As water temperatures begin to cool, bass will start to seek out water that has less temperature change. The upper portion of the water column and surface has the most temperature variance throughout all seasons. The fish will begin to seek deeper water during the winter, choosing the lower portion of the thermocline as their sanctuary.

This leaves many anglers confused about how to target their green quarry throughout the coldest months, wondering if it’s the bait, the depth, the time of day or just plain bad luck.

One of the essential things bass anglers can focus on during the winter is the color and choice of lure.

Winter is like no other time of year when it comes to bass fishing, with neutral and natural colored baits yielding the best results. When it comes to lure choice, anglers must pick a bait that matches the environment but creates enough of a disturbance to trigger the predatory instinct of a bass.

In this article, we cover how to select the right bait and color for bass fishing this winter and how to chase lunkers during the coldest time of year.

Winter Bass Fishing

When angling for lunkers during the coldest time of the year, anglers often ask a few questions.

• What is the best bait for winter bass fishing?
• What are the best colors for winter bass fishing?
• How to target bass in the winter?

Below, we cover each of these in depth.

The Best Bait for Bass Fishing in Winter

Lure selection is significant when it comes to winter bass fishing. Size, style, and color all matter far more than in spring or summer when bass ravenously attacks anything that remotely resembles prey.

Below are some of the best baits for winter bass fishing.

1. Jerkbait

If you’re going to attract a passive bass in deeper water, jerk baits work well for two reasons. Their steady retrieve and oblong shape resemble a crankbait but with a longer profile. This bait can meander by a hungry, lazy bass, providing them an easy meal without spooking it from erratic behavior.

However, sometimes erratic behaviors are necessary to lure a bass out of its hibernation state. The jerkbait also excels with a pause-and-go retrieve, mimicking the action of a wounded baitfish that bass love. Weighting the jerkbait down allows anglers to work lower portions in the water column where the bass may lurk during colder weather.

2. Jigs

Jigs are excellent for fishing through the ice or working lower portions of the water column, as these lures are suspended at whatever target depth anglers want. Completely interchangeable when it comes to the plastics, the weighted jig head means that anglers are not required to introduce any extra weight onto the line.

3. Blade Baits

Because colder water is usually clearer, blade baits truly shine during winter bass fishing. The sunlight that penetrates deeper into the water is reflected off of the metallic frame of the minnow-shaped lure, drawing attention to it from every species in the area.

Additionally, if the water is cloudy or visibility is reduced due to low light conditions, blade baits rattle and produce vibrations that can summon bass no matter how cold the water temperature is.

4. Crankbaits

Tried and true, crankbaits are good year around. However, winter orders anglers to up their game and be more selective about which crankbait they throw.

Ones that resemble minnows or shad are your best bet, and they better be deep diving if you plan to hook into a big bass. A steady retrieval with a few pauses is always a good game plan but if the bite isn’t happening, don’t be afraid to try something new.

Pro Tip: Go with Rat-L-Traps. It makes more noise, is easier to stop and go, and is excellent for middle to lower portions of the water column.

5. Soft Plastics

While soft plastics may be a year-round lure choice, anglers must be very specific in selecting the bait’s body type, size, and color. Because actual lizards and frogs will be hibernating during this time of year, anglers will want to avoid using artificial plastic ones as lures.

Pumpkin seeds or deep purple soft plastic worms and crawfish have always been my go-to during the coldest time of year. Not only are they incredibly versatile lures, but you can also work every part of the water column with these lures. Pick small to medium-sized plastics and always keep your retrieve a little slower than you think it should be.

6. Live Bait

Live bait is often overlooked and underutilized when it comes to bass fishing. Particularly in the winter, I have fished plenty of lakes with a minnow or nightcrawler under a cork in the middle of the water column and have caught plenty of medium-size bass.

The combination of natural prey, placement in the water column, and movement create the perfect storm to trigger the predatory instinct of a bass.

How My Dad Picked the Best Bait for Winter Bass Fishing

Mike Pelle had just called it in on his three-day hunting weekend. The wind coming in with the cold front meant the deer would smell him from a mile away and there was no sense in freezing his tail off in a treestand without much chance of a kill.

On a whim, he stopped by a family member’s property on his way back to New Orleans and decided to fish the pond for an hour before getting back on the road. The pressure was dropping, and he suspected the fish might be trying to squeeze in one last meal before the cold snap.

Armed with a rod and reel nearly as old as he was, Mike tied on a faded red and white Heddon Lucky 13 and cast into the 3-acre pond.

His lure landed just in front of a small, half-submerged log, and on the first rotation of his reel, the lure disappeared.

To hear my old man tell it, he first thought he had hooked on a massive patch of grass…until the pulling started. Though it didn’t fight nearly as hard as a spring or summer lunker, the 20-inch bass still put up a struggle.

The Best Colors for Winter Bass Fishing

Picking the best colors for winter bass fishing can be tough. Most anglers think brighter, more radiant colors like neon, chartreuse, or bright red are the best colors for winter bass fishing. Unfortunately, you will probably go home empty-handed if you use those colors during the coldest months when angling for lunkers.

Generally speaking, winter bass bait colors should look like a bass’ primary food source at that time of year.

1. Neutral Colors are the Best

Keeping your baits neutral is essential when bass fishing during the winter. While spring and summer often spawn various insects and amphibians, winter sees very little of these creatures. Most of the food consumed by bass consists of other fish, crustaceans, or tiny aquatic organisms.

Because most of these creatures are not vibrant, anglers should select lures that match these prey species.

2. Dull Hard Plastics

When it comes to hard plastic baits such as crank or jerkbaits, the shiny green or gray colors with vibrant metal hues are a no-go. Think dull, think subdued, think natural. A bright metallic lure racing through the water might work during the hay days of summer, but it’s not likely to yield results in the winter.

3. Gold Spoons

When it comes to spoons, stay away from silver. Gold does a much better job during the colder months, and especially farther down the water column, it appears more natural to bass.

4. Green and Purple Soft Plastics

Your soft plastics that usually come in neon colors and often feature silvery flakes are things of the past. Stick to deep greens, purples, or pumpkin seeds.

5. Natural Crank Baits and Topwaters

Finally, if you’re going to work the upper portions of the water column with a shallow running crankbait or a topwater, don’t pick the most visually stimulating lure full of bright colors. Instead, go for the most natural-looking lure that closely resembles naturally-occurring prey in both style and coloration.

Visiting your local bait shop or doing some research before hitting the water can inform you about what species are native to the lake, stream, or pond you plan on fishing This can help you select the right color lure to catch bass.

How to Target Bass in the Winter

While picking the right color and lure may be easy, many anglers struggle with targeting bass in the winter. With the popular summer and spring hotspots empty, anglers must change tactics and pay attention to feeding patterns, weather, and time of day to catch bass during the colder months.

Feeding Patterns

Bass feeding patterns during the spring, summer, and fall can often look like targeting top water prey or schools of bait swarming in the shallows. During winter time, this is not the case.

Much of the insect and amphibian population hibernates during the winter, meaning the surface activity is lower. Additionally, the water exposed to the elements on the surface is usually cooler than that of the thermocline, making it so that the bass rarely venture near the surface or shallows unless the sun has warmed it up.

During winter, many bait fish that bass predate upon will find themselves at the bottom of lakes or up in creeks near structures. These bait fish are similarly lethargic to the bass, and their suspended activity doesn’t trigger the predatory instincts of the bass nearly as much as in spring or summer.

Weather

Winter is known for colder temperatures, less sunlight, and snow or ice in many locations throughout the United States. These factors can directly impact anglers’ ability to catch bass in myriad ways.

Cold

The ideal temperature spectrum for bass is water between 61 to 85°F. In this range, bass can spawn and feed unhindered, thriving in their aquatic habitat. The upper and lower ends of the spectrum do see a decrease in activity and bass will seek out deeper water where the variance in temperature is less.

Colder weather induces lethargy, making bass less aggressive and hungry as they stay in the thermocline. With cold weather often comes strong winds blowing cold air over the surface of the water, disturbing the water, polluting the clarity, and dropping the service temperature even further.

Less Sunlight

Because bass are sight predators, the limited amount of sunlight restricts their feeding hours significantly. Depending on the time of year and location in the United States, the difference in sunlight from spring and summer angling could be a few minutes to several hours.

The limited sunlight also reduces plant life and photosynthesis in the water for microorganisms and inhibits the water warming near the surface. Finally, less sunlight means that when there is direct exposure to the sun’s rays, bass will capitalize on this opportunity in colder weather to be comfy near the surface, providing the optimal time for bass anglers to target the upper portions of a water column.

Snow

Many locations throughout the United States face snow in the winter. In such cases, the water temperature drops rapidly with the introduction of ice into the environment. The surface of the water will plummet in temperature, while the thermocline and depths will take longer to change in temperature.

