This article will discuss some of the best options available on the market, an explanation of why choosing the right rest is important and some instructions on how to select the arrow rest that is right for you.  

To narrow down the discussion, the focus will be on rests for compound bows being used in hunting situations, shot by an archer using a release.   

DISCLOSURE: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Links in this article are affiliate links. If you click on a link we may earn a commission if you make a purchase, at no additional cost to you.

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The 6 Top Arrow Rests: Outdoor Empire Reviews

These are our top recommendations for arrow rests:

1. Best whisker biscuit: Trophy Ridge Whisker Biscuit Sure Shot Pro
2. Best drop-away: Vapor Trail LimbDriver Pro-V Rest
3. Best for hunting: Quality Archery Design Ultra Rest HDX

Looking for a specific feature? Check out our quick-reference chart below:

Product	Trophy Ridge Whisker Biscuit Sure Shot Pro	Trophy Ridge Whisker Biscuit Quick Shot	Vapor Trail Limbdriver Pro-V Rest	Ripcord Technologies Code Red	Trophy Ridge Whisker Biscuit Power Shot	Quality Archery Design UltraRest HDX
Biscuit Size (inner)	- 0.320 in (Medium)	- 0.300 in (Small) - 0.320 in (Medium) - 0.395 in (Large)	not specified by manufacturer	not specified by manufacturer	- 0.300 in (Small) - 0.320in (Medium) - 0.385 in (Large)	not specified by manufacturer
Weight	not specified by manufacturer	8 oz	10 oz	4.8 oz	4 oz	8 oz
Dimensions	not specified by manufacturer	10 x 10 x 2 in	6 x 5 x 2.5 in	7.8 x 5 x 2.2 in	6 x 4 x 2 in	2.5 x 5.3 x 7.3 in
Cost	Check Price	Check Price	Check Price	Check Price	Check Price	Check Price

Best Whisker Biscuit Arrow Rests 

Whisker Biscuit rests are still the market favorite. When it comes to which brand to buy, you can choose between Trophy Ridge or Trophy Ridge. Carolina Archery originally patented the Whisker Biscuit design before eventually selling the product to Trophy Ridge.

While many brands have attempted to mimic the success of the full-containment Whisker Biscuit concept, none have succeeded. Trophy Ridge now makes four models of the Whisker Biscuit, which fall on a good, better, best spectrum.  

1. Trophy Ridge Whisker Biscuit Sure Shot Pro

Trophy Ridge Whisker Biscuit Sure Shot Pro

View on Amazon View at Sportsman's Guide

The Sure Shot Pro is the best of the best. Its aluminum construction makes it both rugged and lightweight. It is easily adjustable for windage and elevation, with laser engraved reference marks. This means your bow will be much simpler to tune.

The full-containment of the Whisker Biscuit makes it ideal for hunters who want the peace of mind that their arrow will be in the right spot when the time comes to take a shot.  

While fletching contact with the rest has a negative impact on accuracy, Trophy Ridge has engineered the rest over time to minimize the downside.

Rest contact with the arrow shaft improves accuracy, so the Whisker Biscuit helps itself by remaining in contact with the arrow until it leaves the bow.  

The Sure Shot Pro has rubber boots protecting the loading area for the arrow. This reduces arrow-loading noise that could be harmful in hunting scenarios. 

2. Trophy Ridge Whisker Biscuit Quick Shot

Trophy Ridge Whisker Biscuit Quick Shot

$36.41

View on Amazon View at Cabela's

08/14/2023 01:35 pm GMT

Compare prices at: Sportsman’s Warehouse, Sportsman’s Guide, Bass Pro Shops

The Whisker Biscuit Quick Shot gives you the basic functional benefits of the more expensive Whisker Biscuit products at a budget price. It is everything you need in an arrow rest and nothing you do not.  

If you subscribe to the “you get what you pay for” school of thought (as you should), you are asking yourself what you are not getting because of the budget price. 

The Quick Shot has a composite construction as opposed to aluminum, it also has windage adjustments only. The lack of elevation adjustment means you must rely on moving your d-loop for tuning of the bow.

However, once setup and tuned, you would not notice much difference between this “good” option compared to the “best.”

Best Drop-Away Rests 

While your choice of Whisker Biscuit brands is straightforward, the drop-away rest market is full of brands and designs to choose from.

Options are nice, but the sheer number of choices can be overwhelming especially if you do not have prioritized needs when it comes to features.  

Here are two great choices for drop-away rests if you want to simplify your search. 

3. Vapor Trail Limbdriver Pro-V Rest

Vapor Trail Archery Arrow Rest Pro V, Right Hand, Red Arm

$129.99

View on Amazon View at Optics Planet

08/14/2023 01:27 pm GMT

When considering the downsides of a drop-away rest versus a Whisker Biscuit, the biggest concerns are ease of use and risk of failure. The central factor with both of those concerns is the timing cord.

While a failure could come from another source, a broken cord is probably the most likely scenario. Because the Vapor Trail Limbdriver Pro V is limb-driven, it eliminates the issues associated with a timing cord and takes the top spot among drop-away rests.  

The limb-driven operation makes timing simple, and Vapor Trail’s full-capture system put it above other limb-driven designs.

As was discussed about the Whisker Biscuit, rest contact with the arrow shaft increases accuracy. In the case of the LimbDriver Pro V, Vapor Trail boasts that the rest is in contact with the shaft for 70% of the shot cycle.

This helps the arrow track straight until it reaches the velocity needed to stabilize itself. Once the rest falls away, the fletchings pass through with zero contact.  

Other features and specifications of the Limbdriver Pro V are: 

• Adjustable spring tension 
• Free-floating launcher arm 
• Easy to setup 
• Available in left and right-handed models 
• Many colors available 

4. Ripcord Technologies Code Red

Ripcord Technologies Code Red

View on Amazon View at Cabela's

Compare prices at: Sportsman’s Warehouse

Some fall-away arrow rests have a disadvantage compared with whisker biscuits: they don’t completely contain the arrow.

Not so the Code Red by Ripcord Technologies. The arrow rest completely encloses the arrow shaft from draw to release, which is when the rest falls away. This keeps the arrow from falling off the rest as you draw on that deer!

An added bonus is an internal brake system that eats the inertia from the rest falling. This means that the rest won’t bounce back up and knock your arrow off of its trajectory.

The base material is lightweight aluminum so the Code Red won’t pull your bow off balance. However, Ripcord Technologies knows that aluminum can be noisy, so every part of the rest an arrow might touch has been covered in quiet overmolding.

Setup is easy, and you can adjust the rest’s windage, so this rest fits your bow no matter how wide the riser.

Features

• Falls away so your arrow’s vanes don’t touch any part of the bow, ensuring accuracy
• Internal brakes stop inertia, preventing the rest from bouncing back and from causing noise
• Can be set to cock as you start drawing the arrow or for manual cocking
• The arrow is fully contained within the rest

Best Hunting Arrow Rests 

5. Trophy Ridge Whisker Biscuit Power Shot

Trophy Ridge Whisker Biscuit Power Shot

View on Amazon View at Cabela's

Compare prices at: Bass Pro Shops

When it comes to functionality, price and hunter preference, the Whisker Biscuit is still king. While this article has already given the nod to the Sure Shot Pro as the best Trophy Ridge has to offer, for hunting purposes many may prefer the Power Shot. 

The Power Shot’s composite construction and Ballistix CoPolymer System reduce vibration and noise at the time of the shot.  

The Power Shot has elevation and windage adjustments, and is also reversible for left and right-handed bows. Finally, it can be adjusted for bows that have high or low anchor points.  

Like the other high-end Trophy Ridge products, it is available in black or camo.

6. Quality Archery Design UltraRest HDX

Quality Archery Design UltraRest HDX

$154.95

View on Amazon View at Cabela's

08/14/2023 03:05 pm GMT

Compare prices at: Sportsman’s Warehouse, Bass Pro Shops

For those hunters that want to gain a little arrow speed and accuracy, the Quality Archery Design (QAD) HDX is a great choice. The tradeoffs to those benefits are cost and a slight reliability factor.

However, the HDX boasts a long list of features that offset those concerns for many hunters. 

With a combination of aluminum and stainless steel components, the HDX is rugged and durable. Built to be used in hunting scenarios where it will be exposed to some amount of abuse, the full-containment system keeps your arrow in place during those situations.  

The HDX is customizable and adjustable, which makes it the perfect rest to use on a wide variety of compound bows.  

QAD has been a leader in the arrow rest market for a long time, and their rests are made in the USA and come with a limited lifetime warranty. 

The HDX is available in stock black and camo options, as well as custom colors.

The Importance of Choosing a Good Rest 

Imagine yourself at full-draw on a bull elk of a lifetime. He is 20 yards in front of you, covered in mud, fired-up from a half hour where you have antagonized him with a cacophony of bugles, chuckles and tree-raking.

He takes that final step and you prepare to let your arrow fly. It is a moment you have visualized a thousand times; but imagine now that instead of watching the arrow hit its mark, you watch it sluff off the side of your arrow rest and clank harmlessly to the ground.   

There are far too many hunters out there that do not have to imagine how this or a similar failure would feel because they have actually lived out this moment.

The frustration, let down and disappointment is immense. The tragedy of it is so much broader than just that moment.Consider what it takes to get to that point:

• the days and days of scouting
• placing trail cameras
• practicing with your bow

Think about the energy in miles walked and the dollars spent on your hunting license, bow, binoculars, apparel, rangefinder, GPS, calls, travel and, and, and…

Then think how silly you would feel if, after all that time, money and energy spent, your opportunity was spoiled because you skimped on one of the most crucial components of your bow- your arrow rest. 

Similarly, purchasing and becoming comfortable with a quality arrow rest can give you peace of mind that one factor in the moment will be a constant and not a variable.

Your rest is the last thing your arrow contacts before it is officially sent on its way towards your prey or target. Give yourself confidence and not heartache by choosing your arrow rest wisely.  

Choosing Your Rest 

Choosing between types and brands of arrow rests will be a little about your shooting scenarios and a lot about personal preferences. 

For hunting applications, it is going to come down to either a whisker-biscuit or drop-away style. There are a lot of quality options to choose from in each category and some of the great choices are reviewed above.

Whisker Biscuit  

You may have heard people discussing the “K.I.S.S.” (Keep It Simple, Stupid) method in various contexts and a whisker biscuit is the quintessence of that concept.

Whisker biscuits are simple and foolproof which has led them to be a favorite choice among hunters. Not only is there very little that can go wrong with them, but they are also very quiet as the arrow is released.  

Downside

Of course, even the whisker biscuit comes with some tradeoffs.

1. While the odds of something catastrophic happening are almost non-existent, you give up a little performance on a smaller scale.

2. You can figure on losing a little arrow speed compared to a drop-away rest (think two to three feet per second).

3. The whisker biscuit has more contact with the arrow and fletchings than a drop-away rest which will cause slight irregularities in arrow flight.

For hunting purposes, the inaccuracies caused by the differing arrow flights are considered by most to be negligible. 

Drop-away Rest

Still, if optimum arrow speeds and accuracy are your top priority, a drop-away rest is the best choice.

As opposed to the whisker-biscuit style rest where the fletchings contact the rest as it passes through, a drop-away rest falls away from the shaft of the arrow before the fletchings or vanes can make contact.

This is what gives you the increases accuracy and arrow speed.  

Downside

1. The downside of a drop-away rest is its complexity. Most people understand that the more complex something is, the greater the chance for failure; and drop-away rests are no exception.

2. Setup, tuning and timing of the drop-away rest are important, and those tasks can be a little overwhelming for new archers. Keeping the arrow on the rest as the bow is drawn and the arrow is raised into position can be tricky for new users as well.

These factors combine to make a whisker-biscuit style the smart choice for anyone new to archery.  

Final Thoughts

If you scour sporting good stores and the internet, you can probably still find standard rests. However, the whisker biscuit has been greatly improved over its time on the market and since drop-away rests joined them as an option, standard rests have become obsolete.    

Considering how much money goes into a hunting experience, deciding on a rest based on cost is not advised. If you find one that is right for you, an extra $50 is minor when you consider the importance of your rest. 

