel improved the knives that year by inventing the Virobloc safety, which not only made the knives safer but also stronger.

The classic Opinel knife has a high carbon steel blade and beechwood handles. These are simple, beautiful knives. While good for EDC, they are not as good for survival work where you’ll be spending lots of time in the wet outdoors.

No metal or plastic separates the blade from the wood, so it can absorb moisture then hold it against the blade, causing rust.

The Outdoor model doesn’t have this problem. However, it lacks another aspect which has made Opinel so beloved: easy modifications.

Many people customize their Opinel’s handle. You can reshape it, add decorations, or increase the functionality by adding a lanyard hole.

So, while the classic Opinels aren’t optimal survival knives, they’re still timeless pocket knives!

You might also want to look into these:

Tactical knife

Knife sharpeners

Hunting knife

What Hunting Knives Are Used For

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