From an environmental standpoint, insects, amphibians, small birds, or mammals that bass may strike on the surface will hunker down on land and wait out the snow. When it’s snowing, it’s not the optimal time to angle for bass because the upper water column will be completely shut down. Anglers are limited to the lower portion of the thermocline, rapidly plummeting in temperature.

Ice

While many anglers may think ice fishing is entirely off the table for bass, that’s untrue. In northern states, bass can be caught beneath the ice regularly, provided the body of water has enough depth to accommodate vast transitioning from the colder upper portion of the water column into the thermocline.

If the lake is frozen, anglers should target the deeper locations that regularly have bass. Because ice is translucent, the surface of the water beneath the ice sheet is susceptible to change from exposure to sunlight. Anglers should target sunny days when ice fishing for bass, as enhanced water clarity and increased sunlight helps the bait stand out for lethargic bass.

4 Stellar Winter Bass Fishing Tips

1. Slow Your Roll

If winter bass fishing could be summarized in a single word, it would be slow. Anglers are required to have an abundance of patience when it comes to winter bass fishing due to the lack of activity and aggression by the fish.

When working a lure, anglers need to slow their retrieve down and present in a fashion that assimilates to the lethargy of the bait fish and bass in the water. Rather than the darting maneuvers or quick start and stop retrieves used during spring, summer, and fall months, winter angling is about presenting the bait to the bass as long as possible to allow it to strike.

2. Right Place, Right Time

The success or failure of a winter bass fishing trip can be decided by as little as place and time. Anglers should try to find days with the mildest weather conditions and target locations exposed to as much sunlight as possible. The more moderate the water and overall temperatures are, the higher the likelihood of increased activity from the bass.

With little cloud cover, the middle of the day can provide a high level of visibility, warmer water, and optimal bass fishing conditions. Additionally, anglers should stick to the basics of bass fishing, such as targeting submerged structures and areas with a high density of bait.

3. Size Matters

No matter what they tell you, size matters. This is especially true when winter bass fishing, as anglers cannot be picky and choosy about which bass they catch. The smaller the bay, the larger spectrum of bass you have a likelihood of catching. Pick baits that match the ecosystem in size, color, and species, and put them out there for the bass.

4. Hit the Bottom

Anglers should target the lower end of the thermocline and the bottom of the water column when fishing for bass during the winter. This is because there is little change in water temperature in these locations, and bass prefer that over the constantly fluctuating surface temperature. It is also where most of the bass will head if they can find structure in deeper water.

This is not to say anglers should try to dredge up mud or silt on the bottom of the lake or pond they are angling in. Instead, look to have the bait 1-6 feet off the bottom, depending on the overall water depth.

Conclusion

While bass fishing is one of the most popular kinds of angling in the US, it takes a hit during the colder months. Anglers are often hung out to dry by their favorite quarry who seem to have given up and vanished at the first sign of cold weather.

However, with the right lure and color combo and understanding bass patterns during the winter, anglers can still rip lips during the coldest time of year. We hope this article helps you fish for bass this winter.

Related: Early Fall Bass Patterns

As always, good luck, and stay safe out on the water.

The post The Best Colors and Baits for Winter Bass Fishing appeared first on Outdoor Empire.

However, much like a good pair of shoes, there is no one-size-fits-all solution to this problem.

Depending on the context, either of these blades could be a viable option for you. For camping or hunting, fixed blades give you unparalleled stability while folding knives give you a compact option for fishing or EDC.

This article covers the differences between a folding and fixed blade knife, when to use them, and a few pros and cons for each model.

DISCLOSURE: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Some links in this article are affiliate links. If you click on a link we may earn a commission if you make a purchase, at no additional cost to you.

Fixed Blade vs. Folding Knives

Fixed blade knives are made of one solid piece of metal that forms the blade and runs through the handle. This model is less compact than a folder but sturdier and incapable of mechanical failure.

Common types of fixed blade knives include:

• Boot Knife
• Camp Knife
• Dagger
• Gutting Knife
• Skinning Knife
• Drop Point
• Bowie
• Buck Knife

A folding knife hinges so that the blade folds into the handle. Often assisted with a spring, this knife can be more compact but lacks the stability of a fixed blade.

Common types of folding knives include:

• Clip Point
• Swiss Army Knife
• Butterfly Knife
• Assisted Opening Knife

Fixed Blade or Folding Knife for Hunting

A common question among first-time hunters and outdoorsmen is which knife is better for hunting, a folding knife or a fixed blade?

The short answer to this is, why not have both?

I find that the more options you have, the more likely you will come up with the right solution.

Folding knives are easy to conceal and store and take up less space than fixed-blade knives, making them a great option to keep in your pocket or jacket in the woods. They can do all sorts of tasks in the woods, from marking trees, cutting rope, tightening screws, or opening plastic-wrapped hand warmers quietly (I learned this the hard way).

Fixed-blade knives are sturdier, faster to deploy, and usually heavier. These knives are an excellent option for skinning and cleaning animals, self-defense, and use as a camp tool if necessary.

There is a time and place for both knives, but overall I prefer the fixed blade for hunting for several reasons.

Concealing a weapon or tool, such as a knife, when hunting is not as crucial as having quick access to it.

In the woods, if something can go wrong, it probably will, so removing the chance of mechanical failure with a folding knife is a good idea.

Skinning and cleaning an animal with a folding knife is a great way to get blood, guts, and hair in the inner workings of the knife. This can cause a malfunction. Stick with the sturdier fixed blade that you can rinse off after.

In a survival or self-defense situation, I prefer the most rugged and robust tool, usually the fixed blade.

That said, folding knives are great to carry in your hunting pack or pockets, and it’s usually the lighter of the two blades. If you’re looking to shave off ounces in a backcountry hunt with lots of hiking, consider going with the folding blade.

EDC

EDC or everyday carry is a phrase we frequently toss around in today’s outdoor and tactical communities. Simply put, it stands for the items you carry on your person throughout everyday life.

A part of people’s EDC is a blade, used as a multi-utility tool or as a line of defense if someone’s life or their loved ones are threatened.

While folding knives tend to be the most popular for EDC, fixed blades have their advantages too.

Size

When it comes to size, folding knives tend to have a smaller footprint, making them ideal for EDC. A fixed-blade knife with the same blade length as a folding knife will be nearly twice the size of a folding knife since it cannot collapse on itself.

Time

Fixed blade knives are already in their position of power when deployed from their sheath. Folding knives require you to remove them from concealment and then deploy the blade. Although there are folding knives with mechanical advantages, such as spring-loaded blades, as a whole, it is much faster to draw a fixed-blade knife.

Concealment

Many individuals don’t want to sacrifice blade length for concealment. This gives folding knives an edge as you can have a folding and a fixed blade with the same overall length, but the folding knife is half the size when closed.

However, plenty of fixed-blade knives come with sheaths that fit inside the pant or belt line and maintain a remarkable level of concealment for small daggers and drop-point knives.

Stability

Probably the most overlooked component of everyday carry when it comes to a blade is the stability of your tool. Folding knives will always be at a disadvantage because the lock could break, the blade could fail to stick in place, or a number of the inner workings could fail.

Fixed-blade knives cannot have a mechanical malfunction as they are one solid piece of metal, usually with a wooden or polymer handle, giving them the advantage.

Camping

When it comes to camping, there are several factors to consider when choosing between a fixed blade or a folding knife.

• Are you hiking to your campsite?
• What other tools are you bringing with you?
• Are you planning on overtly carrying your blade or stowing it away?

When backpacking into your campsite, it’s important to remember that ounces equal pounds on the trail or in the backcountry. Because of this, you may want to consider a folding knife, which frequently takes less space and weighs less than its fixed blade cousin.

If you are bringing other tools to the campsite, a folding knife is an excellent option for backpackers or car campers. The multi-utility blade can be stowed away for easy access and used in situations such as cutting rope, trimming bark, or even as a kitchen utensil.

However, if you don’t plan on bringing multiple camp tools, getting a fixed blade or knife may be a good idea. It can double as a small ax, shovel, or can opener for example.

Finally, if you plan on tucking the knife away in your pocket, backpack, or other carry-along, a folding knife is an excellent choice due to its compact size. However, if you plan on carrying overtly throughout the campsite, a folding knife will provide easy access, faster deployment, and a better option for self-defense.

Fishing

Unlike many other situations where a fixed blade is preferable, a folding knife is the best option for fishing. While this doesn’t completely discount any merits that fixed blades have for fishing, folding knives have several advantages for anglers.

Folding knives often have a clip that helps them retain their position in cargo pockets, pants, or on a belt and are usually lighter than fixed blades. They are often cheaper than fixed-blade knives, and many folding knives have polymer, rubberized, or some textured grip for when things get wet.