If possible, try shooting some bows with a variety of rest options to determine your favorite before buying. Fortunately, most modern rests are easy to install and remove, so you are not stuck with your initial choice if you decide to go another direction.  

The post 6 Best Arrow Rests Reviewed & Revealed (Hands-on Guide) appeared first on Outdoor Empire.

It’s common fact that bows, like handguns, are not ideal as a present without the recipient’s input.

However, some bows naturally lend themselves towards being perfect for beginners.

These are good starting points as you handle and compare other bows in each category.

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The 7 Top Beginner Bows of 2021: Outdoor Empire Reviews

These are our top recommendations for beginner compound bows in 2021:

1. Best all-around: Diamond Archery Infinite Edge
2. SAS Rage
3. Quest Radical
4. Bear Authority Compound Bow
5. Best youth: Bear Archery Cruzer Lite
6. Best female: Bowtech Carbon Rose
7. Best budget: Leader Accessories Compound Bow

*Looking for a specific feature? Check out our quick-reference chart below:

Product	Diamond Archery Infinite Edge	Bear Archery Cruzer Lite	Bowtech Carbon Rose
IBO Speed	310 FPS	290 FPS	302 FPS
Brace Height	7 in	6 in	7 in
Axle to Axle	31 in	27 1/8 in	30 in
Draw Length	13-31 in	12 - 27 in	22.5 - 27 in
Let Off	80%	70%	80%
Cost	Check Price	Check Price	Check Price

1. Best All-Around Beginner Bow

Diamond Archery Infinite Edge

$319.99

View on Amazon

08/14/2023 03:55 pm GMT

This category is for anyone that is an adult or has outgrown the youth and female category bows.

Some teenagers are going to be big enough and strong enough to shoot a full-size bow so there is no reason to start them on a youth bow at the upper end of its adjustability.

Some taller females may also have a draw length longer than the “female” bows are capable of adjusting to.

It comes with a lot of adjustability in an ideally sized frame. The price is extremely reasonable which is a huge plus.

As a beginning bow hunter, there is a good chance that your first bow is going to be a gateway to your next one so paying top dollar for the “end-all” bow is probably not the best choice.

Specs & Features

• Adjustable draw weight from 5-70 pounds
• Extremely adjustable draw length ranges from 13”-31”
• Can shoot arrows up to 310 FPS
• Smooth draw is easier for beginners to manage
• 7” Brace Height and 31” axle to axle length is moderate measurements well-suited for beginners
• Lightweight at 3.2 pounds so fatigue from carrying and handling the bow is less likely
• Package includes rest, sight, stabilizer, and quiver — all basic for beginner use

2. SAS Rage

Southland Archery Supply SAS Outrage

$160.00

View on Amazon

08/14/2023 03:59 pm GMT

The SAS Rage is an affordable beginner’s bow that offers shooters a long-lasting and durable option. This dual eccentric cam design utilizes a draw length of 25 to 31 inches and an adjustable weight from 55 to 70 pounds. This is perfect for new archers and new hunters.

The bow limbs are made from ABS, which guarantees a long service life. ABS is a great compromise between strength, durability, and weight. The user can adjust the weight in 5-pound increments which allows them to tune the bow to their strength and to maximize power.

The SAS Rage sends arrows downrange at 270 FPS, and that’s plenty fast for hunters. Of course that 270- FPS is only reached when the bow is set to 70-pound draw weight. The Rage uses aluminum cams which do allow for a smooth and clean draw.

The SAS Rage gives shooters a bow they can confidently handle and shoot. Confidence is important, and the ability to easily change the draw weight is a major boost for new shooters.

Many may not be able to start at 70 pounds, but the bow allows them to work their way up to that speed. As they get stronger, they can move slowly up the draw weight as they learn and grow. The SAS Rage is perfect for beginners and comes in at a killer price.

Specs & Features:

• Adjustable weight from 55 to 70 pounds in 5-pound
• Arrows can reach 270 FPS
• Designed to be easy to shoot
• Affordable

3. Quest Radical

Quest Radical Compound Bow

View at Sportsman's Warehouse

The Quest Radical is a vicious bow, but its perfect for beginners. It’ll give you a long service life and get you to the point where you’re a bit better than a beginner.

The bow can take you from beginner to skilled user and serve you at both stages well. The Quest Radical is nice and adjustable in a variety of ways.

The first is the draw weight. The weight can be adjusted from a light 40 pounds to a heavier 70 pounds. This makes it a solid choice for both shooters young and experienced.

40 pounds sounds heavier than it is, and most older children can easily handle it. When the bow is tuned to 70 pounds, you can easily hunt deer and hogs with it.

The Quest Radical also has an adjustable draw length from 26.5 inches to 31 inches. This accommodates a variety of different sized shooters. The bow weighs only 3.9 pounds and is an excellent bow for new archers. Get it and go.

Specs and Features:

• Adjustable draw weight from 40 to 70 pounds
• Adjustable draw length from 26.5 to 31 inches
• 340 Feet Per Second arrow speed
• Rotation Adjusting Draw length

4. Bear Authority Compound Bow

The Bear Authority Compound Bow is a lightweight little bow that won’t induce fatigue as you shoot round after round downrange. It weighs 4 pounds but still features a straight aluminum riser.

It’s a capable hunting bow and gives users an adjustable draw weight of 50-70 pounds.

The Bear Authority Compound Bow features an excellent customizable grip that allows you to change it for glove wearing, small hands, big hands, and more.

The Bear Authority is a short little bow which makes it excellent for humping through the woods and climbing a tree stand with.

The Bear Authority Compound Bow is affordable and a perfect new bow for new archers.

Specs and Features:

• Adjustable Weight 50 to 70 pounds
• 315 Feet per second arrow speed
• Customizable grip
• Short 6 ¾” brace height
• Adjustable draw length from 24.5 to 31.5 inches

5. Best Youth Beginner Bow: Bear Archery Cruzer Lite

Buying a bow for a young hunter is a little bit like buying shoes for a teenage boy — both the shoes and the bow are going to be outgrown quickly.

With that in mind, a good beginner bow for a youth shooter is going to have lots of adjustability in draw weight and length, and should be reasonably priced.

The Cruzer Lite by Bear Archery is my choice for best beginner youth bow because your youth hunter should get extended use out of it compared to less-adjustable bows.

With over 40 pounds of adjustment in draw weight and 15 inches in draw length, the Cruzer Lite can grow with the shooter. It is sold as a package (as most youth bows are) and it has an assortment of other features that make it an excellent choice.

Specs & Features

• 45-pound max draw weight means it could be used legally to hunt big game in most states.
• 5-pound minimum draw weight makes it shoot-able for shooters of almost any strength
• Draw length adjusts from 12 to 27 inches
• Available in purple, yellow and Realtree camouflage to appeal to a variety of preferences
• Weighs just 3.2 pounds
• 6” Brace Height and 27 1/8” Axle to Axle make it ideally sized for youth shooters
• Capable of shooting arrows at up to 290 FPS
• Comes with basic, quality accessories including a 3-Pin sight, Whisker Biscuit rest, and 4-arrow quiver, all made by Trophy Ridge.

6. Best Female Beginner Bow: Bowtech Carbon Rose

As the number of women participating in archery as hunters and target shooters has increased, so does the number of bows designed especially for females.

Not long ago, many female shooters were forced to buy a youth bow or bows marketed to women, which was most likely a standard bow in pink or purple camo.

Today, many manufacturers are designing bows from start to finish that caters female shooters.

It is everything that has not been available in a bow for women in the past. While it is the “sister” bow of the Bowtech Carbon Overdrive, it has been built for the female shooter.

Bowtech sized it down to fit almost any female shooter and its design makes it smooth to draw and shoot. Because it is a serious bow, you pay a more serious price. Its features make it great for female shooters, from beginner to expert.

Specs & Features

• Draw weight from 30-60 pounds makes it ideal for any woman who has outgrown youth bows like the Cruzer Lite
• Draw Length of 22.5”-27” fits most females
• Capable of arrow speeds of up to 302 FPS
• 7” brace height and 30” axle to axle length are catered to women and right dimensions for beginners
• Slim, comfortable grip for smaller hands
• Can be purchased as a package or a bare bow
• Available in Mossy Oak camo or carbon (both with purple accents)

7. Best Budget Beginner Compound Bow: Leader Accessories Compound Bow

It’s easy to lose quality when you’re trying to save money.

Leader Accessories’ compound bow is a leader in the value/quality department, though.

This beginner’s compound bow is a surprisingly capable bow that has a draw weight of 30 pounds on the low end and 55 pounds on the high end. This is low enough for beginner adult archers and goes high enough for deer and even black bear hunting.

The maximum speed of 296 feet per second is respectable, as is the 70 percent let-off.

Part of what makes this bow so good, though, is that the kit includes a fair amount of accessories you’d have to otherwise buy yourself. They aren’t the highest quality, but they are good enough for most people.

If you want to go all-in, there’s a full accessory kit (ASIN: B077DMK8TR) that adds even more to the package, such as a dozen arrows, a dozen paper targets, a bow bag, two types of arrow rests, limb dampeners, and even an arrow puller!

Leader Accessories even covers this bow with a 1-year warranty.

Specs & Features

• Adjustable draw weight from 30 to 55 pounds
• Adjustable draw length from 19 inches to 29 inches
• Adjusts with an Allen wrench
• Arrow speeds can reach 296 feet per second
• Lets off 70 percent of the weight at full draw
• Weighs only 3.3 pounds
• Package includes a bow, release, nock loop, peep sight, flight rail lube, drop-away arrow rest, fiber-optic pin sight, and two 30-inch aluminum arrows
• 1-year warranty

Points to Consider When Choosing

Pick a Good Bow Shop

As a beginning bow hunter, you might be tempted to price-shop bows, which can often lead you to buy from a store based on price. This may work out for you, but often it does not.

If you have multiple places to purchase bows near you, visit a couple of shops and see where the staff is the most helpful and knowledgeable. Online reviews are also useful for finding a quality bow shop.

The right bow shop will be a huge help in selecting and setting up a bow for you initially. They will also be helpful as you learn more about shooting and when your bow will need further accessorizing and adjusting.

At the wrong bow shop, you may have a hard time getting any help at all.

Start Simple

It is tempting to go straight to the newest bow loaded with all of the accessories. However, there are certain features on a bow that make them ideal for advanced shooters, but not as ideal for a new shooter. Here are a couple of specifics to consider:

Brace Height

Brace height is the distance between the grip of the bow and the bow string when in the undrawn position.

If the bow has a longer brace height, the arrow spends less time in contact with the string. This makes it more forgiving for new shooters. A shorter brace height results in a faster arrow speed so it may be a better choice for a bow down the line.

Axle to Axle Dimension

Generally, bows seem to be getting smaller and smaller, particularly when the axle to axle dimension is concerned.

Short bows are lighter and more compact, making them easier to carry around in the woods or up to tree stands. However, they are also a little less stable when shooting than their longer counterparts.

For your first bow, look for something in the middle of the spectrum which should afford you some increased stability without being overly large.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qi78tus3KtA

Draw Weight

Buying a bow that tests the upper limits of your strength is likely to yield poor results. Just because you can draw a bow set at 70 pounds does not make it a good choice. Start with a bow adjusted to a weight that you can draw comfortably.

Starting with a bow that requires too much force to draw is likely to create bad habits that may be inaccurate or unsafe.

Simple Accessories

There are lots of options when it comes to rests, sights, stabilizers and a gamut of other products you can hang off your bow.

If you intend to upgrade to a drop-away rest in the future, I suggest starting with a basic, stationary one like a Whisker Biscuit. Similarly, I suggest going with a simple, multiple pin sight.

Handle and Shoot Lots of Bows

After finding your preferred bow shop and narrowing down your selection with the above criteria, it is time to pick your bow.

Ask for the bows that fit into your category and hold them to know how they feel on the hand. This is one area where having a good shop comes into play.

The right store, with an attached range, should let you demo a variety of bows to know which one works best for you. If the bow meets the other criteria points and feels great to handle and shoot, it is the right one for you.