For those reasons, folding knives are the better option for angling, in my opinion.

Final Thoughts

The age-old debate on fixed blades or folding knives hasn’t been solved in decades and won’t be solved anytime soon. While folding knives are often smaller, more compact, easy to store, and lighter, they lack the stability and rapid deployment of fixed-blade knives.

Depending on the situation, a fixed-blade knife may serve you better around the campsite or in a deer stand. In contrast, a folding knife may be the most concealable option for everyday carry and an excellent choice for any angler looking to cut line.

No matter what blade you choose, keep it sharp and oiled. If you take care of your life, it will take care of you. As always, good luck, and stay safe out there.

The post Folding vs Fixed Blade Knife (Which to Get When) appeared first on Outdoor Empire.

My first time tightening down my scope rings was done with the mindset of the tighter the better, and crank it until it doesn’t turn anymore.

However, this is the wrong way to look at setting up your scope in its mounts.

Torque is vital because loose rings cause the scope to move after each shot because of recoil. This will cause your optic to lose zero and cause you to miss shots without realizing your scope is off. Alternatively, if the scope rings are too tight, the scope can be damaged or screws stripped, making removal impossible.

However, there is much more to properly torquing down your scope rings than we’ve covered so far. In this article, we go over why properly torquing your scope rings is essential, how to torque down your scope rings properly, and a few helpful tips to keep your scope intact and zeroed.

DISCLOSURE: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Links in this article are affiliate links. If you click on a link we may earn a commission if you make a purchase, at no additional cost to you.

Scope Ring Torque Basics

Before we go any further, it’s important to answer the question: what is torque?

Torque can be defined as the force used to twist an object on an axis. In a screw, the torque is the force applied to turn the screw into the wall. Torque is measured in inch-lbs or feet-lbs.

Because torque is defined as twisting an object around an axis, it can apply to everything from swivel desk chairs to securing scope rings. In this article, we define it as the amount of force used on the bolts or screws to secure a scope ring or base in place.

Although we previously mentioned the consequences of failing to torque your scope rings properly, let’s take a deeper look into what can occur if done incorrectly.

Under Torqued

Several things can occur when you under-torque your scope rings or scope bases.

• A shift in zero
• A loose scope
• Damaged scope
• Repeated recoil damaging a shifting scope

Over time, scope ring screws and bolts that are not checked or Loctited will loosen, and in the most extreme cases, I have seen scopes fall out of the mount and break.

Over Torqued

Because most amateur hunters and shooters assume the tighter the better for scope ring mounts, a common mistake is to over torque your scope mount screws, which can lead to several issues.

• Stripped screws
• Tube bends
• Damaged scopes
• Water and fog entering the scope

Before we delve into torquing down your scope rings, you will need a few things.

Recommended Tools

While a torque wrench is not required to mount your scope correctly, it is the most accurate way to secure it.

Alternatively, you can use other wrenches or bits to tighten it down, but these often lead to over or under-torque.

There are two main styles of torque wrenches.

1. Driver-style torque wrenches: These resemble a screwdriver and can be set to a specific torque. When you use this torque wrench, you can turn it until it reaches the designated torque, at which point it will stop turning.

2. Lever-style torque wrenches: These resemble a socket driver and feature a torque setting gauge. Though these torque wrenches are more common in the automotive industry, smaller bottles can tighten your scope rings or base.

Popular models of torque wrenches used to torque your scope rings down include.

• Vortex Optic Torque Wrench
• Weaver Gunsmithing Torque Wrench
• Wheeler Firearms Accurizing Torque Wrench

When purchasing a torque wrench, there are several things to look for.

• The torque value is inch-lbs
• It’s labeled for gunsmithing
• It’s accurate
• A clear, readable display

While the first two are self-explanatory, accuracy is paramount when torquing down scope rings. Most models of quality scope ring mounts have a designated torque level for you to reach. Exceeding this by even the slightest margin can cause damage to the scope’s integrity.

For the same reason, an easy-to-read display is essential so you know where you are in the torque process. Over or under-tightening due to misreading the display can lead to a loose mount or damaged scope.

Best Scope Ring Torque

There is no one size fits all torque for all scope ring mounts. As I said, most manufacturers explicitly state the intended torque to their scope base and scope rings.

Below is a chart of common torque numbers you will see on common scope rings.

WARNING: This chart is not all-encompassing, and you should check the guidelines for your specific model of firearm, scope, and rings as listed by the manufacturers before starting the mounting process.

Scope Base Torque

Torquing down your scope base is a little different from your scope rings. For bases, you should always follow the recommended torque specs from the firearm manufacturer, not the mount or scope manufacturer.

The type of metal used to make the receiver may require different base torque specs. For example, steel receivers generally demand greater torque than aluminum.

The suggested torque for scope bases is often much higher than that of the scope rings. Additionally, you want to ensure your base is level and evenly spaced for your scope model.

Despite the frequent difference in inch-lbs torque between base and scope rings, the process is similar when mounting a base to your rail or gun.

If you improperly mount your base onto the gun, no amount of scope ring torque will be able to fix what is probably a canted base.

How to Torque Down Your Scope

After seeing all the specifications, tools, and disclaimers about over or under-torquing your scope, you are probably wondering why anyone would do this themselves in the first place.

However, it doesn’t take a gunsmith to torque down your scope correctly. Below, we take the guesswork out of the equation and will walk you through the torquing process.

Step-by-Step Process to Torque Down Your Scope

1. Clear and safe your firearm.
2. Place your rifle in a rest where it is sitting in the same position you would shoot in (trigger down, rail, and barrel up.)

   

3. First-timers must install the scope base onto your rail. Then you must follow the rest of the process to ensure the scope base is ready for use. (For more on this, see our “How to Install a Scope Base” article.)
4. If the scope is inside the rings, with the top halves on, insert the screws into the holes.
5. Most new scope rings come with an L-shaped hex key. Stick the long end of the key into the screw head while holding onto the short end of the hex key.
   
6. Begin to tighten down the screws until you feel resistance. It’s essential not to continue tightening at this point and instead switch to your torque wrench.
   * Note: If each ring has one screw on each side, tighten them evenly, as tightening one side more than the other can pull the scope or rings off center. If there are two screws on each side, tighten them crisscross to avoid pulling the mounts one way or the other.
7. Using your gunsmithing torque wrench, set the torque level to the manufacturer’s prescribed number.
   
8. Tighten the screws down according to the manufacturer’s suggested inch-lbs. (DO NOT immediately Loctite after tightening!)
9. Check all the screws again.

Once you have successfully installed your scope rings, I suggest taking your gun to the range and zeroing it. If you can successfully sight it in without any issues from your base or scope rings, take it home and then use Loctite if you choose.

While this takes up more time, another trip to the range, and spending ammo on sighting in your weapon, it allows you to check your work and correct any errors before making them permanent.

Should You Put Loctite on Scope rings?

Can you? Yes.

Should you? In my humble opinion, no.

Loctite is an anaerobic adhesive that, when applied to screws, hardens into a thermoset plastic on the threads of screws. It drives out the air bubbles and any moisture in the screw hole and solidifies the screw in place.

To be removed, regular Loctite must be treated with chemicals or heated to somewhere in the range of 500°F. Both of these methods can damage a scope badly.

While regular Loctite can help you retain the right torque on your scope rings, there are a few reasons I don’t recommend using it.

• If you mess up the torque, it’s permanent.
• Swapping scopes is complicated and messy.
• If your scope breaks or needs repair, it’s a pain to remove.
• Loctite acts as a lubricant when first applied and can often cause over-torque.

Instead, I recommend regularly checking your torque after every couple of range sessions or after each hunt. If you notice a shift in zero or licenses in the scope, it’s a good idea to grab your torque wrench and give everything a once over.

According to Warne, however, some scope ring bases may benefit from a small amount of blue thread locker in some cases. This may apply in cases where you intend for the bases to remain on the rifle permanently and the screws attaching the bases to the receiver are short and few in number.

Though it is not a good idea if you are using a single piece, direct mount scope rings are made to fit your particular rifle.

Which Loctite to Use for Gun Sights?

If you insist on using it, Loctite’s product is designed for scope rings and bases that avoid much of the mess and are much easier to remove. While I don’t use it, I’ve seen it used and heard zero complaints about it.

Loctite Purple Threadlocker (222) was designed to be used on and around scopes without the complicated removal process. Its non-wicking formula is easy to install, and the screw can be removed with a screwdriver, the same as if you had never applied it.

Blue Loctite may be used for scope bases, though confirming with the firearm and base manufacturers is recommended.

Never use red Loctite on riflescope rings.

Conclusion

If you plan on installing a new scope on your rifle or purchasing a new base and set of scope rings, it’s essential to know about torque.