Price

Depending on your budget, the price may or may not have to be a factor in your decision. However, cheap bows are not as easy to shoot and may likely cause a discouraging experience.

Bows made by reputable manufacturers, on the other hand, are less likely to have this issue but the price is slightly higher.

Buying a moderately priced bow as your first is going to give you an idea of what you like or do not like, so buying your second bow is a little less painful.

Final Thoughts

I favor beginner bows that have lots of adjustability because they fit a variety of shooters. Unless you are very tall, one of these three bows should fit you and adjust to your draw length.

They also adjust up or down to accommodate almost any level of strength. All of them are also capable of draw weights legal for hunting and propelling arrows at lethal speeds.

I also favored bows that are sold as packages with the basic accessories included. This simplifies the purchasing process, and again, you can decide your preferences for accessories as you become more experienced.

I believe if you follow the steps for selecting the first bow, you are going to have a good bow-buying experience. The suggested bows should provide an excellent starting point when you ask to handle or shoot an assortment of bows at your local shop.

Make sure to also take a look at our guide to best compound bow which will go more in-depth about a lot of topics discussed here and it will have even more bow recommendations for you.

For more advice on getting started with archery check out our guide on how to shoot a bow.

The post 7 Best Beginner Compound Bows Reviewed (Hands-on Guide) appeared first on Outdoor Empire.

Still, it is possible that you would get lured into the wrong product based on a poor recommendation from a friend or the temptation of a great price on something not suited to your needs.

If you buy the wrong deer stand for the job, lots of unfortunate things could happen:

• You could quickly learn that a few pounds of weight difference are a big deal depending on how far you have to pack it.
• If you do not pick a stand that has some safeguards against theft, you could easily have one stolen if you leave it in the woods (especially on public property, but someone that is okay with trespassing is probably also tempted to thieve).
• An undersized stand might be uncomfortable and prevent you from sitting still or for a long time.
• A stand not designed for your hunting method could prevent you from taking the shot you need.
• A stand not rated for your weight level could fail either catastrophically or over time.

While buying the wrong stand can set you up for failure, picking a deer stand that is ideal for you can yield great results.

Whether you are new to treestand hunting or it has been a while since your last treestand purchase, this article is for you.

In addition to a review of some great climbing treestands, this will give you a better understanding of why the right treestand for the job is essential. You will also learn why climbing treestands are considered by many to be the ideal solution for their hunting needs.

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The 8 Top Climber Treestands of 2021: Outdoor Empire Reviews

These are our top recommendations for climbing treestands of 2021:

1. Best for the money: Summit 180 Max SD
2. Best lightweight: Summit Viper Elite SD
3. Best overall: Summit Goliath SD
4. Most comfortable: Lone Wolf Sit and Climb II

Looking for a specific feature? Check out our quick-reference chart below:

Product	X-Stand The X-1	Summit 180 Max SD Climbing Treestand	Summit Viper Elite SD	X-Stand The Mini X-1	Summit Goliath SD	TreeWalker ProMag XL
Weight Capacity	300 lbs	350 lbs	250 lbs	250 lbs	350 lbs	350 lbs
Foot Platform	21″ wide x 31″ deep	21" x 30.75"	19 1/2" x 28 3/4"	17″ wide x 29″ deep	20" x 36"	20” x 35”
Seat Size	19″ wide x 10″ deep	18" x 21"	18" x 12"	15″ wide x 9″ deep	18" x 12"	22” x 34”
Weight	13.8 lbs	23 lbs	17 lbs	11 lbs	21 lbs	19 lbs
Construction	Pro-lite Series 60/61 Aircraft Aluminum	Sturdy, Aluminium	Lightweight Aluminum	Pro-lite Series 60/61 Aircraft Aluminum	Closed-front aluminum	All steel
Price	Check Price	Check Price	Check Price	Check Price	Check Price	Check Price

1. Best Climbing Treestand For The Money: X-Stand The X-1

When you are contemplating the purchase of a piece of hunting equipment designed to hang you 15 feet up in a tree, “cheap” is not a word you necessarily want to hear thrown around.

The X-1 by X-Stand would not be described as cheap, but it is often available at a tremendous value. While some products do not seem to go on sale often, the X-Stand products are often advertised heavily discounted.

Its price is about half the price of comparable products on the market that has similar weights. At just 13.8 pounds, it is one of the lightest climbing stands available.

The X-1 is not the cheapest on the market but it is the best bang for your buck. Its features are similar to many of those stands that cost twice as much:

• 10” x 19” padded seat (3” of padding)
• Large, 31” x 21” foot platform
• 4-Point full-body safety harness
• 300-pound weight capacity
• Aluminum construction
• Bar flips up to double as shooting rest

2. Best Climbing Treestand For The Money #2

Summit 180 Max SD Climbing Treestand

$427.00

Pros:

• Front rail for stability
• Reversible seat
• Lightweight, sturdy design
• No creaky sound when installing

Cons:

• Backpack strap is not as strong as it could be

View on Amazon View at Sportsman's Guide

08/14/2023 02:59 pm GMT

The Summit Treestands 180 Max SD is designed to be a fully height-adjustable tree stand with more space than most other tree stands.

Built primarily out of high-quality aluminum, the Summit has a total weight of just 23 pounds and yet can hold weight up to 350 pounds. The platform includes a custom expanding-foam material and a cable-retention system that locks into place silently, ensuring you won’t disturb any game animals in the area.

The stirrups attached to the bottom also ensure that your boots remain on the platform itself rather than dangle below.

The Summit Treestands 180 Max SD is a solid and yet lightweight treestand that can hold a lot of weight and is designed to be set up in the woods as silently as possible.

3. Best Lightweight Treestand

Summit 81120 Viper SD Climbing Tree Stand

$340.06

Pros:

• Aggressive lever-action design ensures the stand will hug the tree comfortably
• Comes with flip-up seat and arm rests
• Very quiet to attach
• Shooting rail ensures you can take a shot safely
• Very lightweight but capable of holding up to 300 pounds
• Comes with foam padding for superior comfort

Cons:

• Strap comes in one size only

View on Amazon View at Cabela's

08/14/2023 03:25 pm GMT

The standard Summit Viper treestand has been a gold-standard on the market for a long time.

They raised the bar for the Viper line with the Elite model. With a variety of design enhancements including a round-tube perimeter frame, they managed to shave nearly 3 pounds off the previous Viper model. Without much compromise to size, the Viper Elite comes in at a mere 17 pounds.

The Viper Elite still has a comfortably-sized seat at 18” by 12”, and the platform area is 19 ½” by 28 ¾”. Perhaps the most notable downside of its weight-saving construction is its weight capacity — it has a 250-pound maximum weight.

It is the ideal climber for packing in any amount of distance and it can be hung on trees ranging from 8” to 20” in diameter. Summit offers 5-year warranties on their treestands, so you can be sure they are built to last many seasons.

Features

• Bungee backpack straps
• Mesh, camo seat
• Lightweight aluminum tube frame with closed seat
• Zippered camo arm pads
• Safety harness
• Patented RapidClimb Stirrups

4. X-Stand The Mini X-1

The Mini X-1 is the latest and lightest in the line from X-Stand, which they claim represents the lightest treestands available on the market.

While the standard X-1 stand features a frame that weighs just less than 10 pounds, the Mini X-1 is sized down to just an 8.5-pound frame. Once it is fully geared and accessorized (including your harness), it still comes in at just 11 pounds.

Of course, as the name suggests, it is a little on the “mini” size. The seat is 15” by 9”, but still features the popular X-Stand 3″ of cushion. The foot platform is 17” x 29”, and the whole frame is constructed of aircraft-grade aluminum.

It also maxes out at a 250-pound weight capacity. Still, if you are in the market for a lightweight, packable climbing treestand, there is no better option than the Mini X-1.

The weight represents the extreme low for the market and the price falls right in the middle. Its feature set is consistent with most products in that middle price point:

• Quick-attach cable for tree-size adjustment
• Lay-flat design makes for easy packing
• Proprietary flex arms hold the stand securely to the tree
• 3-D Camouflage pattern for concealment
• Anti-slip foot platform

5. Best Overall Climbing Treestand

Summit Goliath SD

$395.74

View on Amazon View at Optics Planet

08/14/2023 03:04 pm GMT

With 30 years of good products in the treestand market, Summit has become one of the most trusted brands available. Depending on your needs, they make several models that could be argued as the best overall.

The Goliath gets the nod here because it offers the hunter some space to maneuver without adding a whole bunch of weight. While it weighs just 21 pounds, it has a 350-pound weight capacity and generously sized seat and platform.

The Summit climbing system includes their patented Quickdraw Cable Retention System, which allows for easy adjustments for a variety of tree sizes. The Goliath also utilizes the RapidClimb climbing stirrups that quickly adjust to attach any sized boots to the platform securely.

SD stands for sound deadening. Their five-chamber aluminum constructed frames are designed specifically to quiet the noises of your movements while on the stand.

They include an instructional DVD to make sure you understand how to utilize all of  the features safely:

• Aluminum construction
• 18” x 12” padded, Mossy Oak camo seat
• 20” x 36” D- shaped platform
• Full Body Fall Arrest Harness System
• Coated steel climbing cables
• Stand Umbilical Rope

6. TreeWalker ProMag XL Treestand

Like Summit, TreeWalker could have several products in the “Best Overall” category; but the ProMag XL offers a good comparison to the Summit Goliath SD.

As its name suggests, the ProMag offers ample space with a 22” by 34” seat frame above a 20” by 35” platform. Its combination rail can be used as a shooting rest, bow rest or adjustable backrest, making it extremely versatile.

Standing shots facing in front or behind the tree? No problem.
It be used in various tree sizes from 6” to 26”. It uses a seat-climbing system, which means no need for stirrups to lock in as you climb.

TreeWalker is also the only treestand brand that sells 100% American Made products.

Features

• Lightweight- 19 pounds
• Patented Posi-Grip system assures no slip without needing straps
• Easy Glide Seat reclines in both directions
• Interlock system snaps the seat and platform together for easy transport

7. Most Comfortable Climbing Treestand

The Lone Wolf Sit and Climb II

View on Amazon

While another of our articles highlights some of the most comfortable treestands available, the Lone Wolf Sit and Climb 2 is the comfy pick for this list. This tree stand is designed to maximize comfort while providing a lightweight and stable platform for hunting.

The Lone Wolf Sit and Climb 2 is designed with a massive, and comfortable chair. This is a 2-panel contoured foam seat that gives you comfort for both your back and your butt. On either side of the seat is some handy armrests for sitting in comfort for those early mornings and late evenings.

The Sit and Climb is nice and wide and allows you to stretch out remain comfortable for long periods of time. While not included, the Lone Wolf can use an optional shooting bar to give you a comfortable and padded place to take aim.

The Lone Wolf is a little heavy, just tipping the scales at 20 pounds. 20 Pounds is about the max I’d carry onto the woods on my back. Extra comforts mean extra weight though. This system comes with backpack straps, bungee straps, and stabilizing straps. It’s also rated for hunters up to 350 pounds!

Features:

• 350 Lb capacity
• Weighs 20 pounds
• One Piece Cast Aluminum
• 30” x 19.5-inch platform
• Bungee and backpack straps included.

8. Best Climbing Treestand on a Budget

Summit 81120 Viper SD Climbing Tree Stand

$340.06

Pros:

• Aggressive lever-action design ensures the stand will hug the tree comfortably
• Comes with flip-up seat and arm rests
• Very quiet to attach
• Shooting rail ensures you can take a shot safely
• Very lightweight but capable of holding up to 300 pounds
• Comes with foam padding for superior comfort

Cons:

• Strap comes in one size only

View on Amazon View at Cabela's

08/14/2023 03:25 pm GMT

The Summit Treestands 81120 Viper SD Climbing Tree Stand is a quality climbing treestand for hunting that is a good choice for those on a budget.

This tree stand comes with a variety of neat features, including a noiseless strap-attachment system that avoids all metal-on-metal contact. The backrest comes with padding for comfort while resting against the tree, and the seat is also padded while being covered in hunting camouflage.