How it affects your scope, how to use it properly to secure your optic, and what tools you need are all vital information for any shooter or hunter looking for a well-mounted optic.

Ensure you don’t over or under-torque your scope rings, as this can lead to misses and scope damage. Before you torque your scope rings down, purchase a torque wrench and follow the above steps to ensure your scope is on target and not going anywhere.

FAQ

Do I need a torque wrench to set up my scope rings?

While it’s not required, it provides a more precise torque level to ensure you meet the manufacturer’s recommendation. Removing the guesswork on this will not only keep you from having a loose scope but also prevent you from over-torquing and damaging your optic.

Will Loctite keep my torque the same?

Maybe not the same, but it will keep it relatively close. Make sure to use the Loctite Purple Threadlocker (222), which was explicitly designed for scope rings and mounts.

However, I prefer to keep most chemicals and adhesives away from my scopes at all costs, so I check the torque every few range sessions, which usually takes less than a minute to confirm.

Which head or bit do I use to torque down my scope rings?

Some companies will send a bit with the scope mount, but most screws can be torqued with standard bits.

The post Everything You Need to Know About Scope Ring Torque appeared first on Outdoor Empire.

One of the most common questions I get from first-time hunters looking to venture out into the outdoors is: what do I need in my backpack?

From first aid and survival gear to extra rounds, snacks, and clothing, hunting packs provide hunters the ability to bring with them contingencies for emergencies and creature comforts out into the field. While there is a lot of gear touted as “essential,” hunters often overpack their bags and carry extra weight into the woods, much of which they will never use.

In this article, we cover the different setups hunters may use for packs and the necessities of what they should fill them with.

Types of Hunting Packs

In my experience, there are three main kinds of packs that hunters universally use:

• Backpack
• Daypack
• Trek pack

A backpack is usually used when a hunter is heading out for no more than a couple of hours into a tree stand or the field. There is usually a vehicle or structure nearby they are staging from.

A daypack is often utilized when hunters will be out in the field for the duration of the day or even staying overnight. This larger pack provides enough room for the essentials a hunter may need for 24 hours out in the field.

A trek pack or ruck is most often used for over 48 hours in the field, though I have seen hunters survive for over two weeks on everything they brought in this pack.

To dig deeper into each pack, let’s look at when and why you might use each configuration, and what you’ll want to pack in each depending on the situation.

What to Pack in a Hunting Backpack

You are headed to your tree stand. You plan to be there for no more than 3 to 4 hours before heading back to camp or the truck. This setup should be lightweight, comfortable, and easy to take on and off.

Regardless of how long or short you anticipate your hunt will be, the essentials to carry in any hunting pack are:

• Extra camo/layers
• Water
• First aid gear
• Rope

Snacks are optional, but bringing food to your deer stand is not recommended as it can scent up the location and alert deer to your presence.

Hunters will often carry doe estrus and small bags of grain or corn in their bags to bait the trail in or the field they plan on hunting. That, however, depends a lot on where your hunting and whether it’s legal in your area.

Check out our best hunting backpacks guide.

What to Pack for a Full Day Hunt

So you’re headed out to the field and won’t come back till nightfall, maybe you are even camping under the stars. A day pack is designed to carry everything you need to last 24 hours on a lightweight frame.

This pack has two requirements:

• It should be comfortable enough that you can shoulder it all day without chafing or back pain.
• It must fit all the necessities you need in the field while still having room to pack out your trophy kill.

With these packs, I often see hunters carrying:

• food and water
• extra camouflage/layers
• extra ammunition
• survival gear (emergency use), see below
• first aid gear
• spotting scope/rangefinder/binoculars
• flashlight
• skinning knife
• toilet paper
• camping gear
• rope
• firestarter

Additional items I often see carried include a change of socks, digging or cutting tools, and riggers or duct tape for if a piece of equipment fails.

Check out our Pnuma Chisos Backpack Review.

What to Pack for Long or Overnight Hunts

Whether you are spending two days in the backcountry, or two weeks in the wilds of Alaska, a trek pack can carry everything you need and more.

The largest of the three types, this pack has the exact requirements of a day pack, with added durability.

This pack must be able to withstand the elements and hold up under long stretches of rugged terrain under a heavy load. It will most likely get wet from sweat or weather, be picked up and put down multiple times, and be loaded and unloaded in various configurations depending on where you are on your trip.

Items I most often see carried in a trek pack include:

• one or more changes of clothes
• second set of footwear
• extra ammunition
• camping gear
• food
• water
• water purification device
• flashlight
• digging or cutting tool
• moderate/advanced first aid gear
• survival gear
• scentless soap
• scentless deodorant
• toilet paper/wipes
• communication device
• firestarter
• camp stove or cooking device
• rope
• tape
• chafing/ blister remedy
• skinning knife

When venturing out into the wilderness for a long-duration hunt, it’s essential to plan for every contingency in the event of an emergency. Make sure to alert a friend or family member as to your route, destination, and timeline before embarking on what is sure to be an epic hunt.

Before getting into the specifics of the gear, let’s talk about a few other factors that will play a role in what you pack for your hunting trip.

Check out our in-depth KUIU PRO Bag Review.

Seasons

It’s essential to know the weather conditions before you head out on your hunt. While you might think you only need a day pack, winter conditions may dictate that you must pack heavier articles of clothing that may take up more space.

In this case, a trek pack may be better for your 24 hours in the wilderness as it allows you to carry a heavier sleeping bag, tent, and layers.

Alternatively, early fall hunters may swap a daypack for a backpack if the weather is warm and they will not need extra layers.

Game

Depending on the game you are hunting, you may need to pack extra ammunition. Cartridges might get wet, or you may want more rounds than you brought.

Duck hunters, for instance, may wish to bring an extra box of shells if there are a lot of birds in the air.

Deer hunters, on the other hand, may only need the arrows in their quiver or the rounds in their magazine. However, on longer treks, hunters may wish for more ammo and should plan accordingly.

When hunting whitetail, I’ve personally never needed more than five rounds to have a good day, but to each their own.

Weapon

Mostly, I have seen hunters carry a single weapon system, bow, rifle, or shotgun out with them for short-duration hunts.

Although carrying a sidearm is usually unnecessary during these trips, longer duration hunts in the backcountry, where big game is often hunted by even bigger predators, a side arm may come in handy.

However, I strongly suggest that it is carried in an easy-to-access place and not stowed in the bottom of the pack.

Hunting Gear Essentials

If you look closely, there are a few constants throughout each pack. The following are the basic essentials you should pack for any hunt.

Emergency First Aid Gear

When we talk about first aid gear, I’m not referring to Band-Aids and Neosporin. Hunting injuries are usually ugly and frequently severe, requiring immediate attention to ensure the wounded individual reaches a higher level of care.

While Band-Aids and ointments are important to cover up small cuts and treat minor wounds, big game hunters will want something more suited to the injuries they may experience in the field.

This includes:

• A tourniquet
• Gauze
• Pressure dressing

For more advanced care or extended hunts:

• Chest seal
• Nasopharyngeal Airway
• Oral Antibiotics
• Splint
• Moleskin
• Wound cleaner

It’s important to recognize that no matter how minor the injury, being in the outdoors, away from any advanced level of medical care, can exacerbate the injuries. Due to inclement conditions and lack of cleanliness, infection is common in most cuts and puncture wounds outdoors.

Keeping this near the top of your backpack, so it is readily available in an emergency is the best way to prioritize your medical gear. It should be noted that no matter how extensive your medical training, it will not replace a hospital or emergency room in the event of a severe traumatic event.

Survival Gear

Murphy’s law ensures that no matter how well-planned your hunting trip is, something will invariably go wrong. Even the most durable outdoor electronics have batteries die, weather changes, and injuries happen. Enter: survival gear.

There is a lot of mystique surrounding the term survival gear and its meaning. In plain English, it is the minimum amount of necessary equipment needed for you to survive in adverse conditions for 24 hours. It is not a long-term solution but rather a failsafe to ensure your survival until help arrives.

The concept of survival gear is to get yourself out of the situation and/or survive in it until help arrives.

Some of this is situationally dependent, as features such as snow, wind, altitude, and visibility play a major role in survival.

Individuals can survive for over two days without water, but in sub-freezing temperatures and inadequate clothing, you won’t last the night.

Standard survival gear includes:

• Flare
• Thermal blanket
• Map/Compass
• Colorful article of clothing
• Emergency meal
• Fire starting device

While this is a minimal list, it’s important to remember that the gear you bring will continue to serve its purposes, such as a tent providing shelter or a flashlight providing light.

Tent

If you plan on spending more than 24 hours outdoors, it’s recommended you pack a tent. While many weight-conscious outdoorsmen like hammocks, these offer minimal shelter for both you and your gear in adverse weather.