The platform as a whole is oversized, and the shooting rail is padded and stable, meaning you will have extra space from which to take shots. The overall stand is very lightweight at under 20 pounds, yet it can hold up to 300 pounds of weight.

The Summit 81120 is an excellent example of a quality hunting treestand sold for an affordable price.

Why Climbing Treestands are Dominating the Market

A lot of treestand hunting opportunities call for a stand that is not left in the tree. It could be that you are hunting on public property where a permanent stand is either not allowed or likely to be stolen.

Many stands that are designed to be left are either heavier or they require you to use climbing stakes to access the stand. If you are hunting an area that is hard to access, heavier stands or more accessories are not the best to pack in.

Pros & Cons

A climbing treestand is versatile, lightweight and easy to put up and take down for each hunt. Unlike a ladder treestand, it is limited to single person occupancy. However, many people get around this by putting additional stands in nearby trees.

It is also smaller and has a less stable feeling than a ladder stand or some hanging stands. A quality climbing stand is safe but it takes some familiarity because of the size and slight movements.

Some of the other downsides of the climbing treestand are associated with the fact that they are designed to be put up when you get to the tree.

In some situations, putting up the stand could be disruptive to the animals in the area when compared to sneaking up the ladder of an established stand. Many people also like the notion of giving animals time to acclimate to a stand in the area because its presence may initially throw them off.

How to Overcome the Downside

Despite its few downsides, the climbing stand is still the ideal solution in many scenarios.

• You still may want to visit the area beforehand and pick the tree you will place the stand in.
• You can cut away branches that would interfere with the installation or your view once you are situated in the stand.

Because they are easy to put up and take down, you can use them in multiple locations in a single day. Their lightweight construction also makes them reasonable to pack around to multiple spots.

Also make sure to read our article on How To Use A Climbing Tree Stand (Complete Guide).

Important Choosing Factors

If you are reading this article, you have probably already decided that a climbing treestand is the direction you want to go. Though you already narrowed your search down to the single category, there are still lots of brands and models to choose from.

Answer the following questions to help you decide:

• How do you access the treestand location?

If you plan to use a treestand in a location miles away from the nearest road and you must bring it in on your back, a lighter weight option is the best.

If your site is right off the road or you can reasonably get an ATV to area, you do not have to worry as much about weight.

• How much space do you want in your treestand?

In most cases, the tradeoff to a lightweight climbing stand is one with a smaller seat and platform. For some people, space is not something they are willing or able to sacrifice.

If you are a bigger hunter or you like having a little more room to move around, there are climbing treestands built to accommodate you.

• What kind of trees are you putting your treestand in?

Most climbing treestands accommodate trees 6” to 20” in diameter, but some have a wider range than others. If you know your area is full of bigger or smaller trees, this limitation could come into play.

If you know you’ll be in an area with big trees, we found a few tree stands that do exceptionally well with large diameter trees.

Also, if the trees are very close together or have lots of limbs, some of the compact models that are shaped to squeeze into tight spots work best for you.

• How much do you weigh?

Many climbing treestands come with at least 300-pound weight capacities that will accommodate a lot of hunters. If you are on the heavier side or plan to pack lots of gear into the tree with you, make sure to find a stand that has an appropriate weight rating.

• How much do you want to spend?

If price is an essential factor to you, it makes prioritizing your needs in a treestand even more critical. There may be a stand that perfectly fits your needs but it may be out of your budget.

If you are trying to buy a more affordable stand, you may find one that is light or spacious but probably not both. The feature-loaded stands that offer the best of both worlds are going to cost you.

One significant advantage of buying a climbing stand is you can just purchase one to use in multiple locations instead of needing many.

• Do you hunt with a rifle or a bow?

Most treestands now are built to accommodate either hunting method because that keeps them open to any market. However, some of them come with features that are better suited for one or the other.

You might also consider whether you like shooting your compound bow or rifle from a seated position or you prefer a stand that allows for standing shots.

Some features to look for would be:

1. an incorporated rest for a rifle
2. a hook for a bow (although a rifle could be hung by a sling)
3. ample room to draw a bow.

• Do you want a “sit and climb” stand or a “hand climbing” treestand?

This might be the trickiest question to answer if you do not have experience with one of the two styles but you will encounter both options on the market.

The choice between the two boils down to personal preference and you probably will not know which you want until you experience both. Demoing a friend’s stand is one good way to determine which you prefer.

As you answer these questions, you should end up with a pretty clear idea of what model treestand you need. Ultimately, weight and cost are the two variables that are likely to create the biggest differences between two stands when it comes to features.

Even if you have to make some compromises, going the direction that the answers point you in will lead you to a treestand you should be happy with.

Frequently Asked Questions

1. How safe are the climbing tree stands?

Climbing stands look crazy for sure. You are up in a tree, standing on a small platform and trying to shoot an animal. As crazy as that sounds climbing stands are quite safe.

As long as you are smart enough to use a harness to tie yourself to the tree.

It’s a bit like a car, extremely reliable…unless you are foolish enough not to wear your seatbelt. Climbing stands are exceptionally well made and as long you follow the instructions and wear a safety harness you are extremely unlikely ever to hurt yourself.

2. Best way to carry a climbing tree stand?

This will be determined by your climbing stand. Some come with a sling system or even a backpack style strap system for easy carry. With many, you’ll need to strap it your back. Most hunters, your humble author included, straps theirs to a backpack.

A bungee cord and a little patience will go a long way. Some outdoor themed packs will come complete with enough tie down straps to make bungee cords unnecessary. Just remember, tighter is better. Tighter is less noise.

3. How high to put climbing tree stands?

The overall goal of a climbing stand is to place you out of the line of sight of a deer. Another consideration is your ability to see and shoot. In thinner locations, you should go higher, and in thick brush stay lower. The highest I would suggest is between 20 to 25 feet.

4. Where to place a climbing tree stand?

You want to locate an area that’s close to deer sign, offers a tree big and safe enough to use, and gives you a clear line of fire. It’s asking a lot, and having the right combination of these three is rarely common.

Safety should be your primary concern, so finding a large and safe enough tree is critical. After that, you want a location where you have a chance of seeing deer. Lastly, you need to consider firing lines. You can always make firing lines via a hand saw and some patience.

5. How to conceal it?

Camouflage is the name of the game. To conceal a climbing stand you want to leave as much vegetation in place as you can. Artificial means includes using net-based camo devices that wrap around your stand and break up the outline of the stand. Camouflage burlap is an affordable and effective option. You can also use fake shrubbery, include artificial Christmas tree branches if you are inventive enough.

Good to know:

Can You Make Money Hunting? (How Much Pro Hunters Make)

The post 8 Best Climbing Treestands Reviewed & Revealed (Hands-on Guide) appeared first on Outdoor Empire.

This article will provide recommendations for hunting waders across multiple price-points, an explanation of why picking the right duck waders is essential and some guidelines regarding how to make your wader style and brand selection.

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DISCLOSURE: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Links in this article are affiliate links. If you click on a link we may earn a commission if you make a purchase, at no additional cost to you.

The 6 Top Hunting Waders: Outdoor Empire Reviews

These are our top recommendations for duck hunting waders:

1. Best cheap #1: Frogg Toggs Amphib Bootfoot 
2. Best cheap #2: Cabela’s Classic Series II Neoprene Boot-Foot Waders
3. Best value #1: Cabela’s Men’s Ultimate II Hunting Waders
4. Best value #2: TideWe Hunting Wader
5. Best overall #1: USIA Waders
6. Best overall #2: Hodgman Aesis Sonic Digi Stocking Foot

*Looking for a specific feature? Check out our quick-reference chart below:

Product	Frogg Toggs Amphib Bootfoot	Cabela’s Classic Series II Neoprene Boot-Foot Waders	Cabela’s Men’s Ultimate II Hunting Waders	TideWe Hunting Wader	USIA Waders	Hodgman Aesis Sonic Digi Stocking Foot
Thinsulate Insulation	600 g	600 g	1, 200 g	800 g	N/A	not specified by manufacturer
Neoprene	3.5 mm	3.5 mm	5 mm	3.5 mm	N/A	5 mm
Available Fit	- Regular - Stout	- Regular - Stout	- Regular - Big	not specified by manufacturer	custom-built	not specified by manufacturer
Sizes	7 - 14	6 - 14	8 - 14	7 - 14	S - XXXL	S - XXL
Cost	Check Price	Check Price	Check Price	Check Price		Check Price

1. Best Cheap #1

Frogg Toggs is a brand that’s well known for making breathable rain gear that’s lightweight, packable, and even recyclable.

But rain comes from the sky. Does Frogg Toggs have the know-how to make high-quality duck hunting waders?

Yes! Though, the Frogg Toggs Amphib waders aren’t as revolutionary as the Frogg Toggs rainwear.

Best Cheap #1

Frogg Toggs Amphib Bootfoot

View on Amazon View at Sportsman's

The Amphib wader has a 3.5-millimeter Neoprene upper. It goes up just as high in the back as in the front, so you can wade as deep as your armpits — especially with the easily adjusted hook and loop suspender straps.

There is a front chest pocket for your hands with another inside pocket for anything you want to keep dry, such as your wallet and hunting license.

There are also two D-rings, but they are placed right under the Velcro suspenders, so loading them down with something heavy can cause the Velcro to undo.

The legs are on the long side, meaning shorter hunters may feel scrunched in the Amphib.

Other features on the Frogg Toggs Amphib Bootfoot include:

• 600 grams of Thinsulate insulation
• Three colors/camos (Green, Realtree Max5, and Mossy Oak Bottomlands)
• Reinforced knees
• Velcro suspenders
• Sliding gravel guards

2. Best Cheap #2

For roughly $150 at Cabela’s, you can get a set of waders that will do most of what you ask them to for a lifetime.

That is not to say that Cabela’s 3.5mm Neoprene Waders might not have some issues over the years, but Cabela’s stands behind them with their Lifetime Guarantee. The protection of their guarantee makes them a bargain at a price.

Best Cheap #2

Cabela’s Classic Series II Neoprene Boot-Foot Waders

View at Cabela's View at Bass Pro Shops

The neoprene waders come in 3 color options (True Timber Prairie, Mossy Oak Bottomland, and TrueTimber DRT with 600-gram insulated lug-boots for comfort and traction. For the price, they do not lack features:

• Reliable performance at a great value
• Flexible, insulating 3.5 mm neoprene/nylon jersey laminate construction
• Wider crotch pattern for better comfort
• Rubber boots with cleated outsole and 600-gram 3M Thinsulate Ultra Insulation
• Adjustable webbing suspenders with quick-release YKK buckles
• Built-in wading belt loops for included nylon wading belt
• Front handwarmer pocket with built-in shell holder
• Front pocket features a hook and loop closure
• Reinforced knees

3. Best Value #1

Best Value #1

Cabela’s Men’s Ultimate II Hunting Waders

View at Cabela's

The Ultimate II Waders are a neoprene wader with an Armor-Flex covering that helps them stand-up to the harshest of conditions.

Cabela’s boasts their patented Armor-Flex protection as “tough as steel,” while remaining flexible and unrestricted. You only need to read a handful of reviews from happy customers to find out that the Armor-Flex is as good as advertised.

The Ultimate II’s have 1200-gram insulated boots as well as fleece-line hand-warmer pockets. Paired with the overall 5mm neoprene construction, you get a wader that is designed to keep you warm even in the worst conditions.

To fall into the “Best Value” category, a product needs to last more than the two or three seasons that most hunters expect to get out of their waders. The Ultimate II should exceed those expectations, and if they do not, they come with a lifetime guarantee from Cabela’s.

They come with a list of great features for waterfowling that includes:

• Air-bob outsoles for traction
• No-buckle suspender system to eliminate interference with your gun
• Body-contouring neoprene straps
• Mossy Oak camo patterns

4. Best Value #2

It can be difficult to find the best value for your money, especially when considering gear that can cause more than a temporary inconvenience when it fails. This is especially true for duck hunting waders.

TideWe hunting waders are a great value for the money, though. They have the features and quality of a wader twice the price.

Best Value #2

TIDEWE Hunting Wader

$89.99

View on Amazon

08/14/2023 09:39 am GMT

TideWe’s waders are all bootfoot waders with slip-resistant, soft rubber boots for comfort and good footing in the water. You have four insulation levels: 600, 800, 1400, and 1600 grams, all Thinsulate.

The 600- and 800-gram waders use 3.5 millimeter Neoprene for the upper, while the 1400- and 1600-gram waders use 5 millimeter Neoprene for the upper.

There’s a chest pocket to keep your hands warm, and six shell loops hold onto spare ammo. Two D-rings let you attach more shell carriers, if you want. Plus, there’s a built-in zip-up pocket.

The back rides higher than the front to help prevent water from spilling into your wader. There’s also a handle for your hunting partner to grab when you accidentally step into the deep end!

Specifications

• Adjustable belt
• Shell carrier
• Realtree Max5 camouflage
• Your choice of 600, 800, 1400, or 1600 grams of Thinsulate insulation (ASINs B07H1HDPNC, B07D2DSXG5, B07RW259J8, and B07RW2YW99)

5. Best Overall #1: USIA Waders

If there were a section in this article for “Best Kept Secret” of the waterfowl wader world, waders by USIA would win that award too.

Unlike some brands that have been famous exclusively for waterfowl waders or gear, USIA has historically focused on extreme gear for military and rescue personnel.

Their waders get a nod for “Best of the Best” because they share the quality and heritage of other products that are designed for professionals in extreme conditions where cost is a non-factor.

USIA waders are basic and utilitarian. They are not insulated, or breathable, so the layers you wear under them will determine how warm you stay.

They are, however, extremely rugged and waterproof. They are rated as “Class B” waterproof, meaning they are waterproof even in depths over 12 feet. Since you can be assured that you are going to stay dry, you just layer underneath to keep warm in a variety of conditions.

They offer a long list of add-ons that will increase the cost, which can be around $500 if you throw enough options on them. Stock and available features are:

• Stock 400D Nylon Cloth with 1000D Cordura in high wear spots
• Upgraded Techniflex Base Fabric (quieter and more flexible)
• Kevlar Knee Pads
• Stainless or plastic D-Rings
• T-Zipper
• Shell Holder
• Stock 6 x 9 chest pocket
• A variety of outside pockets
• Inside pockets
• Belt loops
• Insulated Bogs boots

Ordering USIA Waders is a little like ordering a pizza — just keep adding whatever options you like. Your boot size selection is separate from the 11 stock sizes; and if you wish, you can measure for custom-fitted waders in all dimensions.

Their waders are as custom as you can imagine. The drawback? Expect to wait 4 weeks for these waders built just for you. However, for the avid hunter, USIA waders are probably worth the wait.

6. Best Overall #2

Between hunting and fishing, Hodgman has been a household name in the wader market for a long time. Now, they have brought their brand new Sonic 2.0 seam system to the hunting wader scene.

Instead of stitched seams, the Sonic 2.0 system double-welds all of the seams to prevent leaks and enhance durability.

Best Overall #2

Hodgman Aesis Sonic Stocking Foot Wader

View on Amazon

While many stockingfoot waders are a compromise when it comes to durability, Hodgman has overcome that disadvantage with the introduction of the Aesis wader.

The legs and seat are five-layer constructed for durability and puncture resistance. The upper is composed of four breathable layers to keep you comfortable even when you are required to be active.

While the hunting market these days is dominated by boot foot waders, many people still have a need for stockingfoot waders based on styles of hunting that require more hiking and wading.

The durability, flexibility, and concealment of the Aesis in Digi camo are the perfect solution for those hunters. For the money, you get a versatile, option-rich wader, including:

• Top loading external pocket
• Zippered internal pocket
• Anatomically correct left and right neoprene stockingfeet
• Can be paired with core INS removable insulation system

Related: What’s the Cheapest Shotgun Gauge to Shoot

The Importance of Good Waders 

In  A Coast to Coast Walk, author Alfred Wainwright famously said, “There is no such thing as bad weather, just unsuitable clothing.” This saying is often applied to outdoor gear, and it is never more accurate than when discussing waterfowl waders.

Hardcore waterfowl hunters know that some of the very best hunting occurs at the same time as the very worst weather. Because of this, choice of gear is crucial.

Many hunting days have been abbreviated because the conditions got the best of the hunter. Lots of waterfowl hunting scenarios call for the hunter to spend part or all of their day standing in cold water which makes wearing quality waders crucial.

A variety of factors will contribute to which waders are the right choice for you:

• weather
• how far you walk
• type of territory you hunt in
• budget
• how many times a year you hunt

If you make the wrong wader selection for hunting in muddy conditions, you can pretty quickly pull your stockingfoot waders right out of your boots when they stick in the mud. Breathable waders exposed to thorny brush can tear or develop pinholes and leak.

Selecting waders that are not well-enough insulated from the conditions is another commonly made mistake.

While there are a lot of ways that wader selection can go awry and be the cause of an uncomfortable day in the woods, the right choice can be warm, dry, durable and unrestricted.

Picking the Right Waders 

When it comes time to make your wader selection, consider the following questions and answers guidelines:

• How often do you plan on hunting?

Several wader options on the market are affordable because the manufacturer sacrificed product durability and longevity in favor of lower price.

In many cases, these waders are suitable for a handful of trips a year over a few years but not the abuse of multiple trips on a weekly basis. A couple of the very best waders from this affordable category are reviewed above.

Some products are designed for more avid hunters and many of those come with some warranty protection.

The peace of mind that your waders are designed for heavy use and come with manufacturer product support is a distinct value to the right buyer. Waders that fit into this category are discussed as “The Best of the Best.”

• Do you plan on hunting warm or cold weather/water?

For this question, make sure you consider not just the air temperature, but if you will be required to stand in cold water. Apparently, some hunters spend their time in flooded fields where waders are helpful but the hunter is not paying their day in the thigh-deep water.

If you will be hunting in cold weather and water, a thicker neoprene wader is preferable. Also, attached boots may be a good choice because they are offered with thick insulation.

As a rule, rubber boots with thick padding and space for both warm socks and air will be warmest.

Wearing super warm waders on hunts in warmer weather or where lots of moving is required can be as bad as being too cold. Profuse sweating can lead to being very uncomfortable.

If you plan to be in warm weather, consider a breathable wader or a wader with at least breathable uppers. With lighter waders, layering underneath for warmth is possible. You are more stuck in the situation if your waders are too warm for the conditions.

• How much will you be moving around?

Some hunting requires driving an ATV or boat right to your blind, and some require wading, hiking or paddling to a spot. Many hunters have dogs to retrieve their down birds but some must wade or use a boat to recover them.

You might be a hunter that avoids the blind altogether and simply hikes to ponds and jump-shoots waterfowl.

The answer to this question will turn up similar results as the weather conditions question. If you are going to be doing a lot of sitting with minimal movement, a very warm wader will probably be needed to keep you comfortable.

On the other hand, if you will be moving around a lot, a cooler, breathable wader will be necessary to help you ventilate and regulate your body temperature.

If covering ground or lots of wading is required, a stocking-foot wader with a good pair of lace-up wading boots is a smart choice for comfort and traction. When much sitting is required, the warmer attached boots are likely better.

• What environments do you hunt in?

A few environmental factors that come into play when considering which waders to choose are thorny bushes, ice on the water and thick mud.

Both thorns and jagged ice edges while wading are hard on waders, particularly those made of breathable materials. If you plan to spend much time encountering either, you need waders that are reinforced to deal with the abuse or neoprene waders that are at least more durable.

The type of surfaces you are required to walk on will be a significant factor in whether you go with bootfoot or stockingfoot waders.

If the conditions are muddy, you need a stockingfoot wader that can be tightly laced to stay on your feet instead of staying in the mud.

Many have made the mistake of wearing loose-fitting bootfoot waders in thick mud and have continually struggled to pull their boot from the mud instead of removing their foot from their boot.

Crawling through the mud to keep from walking out of your waders is an unpleasant scenario you should try to avoid.

• How much money are you willing to spend?

Because wader price varies so significantly, the price is likely to play into your selection. There are some great values on the market, and some of those are reviewed above. However, for the most part, the very best waders are going to cost you some coin.

If you are not willing to shell out for the best available, determine your priorities for what you need in a wader, and that will show you where you can compromise to find something in your budget.

These questions represent some of the basic parameters for making your wader selection. As you answer them, you may find that your answers do not point you to one particular wader.

Like many kinds of gear, if you often hunt and in a variety of situations, more than one pair of waders may be required to do the job right. In your own experiences, you might find other contributing factors to future wader purchases.

Leading Brands

Depending on when you are reading this article, some products reviewed above may no longer be available. In many cases, the products heralded as the best are made by a brand that has made industry-leading products for a long time.

Whether you are looking for an alternative to a product that is no longer being produced, or you are looking for other options that may be suitable for your needs, consider the following brands.

USIA

As discussed in the “Best of the Best” wader section, USIA has not been historically known for making hunting waders. However, they are very well known for making dry suits, dive suits and survival suits for a variety of military and government applications.

If a brand is trusted to create products that keep professionals alive, they can be trusted to make a product that keeps recreational waterfowl hunters dry.

In almost any product category, “custom” manufacturers typically sell less volume than a brand selling stock waders off shelves all over the country. However, USIA has plenty of customers that are beyond satisfied with their products.

It is a sure sign that a product is superior when the price is on the high end of the spectrum, but the product is still viewed as a good value by its consumers. Such is the case with USIA products.

They stand behind their products and offer excellent customer service should you run into a problem. Their waders are made custom in the USA.

USIA products, background, and business model are all unique to the market, but certainly worth consideration if you are searching for top of the line hunting waders.

Cabela’s

Depending on the product, or who you ask, Cabela’s waders are said to be made for Cabela’s by a variety of different brands.

Some of their waders are sourced from factories overseas that are likely the same factories that produce same or similar products for big name brands. What is clear is that Cabela’s offers a wide variety that are of comparable quality to the competition at lower prices.

Cabela’s is unique because they most likely offer a wader that matches your needs, regardless of what they are. While many brands are known for producing a specific style of wader, Cabela’s has an offering in almost every category.

They are also known across the market for having excellent customer service and a reliable warranty policy. In many situations, they apply a “no questions asked” policy, where you simply send them in for replacement if you have a problem.

If they have this policy on your purchase and you take the time to go through the process, their waders become an even greater value.

LaCrosse

Whenever you come across a company that has been in business for over a century, you know they are doing something right.

In 2017, LaCrosse celebrated its 120th year in business, a clear cornerstone of the boot and wader industry. Adding to that is their merger with Danner Boots which has been in hunting boot business since 1932.

With over 200 years of combined history in the market, it is not hard to see why they are renowned for quality products.

You can reasonably expect LaCrosse to have a product on the market that is at the leading edge of advancement. They continually strive to be market leaders, and they stand behind their product as the best available to consumers.

Recommended reading: Pros and Cons of Hunting: Ethics, Culture, and Conservation

The post 6 Best Duck Hunting Waders Reviewed (Hands-on Guide) appeared first on Outdoor Empire.

Sometimes, they only go a short distance but out of eyesight and other times they manage to go quite far, even while terminally hit.

Most hunters will experience some amount of anxiety and doubt as the animal runs off, even if they are pretty certain they hit the deer well.  

The longer you have to track your deer or the more trouble you have finding signs of where the deer went, the more that anxiety grows.

Knowing some tips on tracking and recovering your hit deer will do a lot to alleviate that anxiety and increase your odds of a quick recovery.  

Watching Your Shot 

The recovery process starts as soon as you release your arrow and what you see as the arrow impacts the deer will make a difference in how you go about tracking the animal.

Bright fletchings or vanes on your arrow are a big help for watching the flight and seeing where the arrow hits the deer.

Many states have now legalized lighted nocks, which also help you see where the arrow hits, especially in low light conditions.  

If possible, you want to observe not just where the arrow hits, but also how deep the arrow penetrates. A well-placed shot just behind the shoulder should be a double-lung shot and the deer will likely not go far before expiring.

Further reading: Where To Shoot A Deer: 6 Kill Zone Shot Placements w/ Graphics

If you are sure you have done that level of damage, you can start the tracking process a little sooner. If you think you may have hit farther back, only clipped one lung, or not gotten ideal penetration, you should wait longer before starting to track the deer.  