Instead, spend more time researching the right tent for you. Many lightweight options are designed for maximum insulation and weather protection without adding unnecessary pounds to a hunter’s pack.

When selecting a tent for hunting you intend to carry in your pack, consider three things:

• Weight: Is the insulation and protection of this tent worth the weight it adds to my pack?
• Size: Weight isn’t the only factor in your pack. How much space does this tent take up inside your pack that could be used for other essential gear?
• Weather: Will this tent stand up to any adverse weather you experience in the field?

Finding the perfect blend of these three criteria means you have found the ideal tent for your pack.

Flashlight

Whether skinning a trophy kill at the last light or making your way to the stand during pre-dawn twilight, you will never regret having a flashlight or a headlamp. This small illuminator will save you plenty of trouble both around the campsite and on the trail when there isn’t much light.

When selecting a flashlight or headlamp for my backpack or for hunting in general, I ask three questions:

• How much does it weigh?
• How long does it last?
• Is it durable? (Waterproof, shockproof, won’t rust or shatter.)

Food

The field is not the place for a feast. The food brought should be:

• Nutritionally dense
• Lightweight
• Compact packaging

MREs are great examples of this. These dehydrated food packets may not taste the best, but just add water and they provide enough calories for an entire day in an ergonomic package.

Note: MREs are great, but there are plenty of healthier, better-tasting alternatives available online and at large outdoor retailers.

Digging/Cutting Tools

Whether you’re digging out a fire pit, trimming up trees or branches for a line of fire, or cutting up firewood, a digging/cutting tool is an excellent piece of equipment for longer-duration hunts.

Foldable spades with a serrated edge are a great choice. They are easily packed and are great for digging and for cutting small sticks and branches.

Skeletonized axes and hatchets are lightweight and great for firewood and some can be used as a substitute for digging tools.

Rope/String

From hanging and skinning a fresh kill to securing a stand to a tree, rope or string is one of the most critical pieces of equipment a hunter can bring in their pack. Probably the most versatile piece of gear, a rope can be used for repairs, creating structure, skinning, packaging, and even aid in creating blinds.

Conclusion

Hunters will pack various things into their packs because someone told them to or they’ve always done it that way. In reality, what you put in your pack depends on what kind of pack you are using, where you’re going, when you’re going, and for how long.

With no one-size-fits-all, it’s essential to plan for contingencies and have backups and emergency gear. However, ounces equal pounds, and in the field, the lighter your pack, the faster you move.

In summary, do a deep dive into your pack’s contents this season. You might be surprised just how little you need.

FAQ

Q: If I could only bring three things in my pack, what should I bring?

A: This depends on how long and where you are going, but in general: water, medical gear, and a firestarter.

Q: What company makes the best packs?

A: There are plenty of companies, such as Kuiu, Sitka, Eberlestock, Badlands, Alps Outdoors, and Mystery Ranch. I focus less on the brand name and more on what it provides me in the field.

Q: How do I know which pack is right for me?

A: Time and Weather. The colder it is, and the longer you are out there, the larger the bag you need.

The post Hunting Pack Essentials: Gear to Carry Based on Pack Type appeared first on Outdoor Empire.

However, while many people use coolers weekly or daily, they probably don’t know how a “large plastic tub” keeps their beverages or food at the right temperature.

Coolers keep your items cold via air seals and insulation, which combat two major methods of heat transfer. A cooler seals off items from the outside air, which prevents convection from occurring. The ice chest’s insulation prevents conduction by creating layers between the items and external heat sources.

This article covers how a cooler keeps things cold, what coolers are made of, the science of how it all works, and a few other helpful bits to help you understand your cooler better.

How Does a Cooler Work?

A cooler is a portable, insulated container to maintain temperature and freshness for perishable items. Food, drinks, or other perishable items are usually placed inside the container with ice, often in a bag or block, and a top seals the container from outside factors like the sun or temperature.

To understand how a cooler keeps things cool, there are two terms about temperature transfer that are important to understand: convection and conduction.

Convection

Convection is the movement of air throughout a medium, and since warm air cannot flow through a cooler when it is closed, the cooler stays the temperature of the items placed inside it. This is why ice stays frozen for hours or days at a time, depending on the outside temperature and quality of the cooler seal.

The reason coolers are made airtight or have aggressive seals are to prevent the transfer of heat via convection. The better the seal, the more cool or warm air (depending on the cooler’s contents) is retained and not swapped with exterior air.

Additionally, more outside air introduced to the cooler means more energy is required to bring it to the core temperature of the cooler. Essentially, investing in quality seals and airtight coolers ensures your food or beverages retain their intended temperature for longer.

Conduction

Conduction is the other method of energy or heat transfer. This is the transfer of heat across a substance. For instance, if the sun is beating down hard on a cooler, the core temperature of the cooler itself will rise due to the heat transferred through the wall of the cooler. However, coolers with better insulation or higher-quality materials will have lower conduction levels.

Because insulation plays such a significant factor in the cooler’s level of conduction, it’s essential to understand the different kinds used in a cooler.

Recommended Reading: Best Coolers for Ice Retention

Factors That Affect Your Cooler

There are a variety of factors that affect how successful your cooler is at keeping your items at the proper temperature.

• What is the airtightness of your cooler?
• What is the wall thickness of your cooler?
• Is your lid filled or hollow?
• Is the cooler wall filled or hollow?

Each of these plays a major role in keeping the interior of your cooler at the desired temperature.

How Insulation Works

Various insulators are used in ice chests. Some of the most common include fiberglass, rock wool, cellulose, styrofoam, polystyrene, and polyurethane.

Some insulators, such as styrofoam, are budget friendly but have a high conduction level and minimal insulation. Others, like the more expensive polyurethane foam, are far denser and have a low conduction level, making them both heavier and better at long-term insulating items.

While you can do independent research on your specific cooler to determine its conduction level, we compiled a list of insulators to help make your cooler shopping a little easier.

Styrofoam: The lightest and cheapest insulation, styrofoam is highly conductive and prone to breaking.

Polyurethane Foam: Used in higher-end coolers, this pressure-injected foam is durable and provides excellent insulation due to its low conduction level.

Polyethylene Foam: Usually used with soft shell coolers, it’s cheaper than polyurethane insulation but more durable than styrofoam, making it a middle-of-the-road insulator.

Vacuum Insulation: Employed by high-end cooler makers like Yeti, this vacuum between layers in the cooler is effective at combating conduction. With the top seal of the cooler lid, this is the highest level of insulation you can find in a cooler on the market today.

What are Coolers Made of?

Various materials are used to make these modern marvels, depending on the kind of cooler. Soft coolers are usually made from canvas, cotton, polyester, nylon, and vinyl, while hard coolers often incorporate Styrofoam, polypropylene, metal, and other plastic variants.

Here are a few of the more commonly used materials, along with their pros and cons.

Metal: Usually stainless steel or aluminum, these coolers are heavier but incredibly durable and have excellent insulation.

Plastic: Made from various rugged plastics, these ice chests or coolers usually come with wheels or carrying handles and are best suited for outdoor events where damage may occur to the cooler.

Canvas: These low-profile, durable fabric coolers are excellent for single-person meals and can withstand various conditions, from days on the water to work luncheons.

Cotton: This incredibly lightweight fabric is moisture-resistant and a budget-friendly option for picnic-loving persons. However, this insulation is usually weak and isn’t great for all-day affairs.

Vinyl: The most budget-friendly of all the coolers, the vinyl coolers are a great choice if you’re not worried about having this cooler for years to come. The insulation varies by cost, but it’s hard to beat these lightweight containers for the price.

Hollow Lids vs. Filled Lids

Many of the more inexpensive coolers come with hollow lids. This is usually due to the manufacturer attempting to cut costs or weight from a cooler, even though it results in the loss of the insulation properties of the cooler. While many people focus on the insulation placed in the walls of a cooler, it’s essential to take stock of what the lid of your cooler is made of.

The benefit of having a hollow lid on your cooler is that it is both lighter and usually cheaper. Great for the ballfield or midday picnic, these coolers are budget-friendly and can keep your items cool for a short time.

However, long-duration excursions such as fishing trips, camping, or even keeping items insulated when the power goes out mean proper insulation on the top of your cooler. While this will add to the cost and make the cooler heavier, keeping your things insulated is worth every penny.

If you’re looking to upgrade your cooler without purchasing a new one, you can use a drill to make a hole in the cooler lid and inject a spray foam of your choice into the lid for added insulation.

Note: Be careful when injecting foam into the lid of a cooler, as it can cause the plastic or polymer frame to warp as the foam expands. Inject small amounts until the foam is set for proper installation.

FAQs

Here are a few frequently asked questions about coolers.