Even if a deer is hit in a somewhat marginal spot, it will often not go far before bedding down. It may take it some time to expire, and starting to track it too soon may cause you to bump it from its bed.

Deer that are able to get back on their feet after being bumped have been known to travel for considerable distances, and it can often turn into a drawn-out tracking process.  

You should also observe the reaction of the deer after the shot, which can give you some clues about what kind of hit it has taken.

Obviously, deer behavior will differ, so you should use deer reaction in conjunction with other indications to form your best guess as to where the deer is hit:

• A deer that has suffered a double lung injury will often run hard and fast for one or two hundred yards before falling dead.  
• If the deer is hit in the heart, it is common for them to jump and mule kick before taking off on a fast, erratic run, which usually does not cover the distance of a lung-hit deer. 
• A deer hit far back in the guts, intestines or liver may flinch at impact and then run a short distance with its head down before slowing and eventually bedding down. 
• If you hit bone you will likely hear a distinct sound and may observe the deer favoring the leg you hit if that is the case. 
• An alert deer that bounces off with its tail waving high, stopping and looking back to where it came from is often indicative of a clean miss.   

Scouring the Location of the Shot 

If you think you hit only a single lung or hit the deer too far back, it would be wise to not advance your location at all until some time passes.

Even moving the distance from where you shot to where the deer was could be enough to bump the deer if it bedded down inside of 100 yards.

Some hunters will wait several hours if the deer is hit far back, some will back out of the area and return the next morning.  

Whether you have waited hours to go check the area, or whether you are confident in a good hit and waited just a short time to go check the scene, make mental notes of where the deer was when you shot it.

Walk to that spot and start looking for signs like blood, hair, bone fragments and your arrow. You should combine what you find here with your observations so far to start forming a better idea of exactly what the shot did. 

Arrow – If you find your arrow, you can examine it for the type of blood and matter that is on it. You can also see how much of the arrow has blood on it to determine how far it penetrated.  

An arrow that is covered in blood, including the fletchings or vanes, was a complete pass through. An arrow with no blood, hair or guts on it was a clean miss. If the arrow has blood on 20 inches of the shaft, that is how far the arrow penetrated.  

Blood – Whether it is on the arrow, the ground, or surrounding brush, the blood itself will also give you some hints about where the deer was hit.

Pink and foamy blood is a good indication of a lung or a heart shot. If the blood is very dark colored, it is likely a liver shot.  

Lack of blood but presence of brown and watery fluids are signs of a gut shot. You should also be able to smell the stomach contents if you hit it too far back.  

Hair – The hair you find can also help indicate where the deer was hit. If you find longer brown hairs you probably hit the deer forward near the vitals.

If the hair is shorter and brown, there is a better chance you hit it farther back. If you find white hairs and not much blood, you may have hit it low or forward, superficially.  

Following the Trail 

The new hints you found may alter how long you wait before continuing on the trail. If things are pointing to a paunch-shot deer, some people will wait 12 hours or more for the animal to die.  

Even on a heart shot deer, some hunters wait an hour unless they actually observe it expiring. This is going to differ a little with each hunter and a lot by scenario. We will discuss some of the external factors to consider a little later. 

After the wait is over, it is time to start tracking the deer. At this point, it never hurts to have friends there to help, especially if you are concerned about how well the deer is hit.

Even if the recovery is quick, at least you will have friends there to help with the work of getting your deer out of the woods or field. 

The most obvious sign to follow is the blood trail. If you are able to continuously find drops of blood, that will be the easiest way to track the deer.

Even if the trail starts out very obvious, make sure to mark your path with flagging, toilet paper or some other system so you can circle back to the last known spot if you lose the trail.  

Of course, the blood trail is not always that obvious. If there is not a lot of blood, you will have to look for other indications like tracks, disturbed dirt, and leaves, broken branches, etc. 

If you have multiple people looking, a couple guys scouring the identified trail and a couple grid searching the flanks of the trail may be helpful.  

As you follow the trail, keep some things in mind. The direction of the deer’s travel should be indicated by the pointed end of the blood drops on the ground if they form that way.

Many hit deer go downhill or head for thick brush if they are going to bed down. A gut shot deer is very likely to try to find water, so keep that in mind if you end up having to guess which direction it headed. 

Remember to not just stare at the ground while you track. Scan everything from very close to farther away. This gives you a chance to spot the deer farther out or see signs of its movement that may be tricky to pick out at close range. 

If the Trail is Lost 

If you lose the blood trail or tracks, you are definitely going to want help if you can get it.

Your best bet at that point is to go to the last known location (hopefully marked by flagging or perhaps your GPS) and start making circles from there of increasing size.  

While the temptation may be to continue moving farther away from the initial shot location, do not discount the areas back where you came from.

It is not uncommon for animals to circle back, double back or for you to miss a turn they made earlier in the tracking process.  

Other Tracking Factors 

As mentioned before, there are other things that will play into your ability to track the animal and how long you can afford to wait before starting the process.

Weather is a huge one of these factors. Some weather scenarios to take into consideration are: 

1. If it is pouring down rain blood trails and tracks may get washed away quickly. You will probably need to start the tracking process sooner than later. 

2. Snow can be great for tracking because hoof prints and blood both show up well… unless it is actively snowing hard. If the snow is coming down you might have to risk bumping the deer, knowing that you should be able to track its prints in the snow. 

3. The temperature will also be a factor. If it is very warm you might need to try to recover the animal within a couple hours to save the meat from spoiling. If the weather is very cold, you have a little bit of leeway because the animal should start cooling as soon as it dies. 

You may also have to take into consideration predators in the area. If you are in an area with bold coyotes or bears, you may not be able to let the deer sit for long, lest something else come along and eat it.  

In other situations, you might want to give the deer extra time to expire where it is presumably bedded because the harm in bumping it is exasperated by the potential for it to move onto adjacent property that you do not have access to.  

As you can see, there are a lot of factors that could go into the recovery process and you should make sure to think through them as the situation transpires. 

Conclusion 

Hopefully, by applying these tips to your situation you are able to successfully improve your tracking skills.

The thought of not recovering an animal is the lowest imaginable feeling for most hunters and the one that this article hopes to help you avoid.

Remember to take ethical shots within in your competency level at the onset and be patient and observant during the tracking process. That combination should provide many seasons of positive results.  

Related: How Long After Shooting a Deer Do You Have to Gut It?

The post Tracking Deer After Your Shot: A Guide to Recovering Arrow-Hit Deer  appeared first on Outdoor Empire.

It is pretty easy to see why the topic is a source of much disagreement. Every shooting scenario includes a huge list of variables.

Once all the variables are identified, the decision comes down to the best judgment of the hunter. As you can imagine, this varies.  

There are several places you can shoot a deer that will kill it in a quick and humane fashion. Of course, some of them are evaluated as riskier than others.

Whether shooting a bullet or an arrow, a well-placed shot just behind a deer’s shoulder will do devastating damage to both lungs and the heart. Perfect killshots enter through the ribs and exit the far side. This creates minimal meat damage, considerable blood loss, and an easy-to-see blood trail.

This article will discuss deer kill zones, shot placement, and shot angles for those hunting with either a rifle or a bow.  

The intent here is not to render a verdict on the ethics of each shot, but to provide readers with information that they can apply to their own decisions in the field.  

Deer Shot Placement and Angles

1. Broadside Presentation: The Ideal Choice for a Humane Kill 

We might as well start with the shot that is most widely accepted as ideal: the broadside shot.  

As you watch your favorite hunting show on TV, this is the shot they are all waiting to execute as the deer takes those final few steps into the open.

A broadside deer provides a large target with unimpeded access to its vitals and clear references for shot placement.  

Whether you are shooting with a rifle or a bow, a shot landed just behind the shoulder, right at or above the point created by the shoulder, will penetrate both lungs and the heart.  

The Ideal Shot

In a perfect situation, this shot enters through or between ribs and exits through the ribs on the opposite side. The benefits of this kind of shot are that it minimizes meat damage while at the same time creating a lot of blood loss, which makes for a blood trail that is easy to see and track.

While some shots provide challenges for the arrow because it may encounter bone, an arrow contacting a rib should be no problem, especially if you have done your homework on hunting arrows. The same is true for smaller caliber rifles.  

This shot is considered ethical because it also affords the most margin for error. The lungs are a big target, and particularly with a rifle, if you miss forward on the animal you will likely break one or both shoulders.

What if You Miss?

Missing high puts you in an area where you may break the deer’s back, and missing low generally will be a complete miss, or a survivable flesh would.  

Missing toward the back of the animal means your shot will hit the deer in the gut, and if you are “lucky,” the liver. Many gut-shot animals are recovered, but it is definitely not an advisable place to hit a deer.

2. Quartering Presentation: Pretty Good Access to the Vital Organs 

While a broadside shot through the vitals provides minimal meat loss, some people prefer a slight quartering away shot.

If the deer is quartering away and you aim slightly farther back than if it were broadside, you should take out the lungs and the heart, and hit the off shoulder.  

With most rifles and bows, this will break the off shoulder and most likely take the deer off its feet. Big game animals are tough, and even with a perfect broadside vital shot, they can run quite far. 

There are a variety of reasons a person might not want the animal to run off:  

1. For example, if it is getting dark or pouring rain, tracking can be difficult. Sometimes in public land hunting, you have to be concerned about your fatally wounded deer running into another hunter that also shoots it.

2. Some hunters just prefer to knock an animal down where it stands so there is no risk of not recovering it.

In any of these situations, the quartering away shot would be effective because it is lethal, but also should immobilize the deer.  

Downsides

1. The downside of the quartering away shot is that you will experience some meat loss in the off shoulder.

This could be minimal with an arrow or a small caliber rifle that does not create too much shock or bloodshot but could be up to the whole front quarter with a big bore rifle.  

2. The other downside of this shot with a bow is that there is a good chance your arrow will not exit the animal, so you would only have the entry hole creating a blood trail if the animal can move.

While the arrow will probably not shatter the off shoulder like a bullet would, it still should break it or make it difficult for the deer to use that leg. 

Quartering away or to you?

If the deer is quartering to you, the shot is a no-go with a bow. The nearside front shoulder will effectively block the vitals, and an arrow cannot be relied upon to cause enough damage to the shoulder to bring it down.

In the quartering away shot, if the arrow breaks the far shoulder it is a bonus to the already fatal damage it has done.  

With a rifle, whether the animal is broadside or quartering-to, most deer calibers will easily go through the shoulder and continue on to create sufficient damage to the vitals.

Again, you are looking at meat loss in one or both shoulders, but in all likelihood, an easy to recover animal that you took with a quick and humane kill.  

3. Facing Presentation: Tempting, but Tricky 

A deer facing you provides a path to its heart, which could be effective, but it is definitely riskier and more challenging than the broadside angle.   

By not passing an arrow or bullet perpendicularly through the side of the chest cavity, you can only hit one lung.

While puncturing a single lung will probably kill the deer eventually, taking out both lungs is important. That is why you are trying to hit the heart on a facing shot. 

Again, this shot is going to be more forgiving with a rifle. If you hit high you will likely break its neck or back. If you miss right or left, you will probably damage a lung and break a shoulder.

Because the vitals sit low in the chest cavity, a low hit should still be fatal, unless it just grazes the brisket.  

Most bowhunters will tell you their choice is to pass on this shot, although a few are confident in this shot.

The trick is to use a bow that can fire an arrow with adequate kinetic energy to punch through some bone and to be accurate enough to hit a small target.  

4. Deer Neck Shot Placement: A Risky Proposition from Any Angle 

If you have not caught on, the shots are getting riskier as we go on. With a rifle, a neck shot is actually the choice of some hunters and a total no-go for others.

Where to neck shot a deer comes down to where the spine is. The safest neck shot placement on a deer would be halfway between the top or back of it’s neck and the front or underside of its neck about where the white patch is on a whitetail. A buck in full rut has likely built up muscle mass near the top so aiming too high might only injure the deer. Whereas if you aim too low you may miss the spine and hit the esophagus. On a doe, you may want to aim slightly above the halfway mark.  

When done right, the shot destroys a portion of the deer’s spine, rendering it dead in seconds. With a high-powered rifle, this does not always mean you have to hit the deer directly in the vertebrae.

Generally, the impact of the bullet creates enough concussion to do the job if you hit solid muscle within a couple inches of the spine. 

If you do not miss entirely, and only catch the windpipe or the edge of the neck, this can turn into an ugly miss. Sometimes, the shot is not fatal, but the deer loses the ability to raise its head.  

Because no vitals have been damaged, the deer goes stumbling off with its head stuck hanging low, without any injury that is going to cause death quickly.

This could create a difficult tracking scenario where recovery is anything but guaranteed. 

Just like the facing shot, the neck shot is one that divides archers. While some are confident that they can either punch the spine or sever major arteries, others feel the shot is too low percentage to try.

You definitely do not have the advantage of the concussion you get from a high-powered rifle. So you need to be certain you can hit a very small target before attempting this shot. 

5. Headshot: Considerable Accuracy Required

The headshot is the most lethally effective when done right. This is true whether shooting a deer right between the eyes or aiming for the brain from the side. However, it can potentially be the most brutal when done wrong.  

In terms of bullets, nothing turns the lights out on a deer faster or more humanely than a round to the head.

The same cannot be said for a bear whose skull is much thicker and may result in a non-lethal shot. There are better shot placements for black bear.

However, if you miss by just a little, you risk hitting it in the jaw. This will lead to almost certain, agonizing death days or weeks later.

Obviously, if you execute a headshot effectively there is no meat loss and no tracking to be done.

Many people make it out to be an “all or nothing” shot. You are either going to kill it immediately or miss, but that is not the case. As far as target size, a non-lethal hit to the jaw or nose is at least as big as the brain area.  

While some deer have certainly died via arrow to the head, it is again not recommended by most archery hunters.

The round nature of the skull creates the potential for a deflection if the arrow point and blades do not contact the bone at a perpendicular angle.  

6. The Base of the Skull: Best For Killshot

This shot could be in the headshot category or the neck shot category because it is located right where the two meet. Again, it has a very low margin for error.  

This shot is called out here because while it is not a great initial shot, it is a good kill shot.

From either point-blank range or a range from which you are confident finishing off a wounded animal, this shot will kill it immediately with minimal additional meat loss, but also will not damage the skull or antlers if that is a concern for you.

Deer Kill Zones

Most hunters and wildlife officials agree that there are really only two sure kill zones on a deer:

1. Chest: The main and largest vital organs are found here offering the greatest likelihood for a quick and humane kill.
2. Head: When the brain is shot, consciousness is lost almost immediately and death will quickly follow.

A chest shot is widely considered to be the most effective kill zone on a deer as it passes through the vital organs, particularly the heart and lungs.

While a perfectly placed head shot on a deer is likely to provide the quickest and most humane kill, the target is much smaller than the vital organ zone in the chest. This makes a slightly misplaced head shot risky in the sense that you could sadly injure the animal without putting it down. And a head injury could lead to extreme suffering of the deer if it is not fatal.

Additionally, the head is the most likely part of a deer to move when you are lining up your shot. Deer will move their heads from side to side or up and down while browsing. They may quickly jolt their head upwards if they sense danger. Their chest, however, remains relatively stable even when going about their regular business.

Poor timing could lead to a botched head shot due to the deer moving ever so slightly. That risk is much lower with a chest shot.

Head shots may also put at risk the antlers, or trophy, on a big buck. After all, the brain sits just under the antlers on a deer. If you want to do a euro mount or take your deer to a taxidermist, a head shot is probably a bad idea.

For meat hunters on the other hand, a successful head shot will preserve the most meat possible on a deer compared to a chest shot which always results in some loss of meat.

Rifle Caliber Considerations 

When rifle calibers are discussed for deer hunting, you typically have various schools of thought. Some people believe that bigger is always better.

Others prefer smaller caliber rifles because reduced recoil lends itself to better accuracy. Still, others are open to both extremes and anything in between, preaching shot placement as the most important factor.  

The people that side with shot placement contend that a well-placed shot with a small caliber rifle is better than an ill-placed shot with a big bore rifle.

There is quite a bit of validity to this argument, but using a big-bore rifle definitely opens the door to some additional shot placement possibilities. 

On one extreme end of the conversation- consider trying to take a deer down with a rimfire cartridge like a .22. In all likelihood, you would be forced to try to do it with a headshot as your first choice.

As discussed above, this is a small target with a gruesome downside.  

With a smaller centerfire round like a .223, you could effectively perform the broadside vital shot, but would probably not break both shoulders if that is what you tried to do.  

With big magnum calibers like the 7mm Remington Magnum, .300 Winchester Magnum or .300 Remington Ultra Magnum, smashing through shoulders is no problem.

Even other mid-sized rounds like the .270, 30.06 or .308 should have no problem breaking through bone on their way to the vitals of a deer.  

Regardless of where you are aiming, high-powered rifles will give you a little more margin for error because they create concussion and shock to areas outside of their bullet path.  

Range 

Whether it is with a bow or a rifle, the range of the shot creates a bunch of additional variables.

Shooting skills are a huge factor, especially if the shot were to be taken in a vacuum. Outside of perfect conditions, skills are still a factor, but so are other elements like wind. 

The longer the shot attempt, the more these factors come into play.

You must also consider that bullet and arrow flight take more time as you get farther away from the animal. The animal moving while your projectile is on the way is a very real possibility.

It is common for deer to “jump the string,” or flinch when they hear the sound of the arrow being released. Depending on whether they duck or jump, this can cause a high or low miss.  

Because long-range bullets travel at supersonic speeds, deer do not have a chance to react to a shot until after the bullet gets there.

However, when you start talking about shots outside of a few hundred yards, it is reasonable that an animal could change position from normal movements by the time the bullet gets there.  

All of these variables increase exponentially with range. You should narrow down your shot selection as the range increases.  

Wrap Up 

Over the course of this article, you may feel as though it was funneling you towards taking broadside shots at the shoulders and vitals.

There are other shots that are effective for some hunters with certain weapons and skill-sets. But there is a reason why a huge percentage of animals are harvested every year with broadside shots. It is a high-percentage shot that is both effective and humane.  

Make sure that you evaluate each shot scenario based on your competency and the important variables discussed in this article.

It is always a good reminder that you cannot take a bullet back once you have fired it. And for all the joy a good hit brings you, a bad hit can bring you at least that many sick feelings. Choose your shot wisely!

Next, it’s time to field dress your deer and transport it home.

Related: How Long After Shooting a Deer Do You Have to Gut It?

The post Where To Shoot A Deer: 6 Kill Zone Shot Placements with Graphics appeared first on Outdoor Empire.

Some people will contend that you do not need camo clothing to be successful while hunting, which is true to only a certain extent.

While lots of animals have been harvested over the years by people not wearing camo, concealment is definitely on a long list of details that each make you just a little more successful. 

Many animals seem to key in on movement more-so than color or shape, but some animals like ducks and coyotes do a very good job of picking out unconcealed people, even if they are holding still.

Good camouflage that matches your surroundings might not be essential in every situation, but it definitely does not hurt your chances. 

For the most part, if you are going to buy clothing that is designed for hunting, your options are all going to come with camouflage prints. Whether you are perusing online or walking through a store, the wide variety of available patterns can be overwhelming.

The intent of this article is to make the process of choosing the camo pattern that is right for you and your hunting scenario a little easier.  

Types of Camouflage 

Your first consideration when selecting camouflage clothing is deciding on the type of camouflage pattern that will work best for your situation. This primarily means picking between three different choices:  

1. Mimicry-Based Camouflage 

Mimicry camo clothing borrows its strategy from a host of animals that use it as their primary defense against predators. The concept is to make yourself look like something you are not.

In the terms of camo patterns, this means looking like the vegetation you are hunting in.

For years Mossy Oak and Realtree brands have dominated the camouflage hunting apparel market with printed patterns that include imagies of tree bark, leaves, sticks, and grass.

They have made clothes meant for hunting open desert, dark timber, snow-covered areas and everything in between.  

As the two most prominent players in the field with many patented patterns, manufacturers have paid for the rights to use these patterns on their apparel, guns, boots, vehicles, and accessories.

While other brands have attempted to design their own mimicry camo patterns, none have been so popular as Realtree and Mossy Oak.      

2. Breakup Camouflage 

Breakup camo is what probably pops into many people’s minds when they hear the word “camouflage.” The idea behind breakup camo is to blur your body’s outline so you blend in with your surroundings. 

Instead of trying to look like what you are standing in front of, breakup camo is designed to make you disappear into it.

The traditional brown, green and black military camo pattern is a basic example of breakup camo.

Today, digital breakup camo patterns are common for both military and hunting applications. Dedicated brands like Pnuma make camouflage apparel with unique patterns to conceal a hunter.

One major advantage of a breakup camouflage pattern over a mimicry pattern is that it makes movement harder to detect. By blurring your outline into the surroundings, there are less hard edges to be seen as you sneak through the woods.  

Sitka and Kuiu are two major players in the high-end hunting apparel market and both have played a role in making breakup camouflage more popular. By designing their own digital camouflage pattern, they have avoided paying to use another proprietary pattern and they have made the pattern a huge part of their brand identity.  

While a Mossy Oak jacket could be made by a variety of different brands, it is easy to identify someone as wearing clothes from the Sitka line. 

Like mimicry patterns, breakup patterns are made in a variety of color combinations, each ideal for a different setting.  

3. Three-Dimensional Camouflage 

While not the most practical for moving around in, 3D camouflage is probably the end-all for going unseen. You may see some mimicry or breakup patterns marketed as 3D.

However, the products that actually fall into this category literally use the third-dimensional plane as part of their system.  

This means added texture and volume in the form of fake leaves, grass or other excess material. An example of 3D camo that many people are familiar with is the Ghillie suit. Most Ghillie suits are full body outfits covered in several inches of multi-colored grass. 

Because 3D camo clothing is difficult to move in and becomes caught on things easily, it is best used when the hunter will be stationary. An example of when 3D camo would be somewhat practical is stand hunting for predators.  

For most big game animals 3D camo is cumbersome and overkill, especially since most animals in that category are not necessarily known for having great vision in the first place. 

Picking the Right Camo 

After narrowing down the camouflage choices available to you, you’ll need to select the best option for the setting in which you’ll be hunting and for the species you pursue.  

By Setting 

In order to get the full benefits of camo clothing, you must pick a pattern that works well for the area you hunt in. A dark Mossy Oak pattern may work great in heavy timber, but if you use it in open, snowy country, the contrast could make it worse than no camo at all.  

In any given state, there could be three or four types of terrain that all have significantly different plant life. Each of those different settings will also change colors over the course of seasons.  

In a perfect world, you might have three or four different sets of camo to cover all the areas you hunt. However, anyone who has purchased a quality hunting jacket knows that one set of clothes is expensive enough, let alone several.

Consider the areas that you hunt most, and try to pick a pattern that matches the backdrop. It may be that one of the top mimicry brands makes something that is ideal for the area you hunt, which would make it a good choice.

Some of the digital camo patterns are a little more versatile because they have incorporated various colors that do a good job of blending in with a variety of backdrops.  

Some of the modern military camo patterns were designed to help conceal personnel that spent time in several different settings but only had one pair of fatigues.

Hunting camo designers have followed that model with their patterns, so you should be able to find a pattern that encompasses most of the areas you visit.

Snow can be a big game changer, so a lot of people go with one lighter color set and one darker color set. 

A lot of times, the type of terrain the pattern is designed for is included in the name. Sitka uses “Optifade Open Country,” “Subalpine,” and “Waterfowl Timber” or “Waterfowl Marsh.” Mossy Oak uses “Mountain Country” and “Duck Blind.”  

This is a tactic that other brands use to some extent, but there are a lot of names out there that are not indicative of what they are intended for (like “Elevated” or “Obsession.”).

If a name from the list does not jump out at you as matching your setting, you will have to use the eye test instead.