Does the thickness of my cooler’s wall matter?

Yes and no. While the thickness does increase the weight and distance between outside heat sources, it doesn’t always denote more insulation. A 3-inch thick styrofoam cooler will still be more conductive (and thus heat up faster) than a 2-inch thick cooler with vacuum insulation. Pay more attention to the insulation than the wall thickness.

What is the best insulation for my cooler?

This depends on both budget and type of cooler. For soft skin coolers, the Polyethylene foam will do the job and won’t break the bank. Polyurethane Foam is the most common insulator for hard shell coolers and is not nearly as expensive as vacuum insulation.

How do I maintain my cooler long-term?

Check the manufacturer’s specifications on how to clean your cooler, as some chemicals may destroy the seals or finish in the cooler’s interior. Soap and water are always safe, and never store the cooler while it is still wet, as this can lead to mold and rot.

Can you upgrade to a cheap cooler at home?

Yes. However, DIY projects like this can damage the integrity of the cooler. Adding insulation to walls or lids, upgrading the seals, and painting the cooler are great ways to upgrade your budget cooler, but investing in a higher-end cooler may be better long term.

The post This is How a Cooler Keeps Things Cold appeared first on Outdoor Empire.

With so many styles, brands, lengths, and metals to choose from, it can be difficult for novice hunters looking to purchase their first hunting knife to know which blade is best for them.

If you’re looking for a hunting knife that is durable, safe, and multipurpose, you’ll want a 4″ steel fixed blade. The style of knife is a personal preference but you can’t go wrong with a fixed drop-point blade knife. This will provide you with a great multitool that will last for years to come.

With that in mind, let’s look at the types of hunting knives out there and which one is right for you.

Watch our full guide on how to choose a hunting knife on YouTube!

Hunting Knife Blade Types

Fixed-Blade

A fixed-blade knife means that the metal from the blade runs through the handle and is not replaceable or foldable. This leads to increased sturdiness but a longer overall length.

Folding Blade

A folding blade knife has a blade that folds into the handle. Folding knives have a mechanism that locks the blade in the upright position when open but can be closed, making them easier to store. These knives often lack the sturdiness of a fixed blade but have a smaller overall profile when closed.

Interchangeable Blade

This type of knife features a universal handle with a mechanism that locks various blades in place, which can easily be swapped out. From personal experience, this knife lacks the sturdiness of a fixed blade and requires you to carry several blades, which outweighs its interchangeable blade system.

Hunting Knife Blade Metals

When looking at the metal makeup of your blade, it’s important to consider two things:

• Ability to maintain an edge
• Corrosion resistance

If you plan to utilize your hunting knife often, the blade will begin to dull with use. Every time it comes into contact with blood and water (sweat, humidity, rain, snow) increases the chance of rust. Your knife’s ability to withstand these factors will depend on the metal it’s made from.

Carbon Steel

The lower levels of chromium in carbon steel make it less resistant to rust. However, carbon steel is far harder than stainless steel, providing a sharper blade and retaining its edge for longer.

Stainless Steel

Stainless steel does a better job of corrosion resistance. Its higher levels of chromium prevent oxidation of the blade and make it more resistant to flaking and rust. However, it tends to dull faster than carbon steel.

There are a variety of alloys for both kinds of steel, each with its pros and cons. Before purchasing your knife, Google its alloy to check if it’s the right one for you.

Related: 10 Different Uses for Your Hunting Knife

Hunting Knife Styles

Here are a few of the more popular styles of hunting knives on the market.

Buck Knife

Buck Knives is a popular brand who pioneered the folding lock-blade style hunting knife. Their original design has become so popular that people refer to this general design of knife as a buck knife, even when made by other manufacturers. One of the most well-rounded hunting knives, a buck knife usually comes with a wooden or G10 (resin based composite material) handle. Between 3″ to 7″ in length, this blade can skin and gut a deer as easily as it can cut rope or shave wood.

Bowie

Created by Jim Bowie, who died defending the Alamo, this is a classic, fixed-blade hunting knife frequently kept in a sheath. Set in a bone handle, the blade commonly measures between 4″ to 12″ and can easily be used for gutting a deer.

Gutting Knife

Usually a fixed-blade knife, this style has a blade on one side and a gut hook on the backside. Most often set into a polymer or hard plastic handle, the blades generally sit between 2″ to 5″ in length.

Drop Point

An excellent knife for beginners, drop point knives have long, thin blades that make incisions on big game clean and precise. With either a polymer or wooden handle, these come in both folding and fixed configurations at an average length between 3″ and 8.”

Skinning Knife

A knife designed to skin big game, it comes in both folding and fixed configurations, with a razor-sharp, thin blade. The average length of these blades is usually between 2″ to 6″.

What Kind of Hunting Knife to Get

While different hunters will have different opinions, here is my recommendation based on my experience.

Blade Type: Fixed blade is the way to go. Folding knives may have a smaller overall profile, but under hard use, I’ve seen locking mechanisms fail or blades become loose, leading to injury or mangled cuts. Interchangeable blades aren’t recommended as they lack the stability of fixed blades and the profile of folding knives.

Metal: I recommend carbon steel for all hunting knives for the sharpness you can get from the steel and the edge retention. While stainless steel may be more corrosion resistant, if you take care of your knife (wash, scrub, and oil), it will take care of you.

Style: Many of these blades can be a good choice, but with a hunting knife being a multi-utility tool, hunters need a knife that can do it all. I recommend a 4″ – 5″ fixed blade, carbon steel knife. If you can find one with a G10 handle over wood, that is the complete package of hunting knives.

Hunting Knife FAQs

Where can I find a good hunting knife?

Many outdoor stores carry quality hunting knives. Online, Montana Knife Company, Half Face Blades, Winkler Knives, Buck Knives, Gerber, and Benchmade all make quality blades.

What is the best length for a hunting knife?

4″ – 5″ is the optimal length for a quality hunting knife. Any longer, and it becomes heavier and you lose dexterity.

Does the stability of a fixed blade outweigh the size of a folding knife?

I will recommend the quality of a fixed blade over the smaller size of a folding knife every time. A 4″ – 5″ fixed blade is still easily packable in a sheath and will not experience mechanical malfunctions under adverse conditions in the field.

How much does a good hunting knife cost?

This depends on your definition of “good.”

Top-of-the-line hunting knife: $250-$350
Midline hunting knife: $80-120
Budget hunting knife: $35-$60

Before purchasing your first hunting knife, research the brand, model, and steel alloy to ensure you get the best cut for your buck.

The post What Type of Knife is Best for Hunting? (Handles & Styles) appeared first on Outdoor Empire.

The question most often asked is: Can you accurately use a scope to range a target?

You CAN use only your scope to accurately range a target. Scopes usually have MOA or MRAD markings which are units of measurement that represent angle. Using a formula, hunters can place accurate shots on target out to 800 yards by plugging in the target size in inches and the target size in MOA or MRAD, depending on your scope.

This article covers how to accurately range your target with your scope and a few factors you should consider when using this method of determining distance.

Why Range Finding is Important

No matter what weapon system you use when hunting, gravity strongly affects the bullet trajectory.

Even the beloved, flat shooting 6.5 Creedmoor drops nearly 55 inches at 500 yards.

For hunters who don’t know how to or can’t determine the distance to target, this can mean missing the game entirely or nonfatally wounding an animal, causing unnecessary pain and suffering.

I’ve seen hunters guess at the distance to target or not factor it in, causing them to shoot both high and low, and miss a big trophy game at distances from 200-600 yards. To avoid this, hunters can purchase a rangefinder, use their scope, or use other methods

Related: How to Range Without a Rangefinder

How to Calculate Distance with Your Scope

Using your scope to determine the distance to target requires some simple math and a good scope. A good scope has hash marks (MOA/MRAD) etched into it, which allow you to range your target accurately.

Using this information and the height of your target, you can quickly come up with a solution that gives you a close approximation of distance and what your holdover should be.

The Formula

There are two formulas used to determine distance through the scope.

The first is the MOA (Minute of Angle) Formula:

Target Size (Inches) X 95.5
______________________  = Distance to Target
Target Size in MOA

The second is the MRAD (Milliradian) Formula:

Target Size(Inches) X 27.77
______________________  = Distance to Target
Target Size in MRAD

Here are two examples of the equation.

How to Range with an MOA Scope

16 inches is a good size from backbone to belly on a Whitetail where I come from. Through your scope, that area is covered by 5 MOA marks because of the reticle.

Your equation should go as follows:

(16×95.5)
________  =  ?
5

If you’ve done your calculations correctly, the distance to the target should be about 305.6 yards.

How to Range with an MIL Scope

For the same animal, let’s use the MRAD formula.

The deer measures 16 inches from belly to backbone and covers 1.5 Mil in your scope reticle.

(16×27.77)
_________  =  ?
1.5

If you did your math, it chalks up to about 296.21 yards.

Personal Experience

I used the MOA formula when shooting a large Whitetail in Mississippi with a Remington .30-06 at about 106 yards.

Alone at 7:00 am on a chilly December morning with the wind so cold I regretted not wearing a second pair of long johns, I heard the unmistakable thundering of hooves over the chattering of my teeth.

Buck fever took over, and as the deer rushed past my ground blind on the side of a dike overlooking the farm pond, I took point-blank aim, squeezed the trigger, and missed…twice.

Cursing myself for letting adrenaline get the best of me, I watched in shock as the deer sprinted to the levee’s end and slowed to a walk after hitting the food plot to my left. Whether he thought it was thunder or was just not as intellectually gifted as another whitetail, I’m not one to look a gift horse in the mouth.

He was a big one. 16 inches was my guess, and it covered over 12 MOA. ( I shouldn’t have needed the formula at this distance, but I wanted to confirm my shot.)

I did the quick math ( I was a lot better at mental arithmetic back then), put the reticle behind his right shoulder, slightly higher than the center, and fired.

He dropped like he had been struck by lightning. I ran over, saw that he was still breathing, and put a security round in him to finish the job.

Had I not used the equation, I probably could have made the shot. But using that method definitely helped me put my bullet where it needed to go and gave me the confidence I lacked from my two previous misses.

Accurately Estimating Animal Size

Estimating the size of an animal can be difficult, and it can have major implications on your shot if guessed incorrectly.

Plenty of outdoor publications provide general ballpark size estimates for various species of big game. It’s also recommended that you check your local fish and game website, which often provides an accurate list of sizes compiled by biologists to help you guess.

However, the two most accurate ways to determine an animal’s size are practice and recording the size of the game you’ve killed.

You can practice by guessing at objects in your backyard, in the woods, or on the street and then measuring them to determine how far off you were. With a bit of practice, you can get your approximations pretty close, allowing you to make an educated guess out in the field.

Recording the size of the game you killed can give you an idea of what to expect from other game in the region. If your area is known for trophy Whitetail or Mulies, a fluctuation of an inch up or down depending on how the deer looks is not a bad idea.

You may be asking yourself, does an inch make a major difference when shooting at a distance?

The answer is more surprising than you might think. For instance, let’s say you’re taking a shot at a deer that covers 4 MOA. The deer is 16 inches, but you guess 17.

(17×95.5)
________  =  A little over 400 yards
4 MOA

Not a bad shot.

Let’s look at the difference using the actual size of 16 inches.

(16×95.5)
________  =  386yards
4 MOA

Close distances will cause you to be off between 10-20 yards, but at 2.5 MOA, that’s over a 40-yard difference.

That’s why it’s essential to guess sizes accurately when calculating distance with your scope.

A Good Scope

While sticking to a budget is essential, don’t be cheap. Buy a good scope. Investing in a critical piece of hardware like a riflescope can help you accurately range your targets.

While hunters go back and forth on the pros and cons of MRAD vs. MOA, it’s more important to invest in a scope that works best for you.

If you find you can do the math better with one or like how it looks through the scope better, stick with that one.

When purchasing a scope you may use to range targets, it’s important to factor in three things:

1. Scope clarity
2. Hash mark definition
3. Scope power

There are plenty of quality scopes at an affordable price, but don’t let the price tag be your deciding factor. Vortex, Nightforce, Leupold, and Zeiss all make quality scopes in a wide price range.

Wind

Many people think the wind is something you lick your finger for, feel the breeze, and can tell which way the wind is blowing. Most hunters don’t consider that the wind can be different from your position at the target with longer shots.

This problem can be solved with a high-end laser range finder and/or a ballistic calculator. Or you could just get closer to the animal; your choice.

Get a Rangefinder

Before delving into using your scope to determine the range, hunters must note that this method is an approximation and not exact science.

Using a rangefinder, you can determine the target’s precise distance without doing extra math or guessing at a target size.

Recommended: Best Rangefinders for Hunting

If money is an issue, budget rangefinders start at a little over $100 and are easily stowed in a pack or jacket during a backcountry hunt. These lightweight pieces of gear are worth their weight in gold, so serious hunters should look into purchasing one before heading out into the woods or backcountry in pursuit of big game.

Conclusion

Hunters can accurately range prey using a scope and some simple math. However, it should be noted that this does involve some guessing and the distance is often a close approximation.

If you’re like me and don’t want to pull out the phone or scratch paper, invest in a good rangefinder and save yourself a headache while getting an accurate distance on your next big game trophy.

The post How to Range a Distance with Only Your Riflescope appeared first on Outdoor Empire.

For many first-time hunters, selecting the right hunting knife can be difficult. With so many “essential features” advertised, it can be challenging to know what you actually need from your blade.

One of the more common questions asked is, “does my hunting knife need to have a gut hook?”

Because most of the tasks required from a hunting knife can be done without a gut hook, it’s not necessary to have one on your hunting knife. In fact, the gut hook can actually get in the way of many tasks, leading to extra cuts and snags. A better option is to have your primary hunting knife without a gut hook. You could then have an additional backup knife with a gut hook for when you successfully harvest an animal.

However, before we dismiss the gut hook entirely, it is an incredibly effective tool and has its place. Just not on your hunting knife.

Let’s dive deeper into what a gut hook is and how you will use it most often.

Check out our YouTube video on the topic!

What is the gut hook on a hunting knife for?

A gut hook is a specialized feature usually on the back of the knife used for opening skin on the belly or abdomen of deer or other big game.

How it works

Earning its name from its hook-like design, you can use the gut hook in the following ways:

• When the deer is hung upside down, an incision running from midway up one of the legs down to the sternum is made with a corresponding incision running from the other leg making a Y-shaped cut down the length of the abdomen.
• An incision is made at the base of the neck and runs down to the back of two legs forming an upside-down Y.

The purpose of a gut hook is to:

• Create a shallow incision on the deer, usually on the abdomen, to peel back the skin without rupturing any internal organs.
• Open the deer’s abdomen up and remove the organs.

However, in the field, you may also use it for additional tasks, such as:

• Cutting strips in cloth
• Marking trees
• Moving meat on the grill (clean it before doing this.)
• Picking up hot cooking pot lids
• Cracking a cold one

Pros of Gut Hooks

Gut hooks are a great, purpose-driven tool to have in the field. Not only do they make skinning a deer vertically easier, but they can be used for many other tasks listed above.

If the deerskin is tensioned from being suspended by its hindquarters or head, a good gut hook cuts through the skin like a hot knife through butter.

Cons of Gut Hooks

Your hunting knife is meant to be a safe blend of blade, tool, and grip. It shouldn’t slip in your grasp when around water or blood or have other snags or points that make it more dangerous to use during camp or field tasks.

When using a gut hook, the face of the primary blade is facing toward you, and when using the main blade, the gut hook is facing you. This isn’t ideal.

The number one rule of knife safety we were taught in Boy Scouts was to never cut toward yourself or others. That rule is broken with the gut hook, which can lead to some pretty serious injuries.

Are gut hooks worth it?

A gut hook is an excellent tool for a singular task. That task is skinning and gutting a deer, not the usual camp or field functions that are often required of a hunting knife.

My recommendation is to have both a good hunting knife and a second knife with a gut hook.

When using a hunting knife, you should be able to apply leverage to the back of the blade without fear of cuts or snags. Think of it as the multi-tool of your setup, capable of doing everything you need, including skinning if required.

The gut hook then becomes something you stow in your pack, on your 4-wheeler, or in your truck for when you emerge victorious from the woods. You can unsheath it, skin and gut your kill and then return it to its sheath after cleaning; a job well done.

FAQs

Do I need a gut hook for deer?

You can gut and skin a deer with most knives that are sharp enough to pierce its hide. That said, a gut hook does make the process easier and the cuts cleaner. I keep mine stored on the 4-wheeler or in my pack until it’s time to use.

Can you use a gut hook for more than cleaning deer?

A gut hook is great for much more than just cleaning a deer. It often is used for cutting twine, small ropes, and even seatbelts in emergencies. I also may have used it to crack a celebratory cold one during skinning.

Should I have a fixed blade or a folding gut hook?

A fixed blade is a better option with a gut hook than a folding gut hook. A folding gut hook means the blade face is in the handle, and the hook is facing outwards when stowed. I owned a folding gut hook for five minutes until it caught the inside of the pocket of my camouflage pants and filleted it open.

Never again.

Can I sharpen my gut hook?

You can sharpen your gut hook, though I have found this much harder than sharpening a regular blade. I recommend seeking out a bladesmith or sending it back to the manufacturer to have it done professionally.