By Species

In a lot of ways, it is probably easier to talk about various camo choices based on the species being targeted. You can certainly identify a few major sectors of what is available.

Waterfowl is one area that has distinctly different patterns because most of the hunting is done around water or in flooded fields with tall grass or cattails. For the most part, the yellow hues of grass blade camo do not blend in well with big game locations.

Likewise, unless you are hunting flooded timber, the patterns designed for woods hunting are pretty dark and obvious in a duck hunting setting.      

As mentioned in the discussion of 3D camo, a full Ghillie suit may work out well for hunting coyotes or other predators. This is especially true in situations where you do not have a good blind, or the cover is a little limited.

A full 3D camo suit will allow you to become a bush just about anywhere there is vegetation. 

Most other camo patterns are made to be used in big-game hunting situations, or animals found in similar areas to big game (like turkeys).  

Other Considerations 

While Mossy Oak and Realtree have done well to hold down a huge share of the hunting camo market for so long, many of their patterns are designed for very specific applications. This is true with many mimicry patterns.  

What Sitka and Kuiu have discovered with their camo options is that by having a few different patterns that are a little more versatile, their camo choices rarely prevent someone from buying their products.

And, if you make top of the line apparel, the last thing you want to do is offer it only in camo patterns that are a deal-breaker for hunters.   

Although this article is focused on the camouflage element of concealment, remember that many animals rely heavily on scent and sound to detect predators.

Some of the clothing brands make clothes that include a scent barrier or have a material finish that is much quieter than others.  

So, for species like deer and elk that are better at catching movement than they are spotting still objects, other attributes of the apparel should be taken into consideration as well.   

Conclusion 

Because there are countless different hunting settings, most of which change color over the course of the year, there is no single right answer for which camo to use in any specific region.  

Your best bet is to consider the areas you will be hunting the most and what they look like when you hunt them. Then pick a pattern that matches the colors reasonably well. Camo that is not quite right for the terrain you are hunting is still more helpful than blue jeans and flannel. 

The post A Guide to Hunting Camo Patterns (By Type, Location, Species) appeared first on Outdoor Empire.

There are a lot of reasons to introduce kids to hunting. It is a wholesome hobby that teaches valuable life lessons, encourages exercise and promotes spending time outdoors. In addition to the reasons that hunting is a good activity for the individual, getting the next generation involved is good for the overall sport.

– As the world becomes increasingly modern and technology-flooded, and gun and hunting rights continue to be challenged, hunting is in danger of becoming a thing of the past.

– Today’s youth will be responsible for keeping the sport alive by advocating for gun and hunting rights in the future. Hunters are also some of the primary activists that support habitat restoration and wildlife management.

– Hunting encourages quality time with family or mentors. Instead of playing games indoors on an iPad, it gets kids outside, spending valuable time interacting with people and nature. Many types of hunting are a good source of exercise and teach healthy lessons about the processes through which food makes it to your table.

Plenty of moms and dads look forward to a time when they have kids old enough to take along hunting. This article will explore how to know when the time is right for those first experiences, and how to make those experiences positive memories for your new hunter.

When to Get Them Started

Like is true when it comes to many youth activities, if you get a child started too young, you run the risk of them burning out at an early age.

It does not matter if it is soccer or piano, kids get are often driven away from activities by overbearing parents that force them into hobbies. Some kids burn out early; others make it into their teenage or young adult years before they reach the point of pulling away from the activity.

It is best to let the child dictate their readiness and interest in hunting. Keep in mind that as soon as a kid is old enough to talk they are likely to start asking about going along on hunting trips. So, a little scrutiny will be required to determine when the time is right.

Every child is different, so there is not one set standard that can be applied to all children. When you are considering bringing them along on a hunt (as opposed to allowing them to actively hunt) some factors to consider are:

• Interest in hunting– Even if kids are not very interested in hunting from the onset, there is a chance they will come to like it if taken along. However, kids who are interested in going on their own may be ready to go at a younger age. If kids are a little hesitant, you will have better luck having a reasonable conversation with them about giving it a try when they are a little older.

• Attention span- Lots of hunting is not necessarily action-packed, this article will identify the types of hunts that are best for getting a child hooked, but kids with very short attention spans might need to grow up a little before they are ready to come along on a hunt.

• Willingness to follow instructions- Disobedient children are not ideal for a lot of activities, but when you add in guns, knives and outdoor elements, a kid not following directions can become a safety issue. If a kid wants to go, a hunting trip could be used as a reward for following directions well.

• Sensitivity levels- If you have a child that you think would be very upset with the death of an animal, allow some time to pass before they witness it on a hunt. Let them tag along on a scouting day where you are spotting animals but not shooting them. Eventually, they may start to show more interest in your success stories and ask to be there for the hunt itself.
• Stamina- Outside of mental stamina (see patience), physical stamina may play a role in them being ready to come along on a hunt. For the most part, kids probably have more energy than adults, but they may also wear themselves out quickly. If they tire easily and are likely to get discouraged by the work, wait till their legs are a little longer.

Starting Slow

Once you have determined that your child is ready to get involved with hunting, it is time to consider what their first outing should be.

If everything goes well, your youth hunter will grow up to enter the woods before sunrise and come out after sunset. They will be willing to endure foul weather and cover many rugged miles in a day to pursue game. However, long and intense hunts with low chances of success are not the best options for early experiences.

Before a kid is ready to carry their own weapon and harvest their own animals, let them target practice with air rifles or bring them to tag along on a hunt or a shed hunting trip. Here is some framework for what would make a good first hunt:

• A hunt that is about them: Even though the child will not be actively hunting, make sure it is a trip catered to them. Do not bring them on a hunt where you are focused on harvesting game. Their experience is the priority, and it is likely to play a big role in their interest in hunting moving forward.

• Go on a good weather day: Just like adults, kids are likely to find more enjoyment and be more patient on a day where the weather is good. A day where it is not bitter cold or pouring down rain would be the best start.

• Outfit them with good gear: Most grownups survive days in the woods by wearing hundreds of dollars in high-quality gear. Spending a bunch of money for a kid’s test-run might not be the best plan, but make sure they have good boots or shoes and enough clothes to stay warm and dry.

• Bring snacks: A snack break is a good way to add some entertainment while sitting in the blind or provide an intermission from walking through the woods or fields. Not to mention, a hungry kid is likely to lose interest much quicker than a well-fed one. Pack their favorite snacks and bring along a thermos of hot chocolate on those cooler mornings.

• Pick a hunt with some action: In a dream world, every hunt would involve encounters and successes, but much of hunting is not like that at all. Waterfowl, game birds, squirrels or other small game are good choices because you are likely to see some game and have some success. A big game hunt where you are likely to see lots of animals is not a bad bet either. Even a buck hunt where you see lots of does will probably keep a kid fairly entertained.

• Call it a day when they are ready: With any luck, patience will be something that your child learns organically through their experiences. It is not a lesson best forced upon them. If they ask to go home, you might encourage them to stay a little longer, but for the most part, heading home or back to camp when they are ready is best. If all the trips are very short, maybe postpone them going along for a couple. If they ask to go again, you can preface the trip by saying “you can go along, but we will be staying in the woods a little longer this time.”

• Let them choose their level of involvement: Kill shots, gutting and butchering animals are all a part of the sport- but just because a kid is ready to go for a hike in the woods, does not mean they are ready for the other parts of the hunt. You can establish that they will have to be willing to do those aspects before they can actually hunt, but do not force them to participate and observe if they do not want to. Likewise, if the kid wants to ease their way into it, find a safe way to get them involved like pulling on a leg while you do the cutting.

Shifting to Full Involvement

Those days when your youth hunter is just tagging along offer a great opportunity to further instill the responsibilities and skills involved in hunting. Make sure to maintain a focus on being a safe and ethical hunter, which will serve them well as an individual but also a steward of the sport and resource.

Once you are looking at making the jump to them actually hunting, consideration must be given in areas outside of the intrinsic factors discussed for early involvement.

For instance, beyond the kid’s maturity level and interest, legal limitations must be considered.

States do not have restrictions for just bringing kids along on hunts, but the same cannot be said for them becoming actual hunters.

Many states do not have a minimum age requirement for hunting. The youth hunter needs only be able to complete the hunter education course and pass a test to be issued a license. Some states have limited deferral or mentor programs, where a young hunter can participate without having passed a hunter safety course.

In these scenarios, the state allows them to go out under the tutelage of a hunter who has been licensed for at least a certain number of years.

Related: Why Do Hunters Wear Blaze Orange? (Plus What Animals See)

If your kid shows all the signs of being ready to hunt but lacks the reading and writing skills to pass the hunter safety course, they might be a good candidate for the deferral or mentor program. If they have the reading and writing skills, the course is a practical and useful step in earning the privilege to hunt.

In most states, those programs afford them one year before they have to pass the course, so it only makes sense in a few cases.

The age at which they are able to complete a hunter safety course and test usually corresponds well with the other indicators they are ready to hunt. The attention, understanding of rules and interest level required for the course are probably roughly equivalent to what they would need to actively hunt.

Click to see every state youth hunting age requirements:

In addition to meeting the legal requirements, here are some other attributes to look for:

• Willingness to fully participate in the process: While forcing a kid to gut an animal their first time going along on a hunt is not recommended, they should understand it is a part of being a hunter. Before they harvest an animal of their own they should be ready to do be involved from the first shot, to the last shot, and on through the field dressing and butchering process.

• Skills with the required weapon: Certain hunting methods have greater barriers to youth involvement. Archery can be difficult for the youngest of hunters because of the strength required to draw a real hunting bow although there are many youth bows and crossbows on the market, big game hunting with a rifle requires the shooter to deal with the recoil and weight of bigger caliber firearms. Pick a weapon that is geared towards youth hunter strength and stature, and make sure they are competent and safe with it.

• Ethics and decision- making: It can probably be assumed that an adult will be by the side of the young hunter as they make their early hunting choices. However, the old adage about not being able to un-pull the trigger is as true for kids as it is adults. Making sure that your child is old enough to understand the rationale behind decisions made in the field is crucial.

The First Real Hunt

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Most states offer opportunities that are unique to youth hunters. Often these are hunts where success is likely. These hunts can be for the female big game, offer a few days head start on game birds or waterfowl, or focus on areas where access to the territory is easy. These youth-catered hunts are excellent opportunities for first outings.

A hunt where the young hunter is the only tag-holder comes with the advantage of the adult mentor not being concerned with their own harvest. Most parents or mentors would take as much or more joy out of a young hunter harvesting their first animal, but some might still let their focus wander to their own successes.

Whether it is a youth hunt or a general opportunity, pick a hunt that coincides with the considerations we have already discussed. Early season hunts are likely to have better weather.

Game birds, waterfowl, varmints and deer can all be reasonably hunted with youth firearms and calibers. They also all typically provide a fair amount of encounters and a decent chance at success.

Keep in mind the outline of the first hunt as discussed above. You can gradually remove the “training wheels” by making the hunts a little longer, and encouraging your child to be more involved with the whole process. It is still best to start with a hunt that offers the following:

• Good weather
• High success rates
• Reasonable duration
• Adequate gear
• Youth-appropriate weapon

Talk (quietly) them through the stages of the hunt. As an experienced hunter, you have probably forgotten that you once had to learn many of the things you now know. As an example, to a young hunter, a finishing shot to the head of an animal may seem brutal. Offering a little explanation can help them understand that it a kill shot is the humane thing to do, and respectful to the animal.

Conclusion

Ultimately, hitting the timing just right and then planning and executing a perfect first experience should produce positive results. However, be prepared that even if everything goes well, hunting is not for everyone.

For some, it might be an acquired taste, and they may come around to liking it on their own at an older age. Similarly, know that everything is likely not to go quite as planned, and the kid will probably have a great time, anyway.

If you are successful in introducing them to hunting, be ready to experience great joy as you share in their successes. You will also feel good about introducing them to a healthy and wholesome activity that comes with a bonus of quality table fare.

And finally, by passing along the hunting tradition to the next generation, you will have done your part to keep the sport alive.

Related: How Long Does It Take to Learn to Hunt?

The post Young Hunters: When and How to Get Children Started appeared first on Outdoor Empire.