The post Should a Hunting Knife Have a Gut Hook (Pros and Cons) appeared first on Outdoor Empire.

That assumption is wrong.

A rangefinder helps hunters by providing accurate distances to their target. Knowing your distance can boost confidence in your shot. Alternatively, it can let you know if you need to be closer before shooting. By removing the “guesstimation” part of your shooting process, a range finder gives you the accurate distance to the target.

Additionally, some more expensive models provide horizontal distance and wind readings down range.

However, there is more to rangefinders than this rudimentary explanation, and below, we cover who should use them, when to use them, and a few recommendations.

Who needs a range finder?

This ties into the next section, but bow and rifle hunters and long-distance shooters should invest in a range finder.

Bow Hunters

For bow hunters, there are different pins on your sight for corresponding distances. Though it is possible to eyeball at closer ranges, knowing the exact distance to your target can help you select the correct pin and make an accurate shot.

Rifle Hunters

Rifle hunting is similar. While hunters may have different zeros for their scope (point of aim/point of impact) at 36 yards, 50 yards, or 100 yards, many times shots are taken for big game far past the zero.

Though it is possible to range find using your scope (see the corresponding article), using a rangefinder is the most effective and accurate way to determine an exact distance to factor into your shooting.

As a rifle hunter shooting out to the distance, a range finder takes the guesswork out of target distances, making it easier to adjust the scope.

When to use a rangefinder?

Anytime you are shooting an unknown distance, whether with a bow or rifle, a rangefinder is an invaluable tool.

Good rangefinders can help you range and identify targets that exceed where you are comfortable shooting. This can help prevent your bullet from falling short.

Basic Rangefinder Features

At a minimum, your rangefinder should be able to accurately read the distance from you to the target.

More expensive models can include:

• Angel compensation, which is the ability to determine the horizontal distance from you to the target. This plays a major role when shooting in steep or mountainous terrain.
• Larger objective lenses or higher-end glass optics.
• Better ruggedization to protect it from the elements.
• Additional in-display, ballistic-compensated measurements.
• Bluetooth for connectivity with ballistics apps on smartphones or special riflescopes.
• Additional sensors, such as thermometers and barometers.
• Reading wind using a laser to detect dust in order to determine wind speeds.

Our Rangefinder Recommendations

Upgrade Pick: Maven RF.1
Best for the Money: Leupold RX-1400i
Budget Pick: AOFAR HX-1200T (affiliate link, FYI)

The post This is When You Need a Rangefinder for Hunting appeared first on Outdoor Empire.

Others have said because it is unable to compete with the variety of lightweight alternatives on the market, the bipod has no place on a hunter’s rifle.

So, should you use a bipod for hunting or shooting?

The argument that a bipod is outdated is laughably naive at best and, at worst, a flat-out lie. The bipod is an excellent addition to any long-range shooter’s setup. It often stays affixed to the rifle’s chassis, making for easy setup and breakdown.

However, there is more to this discussion than whether a bipod is outdated. In this article, we cover when and why you should use a bipod and some pros and cons.

Is a bipod necessary?

Before delving further into this topic, we must answer this question: What does a bipod do?

A bipod is a two-legged, stabilizing platform placed beneath a gun. This setup elevates the rifle’s front end while securing it in place, allowing the shooter to manipulate the stock and trigger with the front in a fixed location.

So we know what a bipod’s intended use is, let’s talk about its practical application.

The human body has both a pulse and electrical signals running through the nerves and into its muscle fibers. No matter how steady you think you are, there will always be slight movement due to both factors.

Conventionally holding a rifle requires the dominant hand to grasp just behind the trigger, with the index finger used to pull it. The non-dominant hand then grips closer to the muzzle to support and help aim the rifle. Even the best shooters will experience tremors, primarily due to the support hand.

A bipod removes the need for the support hand for kneeling, seated, or prone shooters by propping the chassis up with two legs.

So while it’s not absolutely necessary to shooting a gun, a bipod definitely eliminates some mitigating factors and could make your shot more accurate.

Is a bipod good for sighting in a rifle?

When sighting in your rifle, you want the steadiest platform to place your weapon system on to confirm your zero (point of aim/point of impact). Using a bipod removes the tremor of your support hand, instead focusing on aligning your reticle onto the target and getting a good trigger squeeze.

Consider placing a bag rest beneath the stock to get an even more unbiased zero for a more stable platform.

Do I need a bipod when target shooting?

Whether you are shooting in a competition or recreationally practicing, a bipod can be a great addition to your rifle. In addition to the stability it provides to your shooting platform, many bipods have a swivel feature.

This keeps your rifle anchored in one location while allowing you to acquire targets quickly on a stable platform.

So while “need” may be a strong word, I definitely think you’ll want a bipod when you’re at the range or target shooting in the hills.

Do hunters use bipods?

A bipod truly shines through when used in a hunting capacity.

The stable shooting platform, lateral target acquisition from a fixed location, and portability are all significant assets to have. The bipod is the master of providing a flat shooting platform on uneven ground.

Personally, I have yet to find a flat piece of ground that provides sufficient cover and concealment when hunting. It’s always a downed tree rotting away or the crest of some uneven hill.

Laying your bolt gun or semi-auto on the ground causes you to lose the frontal elevation. You also risk a malfunction on a follow-up shot, not to mention needlessly dirtying your gun.

Instead, many bipods have adjustable legs and can be lengthened or shortened to create a level shooting position. This gives you every advantage when taking that long shot on a trophy animal.

A First-Hand Example

Shooting from a raised levee overlooking a farm pond and food plot wasn’t my first choice. But with the sun setting behind me and tall weeds concealing my hide site in the clay mound, it was as good as I could get. It was the price I paid for having just showered and swapped out my college campus attire for camo and backwoods.

A 200-yard freehand shot to the end of the food plot wasn’t impossible on a deer-sized target. But with the bipod my shooting buddy had attached to the rifle, my crosshairs showed no sign of their usual tremor.

The deer that walked out was a skinny doe, and something about the way she kept checking the treeline stopped me from pushing the safety of my .30-06 all the way red.

I watched the yearling tentatively step from the shadows and sighed. I would keep an eye on the pair under a steady scope until sunset, glad I hadn’t pulled the trigger. Even with a zero for the day, I was impressed with the new bipod my shooting partner had installed on the gun.

When Not to Use a Bipod

Many hunters prefer to hunt without a bipod, and that’s fine. Bipods work best shooting from a prone position or while sitting with a big rock or flat surface in front of you while sitting. Some hunters don’t want to have to lay down or they feel confident enough bracing against a rock or tree, or shooting while sitting with their elbows braced against their knees.

At times, shooting prone isn’t an option because the grass and brush are too high so you can’t even see over it, even with a bipod.

Whitetail deer hunting is often done in relatively close quarters in thick forested areas or pinch points next to farm fields. This is a time when a bipod is likely optional. When still hunting or sitting stationary and taking shots within 200 yards or less, you can get away without a bipod. If you hunt from a tree stand, a bipod is unnecessary and may even be cumbersome. You can brace against a crossbar.

One alternative to a bipod while hunting is shooting sticks. These lightweight bipod alternatives are not fixed to the gun, but can be pulled out of your hunting pack and used as needed. They are also available in tall lengths that stabilize a rifle for a standing shot.

Perhaps the most common of all gun stabilizers is a hunting pack. Laid down flat it makes a great prone shot platform and stood upright it works for sitting or kneeling shots. This is something you typically have with you anyway on a hunt, which makes it perhaps the most stable alternative to a bipod you can have on a hunt.

Pros of Using a Bipod

• Stable shooting platform
• Easy lateral target transitions without changing positions
• Great for rough terrain
• Usually fixed to the gun
• Adjustable

Cons of Using a Bipod

• Added weight to the gun
• Can get in the way of free-hand shots
• Potential for malfunction in the field due to water, rust, or dirt
• Not as stable as a tripod

Conclusion

If you don’t mind the extra weight to the front of your gun or the lack of space to grip it, a bipod is a solid investment for your rifle.

The stability it provides and the elevation to the front of the gun remove much of the natural tremors that affect shots while allowing for smooth lateral transitions from target to target.

Before purchasing a bipod, try one out at your local range and see if it makes a difference in your shooting.

FAQs

Will a bipod make me a better shooter?

A bipod won’t make you a better shooter per se, but it will remove variables from your shooting so that you can focus on little things like trigger pull and breathing.

What is the difference between a bipod and a tripod?

A bipod has two legs and is usually attached to the gun. A tripod has three legs and is often carried separately from the gun.

How do I know if I need a bipod for my gun?

Whether or not you use a bipod is a personal choice, but if you want more stability in your shots, consider buying a bipod.

The post Should You Use a Bipod for Shooting? For Hunting? appeared first on Outdoor Empire.